Turn Signal Issues

[LakeOber]

Hello,

My turn signals have been working great but today I noticed them acting up. A few times when I put them on, I noticed that my turn indicators above my cluster were solid and not flashing. This was happening on both the left and right. However, sometimes they would flash fine but then after a few seconds switch to solid again. I checked when I got home and it seems like when the indicators stay solid, so do the turn signals. Does this indicate a relay is going bad or the bulbs themselves?

Thanks!

[BA80]

Check and make sure your bike is charging good and your battery isn't weak.

[bikerphil]

If you don't mind losing the self cancel feature, replace the flasher with a TWO prong electronic automotive flasher. Otherwise, get ready to go thru all the related wiring connections including grounds and clean them to get back to the proper voltage to run the stock flasher relay.

[LakeOber]

If you don't mind losing the self cancel feature, replace the flasher with a TWO prong electronic automotive flasher. Otherwise, get ready to go thru all the related wiring connections including grounds and clean them to get back to the proper voltage to run the stock flasher relay.

I honestly don't really care about the self-cancel feature. It doesn't even seem to work quite right all the time. If I replaced it with a 2 prong flasher, is there a model I should buy? I don't know if there are specs that the relay would need to meet.

[motoman]

I honestly don't really care about the self-cancel feature. It doesn't even seem to work quite right all the time. If I replaced it with a 2 prong flasher, is there a model I should buy? I don't know if there are specs that the relay would need to meet.

BA80's suggestion would be a good start. Replacing with an electronic flasher doesn't solve the issue when grounds and connections haven't been gone through with cleaning, which includes unplugging and cleaning both them and any frame grounds.

[LakeOber]

BA80's suggestion would be a good start. Replacing with an electronic flasher doesn't solve the issue when grounds and connections haven't been gone through with cleaning, which includes unplugging and cleaning both them and any frame grounds.

That is true. I will take time to look over the grounds this weekend to see what I can find and will also try and do some voltage tests on the battery. Thanks for your help.

[bikerphil]

I honestly don't really care about the self-cancel feature. It doesn't even seem to work quite right all the time. If I replaced it with a 2 prong flasher, is there a model I should buy? I don't know if there are specs that the relay would need to meet.

Any 2 prong electronic flasher will work. The factory relay can be taken apart if needed and the contact points can be filed flat. I myself have gone to electronic flashers in my bikes and never looked back.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there Lake,

All good info so far. The OEM flasher is a THERMAL design, and the fuse for that circuit is twice as large as any other circuit at 20 A vs. the 10A for Ign, Head, Lights. Also the OEM bulbs are/were supposed to be 27 watts for the turns, again to provide enough current draw to properly heat up the flasher to cycle. Folks have replaced the bulbs with newer types but are often automotive and around 23watts instead so less current draw, less heat, slower signal cycle.

Aside from the battery to frame ground, there are other ground points....the engine to frame behind the starter, as well as the ground wires bolted to the Reg/Rect and it's connection to the frame there. Also, the signals use a ring washer connected to the ground wire that is secured and grounded to frame with the mounting of the signal stalk. The rear are more prone to corrosion being under the fender/ wheel/road debris and such. But the fronts in the headlight bucket and also corrode.

Also, the sockets themselves can corrode, so take off the lens, pull out the bulb and check the socket to mounting shaft wire....small braided one secured with screws, points for corrosion there also.

The 2 prong ELECTRONIC type flashers don't rely on LOAD to cycle, but just make sure that it can handle the ~4.5 AMP load that the 2 - 27 watt bulbs can generate. The flasher can plug into the socket 1 of 2 ways, if they don't work one way, switch it around and it should then work.

T.C.

[LakeOber]

Hey there Lake,

All good info so far. The OEM flasher is a THERMAL design, and the fuse for that circuit is twice as large as any other circuit at 20 A vs. the 10A for Ign, Head, Lights. Also the OEM bulbs are/were supposed to be 27 watts for the turns, again to provide enough current draw to properly heat up the flasher to cycle. Folks have replaced the bulbs with newer types but are often automotive and around 23watts instead so less current draw, less heat, slower signal cycle.

Aside from the battery to frame ground, there are other ground points....the engine to frame behind the starter, as well as the ground wires bolted to the Reg/Rect and it's connection to the frame there. Also, the signals use a ring washer connected to the ground wire that is secured and grounded to frame with the mounting of the signal stalk. The rear are more prone to corrosion being under the fender/ wheel/road debris and such. But the fronts in the headlight bucket and also corrode.

Also, the sockets themselves can corrode, so take off the lens, pull out the bulb and check the socket to mounting shaft wire....small braided one secured with screws, points for corrosion there also.

The 2 prong ELECTRONIC type flashers don't rely on LOAD to cycle, but just make sure that it can handle the ~4.5 AMP load that the 2 - 27 watt bulbs can generate. The flasher can plug into the socket 1 of 2 ways, if they don't work one way, switch it around and it should then work.

T.C.

Awesome info! Thanks!