Well it's always something

[DavePlum]

Some of you know I've been working on this non running SG I got at the end of July last year. Last attempt to start I discovered two more items that need to be addressed. I discovered two broken pickup wires (that repair is complete) and I also have a voltage drop to the TCI of almost 1V (12.3V @ battery and 11.4V @ TCI) Probably dirty connectors so I'll have to go thru those again.
I decided to make sure my cam dots lined up on TDC which they do. While I had the cover off I thought I might as well check valve clearances. I got about 2-3 measurements when as I'm turning the crank I feel some additional resistance and then hear a metallic pop. I then see that the #2 exhaust cam lobe has made contact with valve bucket, I continued to rotate the crank enough to look at the lobe and don't see any obvious damage but that particular valve is now stuck open and I was able to remove the shim with a magnet because the gap is massive (.066 in). I also noticed the cam lobe on #2 intake has worn down the finish.
Looks like I'll have to pull those cams and buy a pair to swap out (and maybe a bucket)
Question: When removing the cam bearing caps do the bolts have to removed slowly and in any particular order? I know nothing about these engines except from the service manual and what I've read on this site. I the service manual in chapter 3 it covers cam removal but goes from guide chain removal to sliding the chain off the sprockets and removing the cams along with the sprockets???
What would cause the cam the catch the side of the bucket like that?
Thanks, Dave

[skids]

Yes, I think there is an order for tightening the cam caps. Some resistance when turning the cam and then the valve pops? Yeah, maybe a bent valve. It is probably being freed to close as the piston makes contact. You might be lucky if the valve is not leaking and perhaps the valve stem has deposits. If this is a possibility, and it was my bike, I would put some mystery oil into the spark plug hole and work the cam to work it into the head. If you had the head apart, you did keep the components organized for their original positions, right?

[DavePlum]

Skids- the entire engine is still mounted on the bike, my question regarding the cam caps was regarding removal and if there's a sequence to removing the bolts or do I just remove them one by one.

[Ranger_xs1100]

bearing caps

Skids- the entire engine is still mounted on the bike, my question regarding the cam caps was regarding removal and if there's a sequence to removing the bolts or do I just remove them one by one.

Hi Dave,

I just did this yesterday.
From my clymers manual, chapter 4, cylinder head removal, step 17:

"The bearing caps must be loosened, then removed, working from the center toward the outside in the following order: No. 3,4,2,5,1."

[DavePlum]

Thanks Bob, that's exactly what I needed to know

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Dave,

Just some more info about when you go to put the cams back in the head. In the Dots up position, the lobes will be pushing on a valve shim on one of the cylinders near the END of the cam shaft...been so long so can't recall whether it's at the sprocket end or not. But when the cam is in, the caps in place and you're trying to put the washers and nuts on, you will NOT be able to put them onto the cap that is where the lobe will be pushing on the valve. SO...I had to gently and lightly partially tighten the cap nuts on several of them just enough to push the cam and valve shim down enough to allow the last cam cap enough room to be able to start the nuts on that one.

Hopefully your extra large clearance valve is like what was suggested, carbon/corrosion holding the valve open....just hope it didn't hit the piston, or the opposing valve as you rotated things around afterwards!? But at this point, I'm pretty sure that folks would suggest to just stop, remove the cams and then the head to check things out.

Good Luck.

T.C.

[DavePlum]

TC- that's excellent info...thanks!