1981H xs1100 rebuild project, started Feb.2017

[FranksBMW]

Naked!

[3Phase]

Edit: Well, that didn't work when I posted. Hmm .... Looks good though, Frank!

[3Phase]

[FranksBMW]

Finally a picture

[FranksBMW]

Great! I would put a little ATF or Marvel mystery oil into each plug hole for now. It will coat it with oil, loosen the rings, and take care of any rust.

I put in some regular motor oil.

[DiverRay]

Great! I would put a little ATF or Marvel mystery oil into each plug hole for now. It will coat it with oil, loosen the rings, and take care of any rust.

[FranksBMW]

Good news: just came back from the garage - I removed the spark plugs, put the trans in 2nd gear, pushed the bike forward, and confirmed that the motor is not seized. Big relief.

[FranksBMW]

I'm confused. Why not pull the side cover, and turn the engine by hand as TC mentioned.

Yes, that is also a viable option.

[IanDMacDonald]

I'm confused. Why not pull the side cover, and turn the engine by hand as TC mentioned.

[FranksBMW]

Thanks Scott, got it, with my 8lb hammer.

Removed the rear wheel (love the way the rear fender back flips up - my BMW does not have that feature), rear brake caliper, master cylinder, and reinstalled the rear wheel.

I was able to shift the trans from 1st to neutral. Now I have a roller that I can move around my crowded garage. Fuel petcocks and brake callipers are ready for rebuild.

I could not find the kick start lever (gone) but i can check to see if the engine is seized by pushing the bike while in 2nd gear. Tomorrow.

[3Phase]

Ax!

Frank,

Put the rear axle nut back on the threads to protect them but reverse it so the castellated part is facing in, then use the ax to break it loose, hopefully without turning yourself into the Tin Woodman.

[FranksBMW]

Removed the old battery.

Still can't get the rear axle out. I'm striking the left side end with an ax using a piece of 2x4 so as not to damage the threads. The cinch bolt is removed from the right side. The axle moves side to side only 2-3mm but rotates easily. Guess it's frozen to an inner bearing race. Do I continue to whack it?

[FranksBMW]

Thanks .

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Frank.

When I sent you your membership confirmation email, I also included links to Catatonic Bug's website where you could download user and service manuals....did you actually read the email, or just figure you were good to go and just jumped on/signed on!?

The wire device is to help contract the shocks to pull the axle clear of the exhaust pipe, but if you have the pipes off, or aftermarket that don't interfere with the axle clearing to the side, then you don't need the wire device anyways. And just the weight of the wheel and such keeps a fair amount of pressure on the rear axle, as well as some rust often forms on it, and between it and the inner spacers in the wheel, which creates more friction. I've used a large screwdriver to assist in tapping it out so that it wouldn't damage the threads.

When trying to rotate the engine, don't use the square nut head of the timing plate on the left side, it's not that strong. Take the ALT cover off of the right side. The bolt holding the ALT rotor loosens CCW which is the same direction the engine turns from that side, so trying to use that hex nut may not provide a good vantage, but folks will put large screwdrivers THRU the holes/ports of the rotor and you can then apply some decent leverage to rotate the engine if it's tough to rotate. Would highly suggest taking the cam cover off to check out the condition of the cams/valves, and ensure that the chain tensioner is still snug so that the cams will stay in time so you won't bend valves.

T.C.

[motoman]

Hi Ian. I did find an owners' manual on the 'net and it mentioned a wire/string/chain tool that goes from the end of the swing arm on one side, and goes over the wheel to the end of the other arm, in the section about removing the rear wheel. That left me confused.

But I can drift it out? Great.

You'll notice tiny hook thingys' on each side of swing-arm for cable to hook onto. Doing this on the 78-80 Standards allows easy accsess to axle nut, and pulling axle without exhaust removal(cable holds suspension UP to clear exhaust.......a cable or whatever works too. Hope that removed any confusion you may have had. Just remember, whatever you use, it loops up OVER rear fender, not wheel.....THEN raise rear of bike off ground.