1981H xs1100 rebuild project, started Feb.2017

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  • FranksBMW
    replied
    Originally posted by Jeffintampa
    Oh I though he was getting a cheap ole on going.
    I am. Skids must have my thread confused with another.

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  • Jeffintampa
    replied
    Originally posted by skids
    While I agree that valve clearances should be periodically checked, if his issues only occur in the rain, I doubt that this is the problem with his bike.
    Oh I though he was getting a cheap ole on going.

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  • skids
    replied
    Originally posted by Jeffintampa
    I think I would recommend you also pulling the valve cover and checking your clearances, very easy to check. They adjust by changing to thicker or thinner disks.
    While I agree that valve clearances should be periodically checked, if his issues only occur in the rain, I doubt that this is the problem with his bike.

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  • Jeffintampa
    replied
    while you in the tear down mode lol

    I think I would recommend you also pulling the valve cover and checking your clearances, very easy to check. They adjust by changing to thicker or thinner disks.

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  • 3Phase
    replied
    Right on, Frank! Way to go, man! It's alive! Alive!

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  • motoman
    replied
    Thanks Ray! I actually learned some better specifics from your two added threads, so.........it wasn't a wasted day for me.

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  • MaximPhil
    replied
    Originally posted by FranksBMW
    big picture: the bike runs
    Hi Frank,
    spring is sprung and the bike runs....all good so far
    Phil

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  • FranksBMW
    replied
    big picture: the bike runs

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  • motoman
    replied
    Originally posted by FranksBMW
    Okay, but the point here is that IT'S ALIVE!

    That's a good thing, but actual point is, your still gonna have to remove those pilot screws along with other internal parts of carbs in order to clean them so motor runs good and correctly. Fortunately, you got a good START.

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  • FranksBMW
    replied
    Okay, but the point here is that IT'S ALIVE!

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  • DiverRay
    replied
    Sorry, but WD-40 is mis-represented, and as a result gets mis-used on a regular bases.
    motoman has it correct. And, just so people know, the WD stands for Water Displacement, Formula try number 40. It was made to keep the nuke missiles ready to fire, and keep water off the stainless steel skins.

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  • motoman
    replied
    Originally posted by FranksBMW
    I've got WD40 in those recessed mixture screws. Is Kroil much better? How about heat?
    Sorry, but WD-40 is mis-represented, and as a result gets mis-used on a regular bases. Heat, other than a hot blow-dryer is DEFINITELY a no.
    Again, Kroil as I first suggested. Trust us here, our responses are NOT just guessing responses. Already several steps ahead of you, and will respond with that after you do what's suggested FIRST.

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  • DiverRay
    replied
    WD40 is NOT intended for that! I use a "cheap" Kroil, and it's made at home! Get a small can of acetone, and mix it 50/50 with ATF. I keep a mixture in a METAL oil can. The ATF (automatic trans fluid) has VERY GOOD anti rust qualities, and the acetone works it into all kinds of tight places. Read test a few years back, and it beat anything on the market for freeing up rusted bolts. They used steel bolts soaked in salt water for three days as a test, IIRC.

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  • FranksBMW
    replied
    I've got WD40 in those recessed mixture screws. Is Kroil much better? How about heat?

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  • motoman
    replied
    Originally posted by FranksBMW
    It's alive! Started and ran with a temporary fuel source and temporary car battery hookup. Some blue smoke but that's okay for now. Kept it between 2K and 4K rpm to warm it up nicely and make sure oil gets pumped to where it needs to go.
    Happy, happy!
    Good to hear! For those stuck mixture screws, may try squirting a few drops of Kroil in there and let it set overnite. That may release them. You can get a can of Kroil at local NAPA, ACE hardware or Tru-Valu and many other places.

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