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Note: I have not done XS1100 cams however to my knowledge this should work for any set up to my knowledge. Done cams on a couple other bikes and it works fine. And I have not installed a cam chain. The chain has always been in place on the bikes. However this is how I get the cams in trouble-free.
The cam chain tensioner is obviously upfront. Therefore the tight side is on the back where the chain comes up to go over the intake cam.
First, timing mark where it needs to be. Next is to take out the slack on the tight side, set the (intake) cam properly on the tight side, keep the chain taut as I set the other (exhaust) cam properly in place then installing the tensioner, letting the tensioner pick up the slack on the "loose" side. Take your time and it should go fine.
Someone else chime in if that is not an acceptable method to recommend.
NOTE: I HAVE done cams on the XS1100, and this was how I did it: I read the service manual! Like, not trying to be a smart-ass, but coming from a guy that has bent valves doing this procedure, then successfully done the procedure, it's imperative to get a Clymer manual. Step-by-step it takes you through, including torque specs on cam caps, etc.
There are many write-ups on here regarding timing, cams, etc. I read them all, rushed, and still bent my valves. Second time around, I read the manual and it went smooth.
1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
Nice one! My question would be in principle, how much different is the service manual than what I shared? I totally agree and I do have the factory service manual outside in the cold garage and I'm not going to pull it out right now. :-)
NOTE: I HAVE done cams on the XS1100, and this was how I did it: I read the service manual! Like, not trying to be a smart-ass, but coming from a guy that has bent valves doing this procedure, then successfully done the procedure, it's imperative to get a Clymer manual. Step-by-step it takes you through, including torque specs on cam caps, etc.
There are many write-ups on here regarding timing, cams, etc. I read them all, rushed, and still bent my valves. Second time around, I read the manual and it went smooth.
Hi Ronajon,
A choice of Manual here; http://www.ringler.us/family/mybike.html
Right side of page.
I suggest you down load the manual and print the section about the cam installation. Saves getting grease all over your computer
Read it then re-read it then take it slow checking your steps against the manual.
The valves in the XS are extremely delicate. Better safe than sorry.
Phil
1981 XS1100 H Venturer ( Addie)
1983 XJ 650 Maxim
2004 Kawasaki Concours. ( Black Bear)
Nice one! My question would be in principle, how much different is the service manual than what I shared? I totally agree and I do have the factory service manual outside in the cold garage and I'm not going to pull it out right now. :-)
I have no-doubt your advice is spot-on Bonz. But, when I see someone ask such a generalized question that involves the most critical aspect to the bike "timing", all I can do is think of my own experience and cringe, thinking what may happen to others, which we see too often on here.
1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
MAKE SURE YOU PAY ATTENTION TO THE MARK ON THE CAM SPROCKETS. It's not in the manual, but if youve heard of my recent plight, it causes lots of problems. One of the bolt holes has a mark on it that HAS to be up during timing.
1979 XS1100F "Roxy" (my first bike ) - '91 Suzuki GSX1100 Fairing, BMW bags, Cheap ABS Trunk, aftermarket cruiser seat, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Heavy Duty folding kickstart, XS11 Special signals and gauges, Blade Fuse Conversion, Dynacoil Greens w/ ballast bypass, SS brake lines
MAKE SURE YOU PAY ATTENTION TO THE MARK ON THE CAM SPROCKETS. It's not in the manual, but if youve heard of my recent plight, it causes lots of problems. One of the bolt holes has a mark on it that HAS to be up during timing.
If you are referring to the cam boss dots aligning with cam cap arrows, it specifically states that in the Clymer manual in the following steps:
"18. Carefully rotate each cam slightly, with an
open end wrench, until the dot on the cam
aligns with the arrow (A, figure 40) on the
center bearing cap
29. Rotate the crankshank clockwise (Figure 43)
2 complete rotations and align the "T" mark
on the timing plate with the fixed pointer
(figure 35). Check the alignment of the dot on
both cams to the arrow on the center caps
(figure 46)."
1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
MAKE SURE YOU PAY ATTENTION TO THE MARK ON THE CAM SPROCKETS. It's not in the manual, but if youve heard of my recent plight, it causes lots of problems. One of the bolt holes has a mark on it that HAS to be up during timing.
Oh, I think I know what you're referring to. I actually think this myth has been busted, and makes no difference in timing. But, nonetheless, best to follow what the pictures show.
1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
Oh, I think I know what you're referring to. I actually think this myth has been busted, and makes no difference in timing. But, nonetheless, best to follow what the pictures show.
I check this myth the hard way and bent 4 exhaust valves a week ago...
1979 XS1100F "Roxy" (my first bike ) - '91 Suzuki GSX1100 Fairing, BMW bags, Cheap ABS Trunk, aftermarket cruiser seat, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Heavy Duty folding kickstart, XS11 Special signals and gauges, Blade Fuse Conversion, Dynacoil Greens w/ ballast bypass, SS brake lines
I check this myth the hard way and bent 4 exhaust valves a week ago...
I understand how you're reading that Seth, and just for some good educational banter, I believe tgere was a thread where someone used a degree wheel to confirm whether it matters up or down, and it did not. As-long as the dots align when @ TDC, ur good to go.
1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
I check this myth the hard way and bent 4 exhaust valves a week ago...
Marks up or down on a cam sprocket isn't what bent your valves. Sorry to hear about that, but you need to figure out that ACTUAL reason so you don't repeat it.
Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.
You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!
Current bikes:
'06 Suzuki DR650
*'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
'82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
'82 XJ1100 Parts bike
'81 XS1100 Special
'81 YZ250
'80 XS850 Special
'80 XR100
*Crashed/Totalled, still own
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