Should I buy it? (81 xs11)

[CRXSi90]

It is in kind of rough shape...It does have a faring, windshield, saddle bags, and a trunk bag, but the paint on them is definately in poor shape.

It runs kind of rough...very little power below 3000 rpm or so...it takes off @ about 4k, though. I'm thinking this is a vaccum boot problem...make sense? With the boots being 100+ each, that is a strong negotiating point.

It pops on deacceleration.

The flanges connecting the carbs to the engine look tacky...black electrical tape is wrapped around them tied up with a zip tie. ugh

The oil needs to be changed, and I fear it hasn't been maintained very well.

After I took it for a ride today, I opened the oil cap thingy and a very small amount of steam came out. So what if there is a little moisture...I guess that happens sitting over winter.

It sounds pretty bad too...like a poor running harley. Are they supposed to sound like that, or more like the refined sportbikes of today. I thought the later.

The front forks would pretty much compress all the way when I squeezed the brakes. How far to the tripple clamp are they supposed to be? When riding, I'd say there was about 5" of tube showing, and shrinking to about 1 while on the brakes.

The brakes probably need work...a little sticky. Maybe with some cleaning of the brake parts and a little use, it would be OK.

It has a little over 30,000 miles on it.

Anything else I should check?

I'll have pictures later tonight. Thanks!

[tab1324]

how much?

You din't mention how much. If it's cheap, it's definately worth it. If you want to put in the wrench time... That it runs is a good sign. Carb boots may be required if you can determine there is definately a vacuum leak at them. Should cost you about $100 for the set of 4 - check ebay. A good carb cleaning may cure the problems with little power under 3K rpm. The mid range jets might be plugged. If it sounds like a harley then it's probably not running on all 4 cylinders. Have you checked the plugs to make sure there all firing?

Let us know what you decide.

Tom B.

[CRXSi90]

Hey, thanks for responding.

The first time I saw the ad, it was for $700, but then down to $500 when he discovered it needed a clutch cable. He replaced it, but I'm guessing his asking price is still @ $500. Since not many people have come to look at it, he might take less. I think I'll offer $350...and go up to $400 if necessary. Does that sound good, or should I be aiming a lot lower?

You're right, I doubt he cleaned the carbs. He said he has been busy lately, with little time to mess with it. He said he did check the plugs, though, and it needs a set. He said they were sparking to the outside of the plug instead of the electrode. No problem, do you think that is what is the matter?

I sure can clean carbs...I've had 3 successes this spring (2 dirtbikes and a twin road one).

I've read about some tricks for fixing the carb boots too...sounds like it would be worth a shot anyway.

Thanks again.

One more question...how much is insuracne for these. I'm 17, but I used Progressive's online quote and came up with $181/year. Not too bad if you ask me. My parents have State Farm, so I'll probably be stuck with them, though.

Kevin

Pictures in a few minutes...

[skids]

Re: how much?

If she takes off and runs smooth at higher rpms, I say the engine is in good shape. Progressive springs for the forks should fix the diving. Electrical tape around the intake manifold boots??? Well, you know that they will cook that stuff off...get some new boots. Carb pilot jets are plugged or else the pick-up wires need repaired. No big deal if you like working on bikes. One weekend, if you take your time, and you will have all of that fixed. About the paint, I recommend against rattlecan laquer. It looks good for a while, but gas will kill it.

Originally posted by tab1324


Tom B.

[rneal55555]

For $500 I'd go for it Paid over a $1000 for mine but ther was a little ebay testosterone action going on. Mine had been painted although it could have been a better job it was good paint but has a fair amount of orange peel PO polished some of this out on the top of the tank and the side covers but I have to finish the rest. Had to clean the carbs and I will have to por 15 or cream the tank sooner or later. need a rear tire soon as well and carb boots need some attention to. Spary WD 40 on them if the idle changes they are leaking mine aren't yet but its just a matter of time. If you enjoy working on bikes and have some cash for the things you'll discover after you get it home certainly go for it. But if you have to scrape the $500 together You might want to wait Save some more cash and if it's still available offer hime 400 or just save up some more money and go for one of the ones on the classifieds here there are some nice looking xs's on there. Other thing is do you really want the fairings and bags or would you be happier with a plain one. Just my 2 cents.

[CRXSi90]

Here are some pictures...still worth ~$500?

I'm not a major motorcycle mechanic, but if there is something that needs to be done, I can usually manage. Mostly the stuff I've worked with was new/in good condition.

2 questions before the pictures:

How hard are these things to pick up when dropped?

The handle bars felt kind of funny...strange wrist contortions....are there good alternative handle bars?

Here are the pictures. I suppose you can probably tell less from looking than just riding the thing, but here they are. Tell me if you think it is worth about $500.

Thanks for taking the time, guys. I don't have many motorcycle-inclined people around really, so your words are much appreciated.

Kevin

[foxjohnc]

Cannot see the pics, all I see are the dreaded red X's.

[CRXSi90]

darn, thanks for telling me...

I guess imagestation won't host anymore, huh?

Any suggestions?

[scalded dog]

It looks like stock exhaust in pretty good condition, if they don't have any holes in them, and the chrome is good, you can get up to $200 for them, if the carbs are in good condtion, and just need cleaning, you can get up to $120 for them. the faring looks lik,e it has the radio set up on it, that would go for around $200, the side covers if they have emblems, and no broken tabs, they would go for around $75. the gas tank if it has no dents and the inside ain't to rusty you can get around 75. those few things, $670 worth if sold on e-bay, you would have your money back, a host of other parts, that come off the bike, would get you another $200 -300 , brake calipers, starter, master cylinder front and back, mirrors, saddle bags, trunk, etc. the way I see it you can't lose. Later 'Dog

[chevy45412001]

buying

I think a lot different than most people. So here is my centablo's on the subject.To me if a 1100cc bike runs and at least goes under it's own power it is worth $500.Reason being,its summer time for one,and you cant touch a 1100cc bike that runs for under$2,000 usually 3-4 grand or up.most parts can still be found and you found the place to get tech help if needed.But i' would personaly try to (excuse my french) jew them down on price,worst case he'd say no,best case he would say get it out of my yard (for 350)summer is not the time to buy a bike or boat.Hope it goes well for you.

[tab1324]

less than $500 and it runs - buy it!

I got a good deal on my bike - $200 from a friend of mine that couldn't put in the wrench time. I've been working at it since March and it's still not perfect. I've got a total of about $550 into it, including the $200 to buy it. If you're a wrencher it's definately worth the money - nice smooth, quick, comfortable bike. My insurance costs me only about $90 / year but I'm 32 - never ridden before though. Try www.bike-line.com/ for insurance - they beat progressive for me by $50 / year.

On the other issues with the bike. The front forks might be low on air pressure if the bikes been sitting. Mine was at 0... Now at 18 PSI. Carb boot fixes like "plasti-dip" work pretty well. Mine didn't leak but I plasti-dipped them anyway just to get a better looking boot. The spark plug thing - Don't know exactly what you mean but if the spark is outside the insulator on the plug wire, the plug wires should be replaced.

Bottom line is - if you can get a bike that cheap that already runs - although not perfect - you should go for it. You might sink another $500 into it over time but there's a lot of satisfaction in doing it yourself. You can say to your buddy that is making $200 / month payment on his 2002 V-Star that you paid for your bike what he pays in 2-3 months for his.

Good luck - let us know!

Tom B.

[scalded dog]

I saw a different couple of pictures tonight than last night, the oil cooler on front, probably help keep the engine running better as the oil was cooled as you ride, which in turn helps the oil last longer and lube better. Later 'Dog

[Shuriken]

I have purchased 3 XS11's .... once you start, you can't stop. Anyway, see other threads about "Ben's addiction."

I bought my 80g standard running for $650. I bought a 78e (if I remember) parts bike, non running - $150. I recently bought a non-running 79sf for $450.

That's an average of $416 per bike. With old bikes, I figure at a very minimum, not counting time, opportunity cost, insurance and/or registrations, my experience has shown I will spend as much as the purchase price in maintenance and parts. That comes out to around $850 to get one of these beasts rideable.

Chevy454 makes a good point. 1100cc's for under $1k is not too bad if everything isn't trashed.

I think I've payed too much on all 3 of my bikes. But each time I talk the people down about %50. My recent aquisition looks like crap - as usual for XS11's in Utah.... but I got it because it only had 22k on it vs 46k on my other. Bought it solely on guesswork that the engine would be sound.

I tested cold cranking PSI at 100 - 115 the other day. With an oil change, carb clean, and jumpstart, she fired right up. After it was warm I tested compression again and, to my surprise, saw 125+ psi on all 4 cyls (5700ft elev). After the carb clean (worst carbs I've ever cleaned) she purrs right along at idle even better than my 80g that has been re-jetted for elevation.

I'm hoping I will have something to work with. Of course, if I had money right now, I would have to do the following to it:
tires - $200
exhaust - $350
paint - $200
seat - $125

It adds up. But even $1325 for one in good shape is a fair deal if you plan to keep it. Bob at Merriam Cycles describes the new bikes as "one purpose bikes." That holds true when considering that the XS11 will pull a trailer, a passenger, cruise all day on the interstate, or trash many other bikes in a straight line. You're paying $1325 for a multi-purpose bike.

But perhaps one reason I like them so much is I can work on them myself. I only began wrenching as soon as I bought one. Even beginners - with care and help - can do their own work. Can you think about fiddling with fuel injection on new bikes, or adjust the valves? If something breaks on an XS11, I have a good chance of figuring it out. I don't know if I could do that with the newer bikes. This adds up when you consider a lot of shops will charge $50/hr.

I'd pick that bike up if it had good compression.

If you buy them at a low enough cost, you can do a top-end rebuild (until kits are no longer made) and get the engine's nasty power back. Many economy vehicles make less than 95hp. Start shaving weight and doing other performance mods to this beast and it starts becoming more of a sport bike.

Ben

[CRXSi90]

Wow, thanks Ben. That was inspiring!

I've been to see the motorcycle twice, once not running, and once running.

It would feel funny to go and "see" it again, so how should I go about negotiating the price? I'd do it over the phone, but I don't think it is quite as effective, as the green factor isn't there. (flash the cash)

Is a good negotiation technique to kindly list the problems with the motorcycle, as to not offend the owner?

"Well, it definately runs rough. You're probably right about the plugs being one of the problems, and it could use a good carburator cleaning. Another thing that goes bad on older motorcycles are the carb diaphragms. They are pricy pieces.

I also noticed that the front forks dived more than usual. It'll probably take new, fresh springs to fix the problem, and maybe new seals.

Another kind of funny thing is when my mom and I were riding home after the test ride, I smelled musty. I'm guessing it is from the seat. Those seem to run about $100 for a 'copycat'. "

How does that sound?

Here is the album @ imagestation...16 pictures including the ones above...if it doesn't work, there isn't much you haven't seen anyway.

Finally, what should my theoretical upper price limit be? I'm thinking 500. I'll bring 400 cash, and offer 350. I suppose the technical upper limit would be above 1000 or so, huh?

Final note: State Farm insurance: $281

I don't think progressive is around here...so I'd have to do it online or over the phone.

How is it dealing with insurance companies if you can't actually go see them? Is it a problem? I definately will look @ price-line.

so:
Phone negotiation?
Negotiation tips?
Final Price?

Thanks, this site is great! Friendly to newcommers. Hopefully once I build some knowledge, I can help new people too.

Kevin

[chevy45412001]

your already behind

First mistake,don't go there two or three times.Now the guy knows you really want the bike,so he will probly want to stay high on price.supply and demand rule.Go with the asking price on you.Or give the person your riding with lets say 50-100 to hang on to.(so you can barrow if need be)Ask nicely if he will take less and how much.If he balks or stumbles THEN go into the list of things it will need to be safley ridden,play it buy ear. If hes already come down in price from original he DOES want to get rid of it (depends how sick he is of looking at it)Or how bad swmbo wants to plant roses in the parking space.Either way play it by ear and don't piss him off,most likly he will take around 350-375 if you play your cards right,And even if he stays firm you'll still be getting a good deal on a killer bike.

Good luck and keep us posted