Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Carbmate Tecmate TS-111

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Carbmate Tecmate TS-111

    I was pushed-away by the price, but always found this product more interesting than my Carbtune (and colourtune). I found it cheap online with the 4 cyl. adapter, for $115 shipped. Could not pass it up.

    As many may remember, my bike was originally setup with the advance locked-out at full advance. I've since replaced it with an unmolested '78 advance. However, with the original setup, I get a VERY low reading on my Carbtune gauges. REALLY low! It's hard to sync the carbs with it that low, especially when dialing down the idle. I'm not a Mikuni guru, but I know that may not be right. So, I want to see if this digital manometer will give me an easier time with the sync. Will report back in another month and let you know how this works.
    1979 XS1100F
    2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

  • #2
    Wow......your location elevation wise, vacuum oughta' be around 19-20in. if not a tad more. Here at 5,000ft. vacuum is 18in. consistently. And yes, I use the Carbtune.
    Last edited by motoman; 03-19-2017, 04:00 PM.
    81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

    Comment


    • #3
      Yes. With the original setup, I was well above 20 cmHg. I'll have to check to make sure all hoses are good, and that vacuum pod is functioning properly.
      1979 XS1100F
      2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

      Comment


      • #4
        Also, make sure all four restrictors in vacuum hoses ends that plug onto Carb Tune are ALL in the ends that plug onto Carb Tune. Getting the hose ends with restrictors mixed up with hose ends turned around other direction make a big difference of in. vacuums for ones turned around the other and wrong way way.
        81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by motoman View Post
          Also, make sure all four restrictors in vacuum hoses ends that plug onto Carb Tune are ALL in the ends that plug onto Carb Tune. Getting the hose ends with restrictors mixed up with hose ends turned around other direction make a big difference of in. vacuums for ones turned around the other and wrong way way.
          Absolutely! I think the first year I used it, I had the restricted tubes on the wrong end (the instructions don't make it clear, as they say "no less than (given measurement) from engine/Carbtune".
          1979 XS1100F
          2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

          Comment


          • #6
            UPDATE: What an amazingly simply manometer! Zero it out, hook it up to your vacuum ports and your battery, and fine-tune it following the lights.

            1&2, and 3&4 were close to each other, but bank 1 to bank 2 was wayyyy off! As soon as I heard that idle rise, I knew the manometer was doing it's job.

            Bike runs much smoother. A worthy investment. I like it much more than my Carbtune.
            1979 XS1100F
            2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

            Comment


            • #7
              Nice!

              How much vacuum is your engine pulling now that it's synchronized? It should be close to 20 inHg if it's all dialed in and happy.
              -- Scott
              _____

              2004 ST1300A: No name... yet
              1982 XJ1100J: "Baby" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
              1980 XS1100G: "Columbo" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
              1979 XS1100SF: "Bush" W.I.P.
              1979 XS1100F: parts
              2018 Heritage Softail Classic 117 FLHCS SE: "Nanuk" It's DEAD, it's not just resting. It is an EX cycle.

              Comment


              • #8
                Glad that all worked out for you Ian! If not, my next advise was gonna be 'low voltage either TO or From the coils was low. Have that that issue previously myself, and vacuum draw just kept getting lower and lower across all four cyls. each time I chose to re-sync carbs. Took some voltage checking to find the issue being ohm rating of coils had dropped to 2.4ohms from the rated 3ohm. Replaced them with Honda VFR coils, re-synced carbs and vacuum was even across all four cyls. at 18in. (which IS vacuum level at 5000 ft. elev.)
                81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by 3Phase View Post
                  How much vacuum is your engine pulling now that it's synchronized? It should be close to 20 inHg if it's all dialed in and happy.
                  U know, I'd like to check that. Should I check that with the vacuum pod attached, or not? I presume I can hook my Carbtune to any one of the manifold ports to measure?
                  1979 XS1100F
                  2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by motoman View Post
                    Glad that all worked out for you Ian! If not, my next advise was gonna be 'low voltage either TO or From the coils was low. Have that that issue previously myself, and vacuum draw just kept getting lower and lower across all four cyls. each time I chose to re-sync carbs. Took some voltage checking to find the issue being ohm rating of coils had dropped to 2.4ohms from the rated 3ohm. Replaced them with Honda VFR coils, re-synced carbs and vacuum was even across all four cyls. at 18in. (which IS vacuum level at 5000 ft. elev.)
                    Despite having put Dyna DC-I coils on my bike, I'm not above looking into re-measuring the HT leads going to the coils, as-well as primary and secondary resistance checking.

                    I will look into some more electrical mods on my bike, including increasing the wire gauge size coming from the solenoid to the starter, battery negative to engine ground, and battery positive to solenoid. I'll also look at doing a coil relay mod as-well.
                    1979 XS1100F
                    2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Check the vacuum on each manifold nipple, they should all be the same now that they're synch'd.


                      Vacuum advance shouldn't matter unless you've got #2 throttle plate open too far and it's tickling the advance pot.

                      Put your gauge on the advance nipple on the #2 carb and see if you have advance vacuum signal at idle.
                      Pretty much anything over zero is wrong but if it's pulsing a little and staying below 2 inHg it's close enough, don't get obsessed, go ride!
                      -- Scott
                      _____

                      2004 ST1300A: No name... yet
                      1982 XJ1100J: "Baby" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
                      1980 XS1100G: "Columbo" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
                      1979 XS1100SF: "Bush" W.I.P.
                      1979 XS1100F: parts
                      2018 Heritage Softail Classic 117 FLHCS SE: "Nanuk" It's DEAD, it's not just resting. It is an EX cycle.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by 3Phase View Post
                        Check the vacuum on each manifold nipple, they should all be the same now that they're synch'd.


                        Vacuum advance shouldn't matter unless you've got #2 throttle plate open too far and it's tickling the advance pot.

                        Put your gauge on the advance nipple on the #2 carb and see if you have advance vacuum signal at idle.
                        Pretty much anything over zero is wrong but if it's pulsing a little and staying below 2 inHg it's close enough, don't get obsessed, go ride!
                        Roger that. Thanks Scott.
                        1979 XS1100F
                        2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                        Comment

                        Working...
                        X