1981H xs1100 rebuild project, started Feb.2017
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Crazy
expensive if you use a bunch but you should not need to.Leave a comment:
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Seams
Put everything back together and put gas in the tank. Still leaks, must be more pinholes and along the seam. Will have to buy tank liner epoxy. Even though it was leaking, I took it around the block. Starts and idles well but hesitates during acceleration, but then it wasn't warmed up yet.
Don't have to use much, just enough to cover the areas you think or find have pin holes.
Make sure the tank is clean and dry before using super glue and expect to see a little tiny bit come out the pin holes.Last edited by donebysunday; 07-05-2017, 09:40 PM.Leave a comment:
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Yes, some internet reading has suggested that the ethanol in gas is destructive to polyester.Leave a comment:
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In my research I only heard that fiberglass doesn't hold up over time. Some types may work on small holes. I replaced my tank because I ended up with a 1×6" rectangular hole. Thought seriously about trying to fiberglass it, but everyone said noooooLeave a comment:
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I have a Venturer seat in very good condition that I won't be using as it's too wide.
I had it on my '80G full dresser for a year last Summer and my 30" inseam has trouble reaching the ground. As of last weekend I was able to modify my SF's stock seat pan ( slight trim at the tank) to fit the G.
It's narrower than the Venturer seat by 2" in width at the front so I have a better, safer reach for the extra weight of the full dressed bike.
I'll work on getting some pics up asap for ya.Leave a comment:
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Thanks Mschor. Caswell was recommended to me as well. I've also been told that fibreglass resin would work. Thoughts on that?Leave a comment:
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Caswell is a good liner. Hope it works, I cleaned and coated my tank only to find that the metal had rusted to paper thin all behind the emblem....had to replace it in the endLeave a comment:
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Put everything back together and put gas in the tank. Still leaks, must be more pinholes and along the seam. Will have to buy tank liner epoxy. Even though it was leaking, I took it around the block. Starts and idles well but hesitates during acceleration, but then it wasn't warmed up yet.Leave a comment:
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Hi everyone, it's been a while. Other stuff in life demands attention.
Here are a couple of observations.
- JB Weld does not hold up to gas. Patches on small hole began to leak after a couple of weeks. I found an epoxy paste that is advertised as gas tank repair so I'm trying that.
-My clutch cable was very stiff and resistant to movement. There may be such a thing as a cable luber but I don't have one. I cut the corner of a sandwich baggie and sealed it at the end of the cable with elastic bands. I poured in some WD40 and penetrating oil, and suspended the cable vertically so the liquid could find its way into the cable. It took 2 days but the cable has now freed up.
Still to go: paperwork with MTO to obtain a title, and I really would like a seat in better condition. Mine is ripped (I duct taped it) and a section of the seat pan is rusted and disintegrating.Leave a comment:
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An Easier way to tell is LOOK AT THE SPOKES of the rim,
IT will say TUBELESS if they are in fact tubeless rims.
Slow leak could be corrosion of the rim at the bead, or the tire valve innards, or even the actual tire valve....they can be replace....over fill it a little and then slather it with some soap film and look for bubbles around valve.
T.C.Leave a comment:
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'81 should be tubeless but you never know what someone has done before you got the bike so look at the rim.
The tube-type rims have three holes drilled in them for bead locks. There will be bolts sticking out of them or the holes may be sealed with JB Weld.
The tubeless rims use a similar casting but the bead seat is slightly different and there are no holes for the bead locks, they just have three flat pads where the holes would be if they were drilled for bead locks.Leave a comment:
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