1981H xs1100 rebuild project, started Feb.2017

[MaximPhil]

Frank if it is just the "post' that is nroken on that cover there is a fix to rebuild it. Search the forum for instructions. I expect any XS key will open that lock as it only goes in 1/2 way.

Phil

[FranksBMW]

Hi Scott, thanks for your reply. The bike came without any keys. The left side broken panel is missing pieces so no chance of rebuilding it with what's left in the lock. Luckily it's just the bottom angled-in ledge that's broken off so it won't be visible once installed. I'll find another way to hold the covers on.

In previous post #123, I meant to write "reddish colour."

[3Phase]

You changed the paint color and put on round signals! Heretic!

Frank, the ignition key is supposed to unlock the ignition, fuel tank cap, and the left-hand side cover.

The side cover lock can be taken off the frame and disassembled. Unless you have a different ignition key now, it's probably just rusted and needs to be sprayed with some oil-like substance like PB Baster, octopus juice, or whatever you have in the garage, you know?

'Work' the key and the lock until it loosens up and the key can turn without torquing it off in the cylinder, remove the side cover piece, then put the side cover back together with some fiberglass or just find another one that's not broken. Good side covers are getting kind of expensive.

[FranksBMW]

Rattle-canned my tank and side covers a satin black. (Sorry purists, I just don't like the relish colour that was on it. I also found and installed round front turn signals, from a Special, I guess.)

The left side panel is broken along the bottom edge. The broken part is still locked in, with a key I do not have.

[FranksBMW]

Thumbs up!

[motoman]

Airbox "reinserted" into its place with a new air filter. Boy, what a goofy design for how it's held together. Silly little bushings too, just to add complexity. Going to wait for warmer temps (more flexible boots) to install the carbs.

A shot of silicone spray inside each boot will resolve that issue. Works nice, even when things are warm.

[FranksBMW]

Airbox "reinserted" into its place with a new air filter. Boy, what a goofy design for how it's held together. Silly little bushings too, just to add complexity. Going to wait for warmer temps (more flexible boots) to install the carbs.

[FranksBMW]

By "wiring loom", I mean pigtail.

[FranksBMW]

Sanded my newly welded gas tank today in preparation for black rattle can paint tomorrow. This tank does not have the gas cap hardware, but I have a line on another tank that that does. Took apart and cleaned the petcocks and cleaned up the fuel level sensor. I obtained a headlight bucket recently and will soon install it (after soon replacing the ignition unit with a key). I'm surprised that Yamaha Canada could not supply me a key or even a key code, given the code on the original ignition unit.

I'm worried about the electrical connections - wiring isn't my thing, but I'll learn. This bike had a windjammer-like fairing and a wiring loom that I won't be using. I will keep it though in case I or the next owner wants to reinstall the fairing.

[CaptonZap]

I think CZ sent them to me, but can't recall for sure....so if I've made a faux paux...please forgive me.

[


T.C.

Yeah, that was a few years ago, so no big deal to space it out.

For those with an interest, I will explain the flow.
The two bulkheads are spot welded to a sheet metal shroud, which is the inserted into the outer shell and rosette welded to it. You can see the weld on the ear sticking up on the left bulkhead. The ear is part of the inner shroud. You can see the rust between it and the outer shell back at the right bulkhead. Most rust forms between the shroud and the shell, which comes from short trips in moist weather, during which the moisture between the two is not evaporated.

The exhaust gas pulse comes in from the left, and is aimed it the stub tube welded to the two long lower tubes. The sound wave is reflected back up the header pipe, and I assume that the factory designed it to produce some reversion during valve overlap. The gases hit the left hand bulkhead, and reverse direction so that they can flow through the four long tubes, into the far right anti chamber, where they again reverse direction and flow through the oval hole in the right hand bulkhead. They then flow through the holes in the center tube, which is the one sticking out the rear of the muffler. Some folks will drill holes in the plate supporting the center tube, which relieves a little back pressure, and increases the sound level.

These where from an 80 Standard, which was a demonstrator bike for a dealer, and thus presumably subjected to a lot of short trips, which never fully heated the mufflers up, allowing the rust to get to the stage it is. Oddly enough, the front half of the mufflers where just fine, and received grafts of sectioned Sportster mufflers.

CZ

[FranksBMW]

Cool, thanks TopCat!

My rattly exhaust actually didn't sound too bad while it was running briefly.

[TopCatGr58]

There is something fairly large and loose rattling inside the mufflers, so they will eventually need to be replaced, like the ripped seat, but that can wait until the bike is running.

Hey Frank,

I couldn't find these photos a few days ago when you posted this, but I finally found them, and so wanted to show you that the mufflers are actually quite complicated and there's a good chance something may have come loose inside there! Take a look! I think CZ sent them to me, but can't recall for sure....so if I've made a faux paux...please forgive me.








T.C.

[FranksBMW]

Tank was derusted by reverse electrolysis, and my buddy TIG welded up the holes. One Venturer tank saved. Still have to coat and seal the inside.

[MaximPhil]

Hi Frank,
Glad to hear you are making progress. This variable weather has to have you in and out like a fiddlers elbow of your garage/shed.
Phil

[FranksBMW]

My gas tank is currently de-rusting via electrolysis. Then a few holes need welding up. Moving along on the journey.