Hard brake lever

[DeanR]

What to look for with a rock hard brake lever? Soft means air present somewhere. I don’t know what hard indicates.

I went to braided stainless lines on the front quite a few years ago, at which time the lever firmed up nicely, feeling just right. The bike has only been ridden down the road, just a couple miles, once or twice a year for the last 7 or 8 years.

There is now virtually no movement in the brake lever. The front brakes do stop, and they do release, but the lever barely squeezes.

Ideas please? Thanks

[3Phase]

Frozen caliper(s).

'Stuff' in the brake line or union.

The system still had air in it and the bubbles finally made the journey up to the master cylinder and out into the reservoir through the spooge hole.

There is a block of wood under the brake lever.

[FJ111200]

It could be that the adjusting screw on the lever has been screwed in too far and is just about touching the m/c piston.

[motoman]

I have to agree with 3Phases second response statement. With that, I would remove fill cap and re-bleed those front brakes Dean. Just be sure and cover that tank with a clean rag or towel.

[bikerphil]

Maybe the lever is frozen itself on it's pivot bolt.

[JeffH]

The bike has only been ridden down the road, just a couple miles, once or twice a year for the last 7 or 8 years.

There is now virtually no movement in the brake lever. The front brakes do stop, and they do release, but the lever barely squeezes.

Ideas please? Thanks

Howdy Dean,
If you haven't flushed that brake fluid in 7 years then you likely have some rust and crud on the parts in the brake master.

and as already mentioned, likely (if fluid hasn't been flushed) maybe crud on the caliper piston, or the stuck pivot bolt or the in too far set screw.
Maybe you will get lucky with a fluid flush but I'd be safe and clean the caliper piston and the master.
You sure don't want 'auto brake' going on as heat builds up during a ride -or- a 'no brake' experience.

Jeff

[motoman]

Good advice Jeff. I tend to forget you and Dean, even though he's in upstate New York have the fairly constant humidity factor that here in my location doesn't.

[3Phase]

Humidity-schumidity, I'm still bettin' on the block of wood under the lever.

[motoman]

......definitely the easiest place to start.

[jetmechmarty]

Brake fluid should be replaced every two years.

Screw it! I'm going for a ride.

[DeanR]

yep, I suppose some routine TLC is in order. The ST's always get that. The XS not so much.
Still looks good though.

As soon as I get a few bottles of brake fluid, I'll start there, before taking stuff apart.

[Schming]

yep, I suppose some routine TLC is in order. The ST's always get that. The XS not so much.
Still looks good though.

As soon as I get a few bottles of brake fluid, I'll start there, before taking stuff apart.

IMHO you'll be wasting your time and brake fluid. As JeffH stated, I'll second a dismantle from top to bottom if you value your life or anyone or thing that may bring you to a halt when the brakes fail.

[3Phase]

Dean, sit down by the front wheel and take a close look at the front calipers while you work the brake lever to see if one caliper is working and releasing normally and the other is slow, sticking, or not moving.

The calipers can be difficult to take apart and clean and a slow, sticky, one even more so without mangling the piston. Anyway, slow or not, pick a caliper and remove the brake pads on it first, then use the brake lever to pump out the piston as you add brake fluid to the master cylinder so it doesn't empty out and suck air.

When the first piston is almost all the way out, the lever will suddenly pull to the handlebar. Push the piston back in a little and block it with a piece of plywood so it can't come out, then pull the pads on the second caliper and use the master cylinder again to pump out its piston.

Once both pistons have been pumped almost all the way out they should be easy to take apart without scarring them with channel lock pliers and vice grips, shooting them across the garage with compressed air, or making a mess with a grease gun.

[speedlimit85]

My brake lines may be 37 years old. It could be time for new ones.

[jetmechmarty]

My brake lines may be 37 years old. It could be time for new ones.

The factory service manual says to replace the lines every four years. So, yes, they're due.