Long overdue update

[MPittma100]

Cam Install

I was very scared that id bend valves when installing. I was very aware of the risks. I have a clymer manual and I followed the install proceedure to the letter. I even practiced it once with the known bad head (didnt torque anything down, but put everything in place). I really am at a loss as to HOW it happened, but at this point, bent valves are my only thought.
As for clearences, i did a crude check to make sure that they werent being pushed open by the cams, and the exhauzt valves all have decently large clearences. Maybe a sign?

When reinstalling cams, they have to be in time (dots lined up) with crankshaft in proper location. Otherwise, you can bend valves. Excessive lash very likely indicates bent valves.

[Bonz]

How much clearance is "decently large"? .008"-010" is spec, where are they at this point?

[sethhope]

How much clearance is "decently large"? .008"-010" is spec, where are they at this point?

Im not sure at this point. I didnt have time to check the clearance with a gauge. They are pretty far out of spec tho... the ones in the old head were in spec, as thats one thing i did when i got it, so visually comparing, the new head is out by quite a bit. The bike is in my dads garage and I only get over there on weekends and some free nights.

[Bonz]

Gotcha! Hang in there.

[sethhope]

Just got the head back on after working with Eastcoaster to get the valves relapped. We also swapped out the bent intake valves. With the head back on, I have decent compression. Still assembling though, so no word on if it runs yet.

[Bonz]

Nice update. Thanks for posting.

[sethhope]

Got her running and on the road again. Shes leaking oil everywhere, but shes running. I think at this point it's just down to me tightening everything down.

So what have we learned?

Jumping time causes valves to bend.

Lining up the dot on the cam is not the only thing to line up. Not listed in the book, theres a mark on the sproket that needs to be up as well. This will cause bent valves if not lined up.

Valves arent that bad to work on once the head is off the bike


Thanks to everyone for your helpful words of wisdom. And a special thanks to Eastcoaster for helping relap and replace my valves.

[Eastcoaster]

he is back on the road

Yup we spent about 4 hours in the shop yesterday That was a ton of bent valves I had to pull some from my spare motor to get him back on the road.
The oil leak appears to be from the lower bolt on the oil tube to the head thinking a copper washer got missed Seth will check it out tonight but seems minor.
I am on the hunt for some good valves to replace my stash this double whammy wiped me out if anyone comes across some let me know I will no doubt bend a few myself.

Thanks to all for your input Seth is back on the road

[sethhope]

I drove her to work and it started to rain when I was driving home. I don't have a garage to work in tonight, so ill check it out tomorrow if it stops raining.

[sethhope]

https://www.instagram.com/p/BPWW0CRhPVF/

Heres a quick clip of her running today

[3Phase]

Nice, very nice and it sounds good too!

[Bonz]

Say, that bike looks ready to join the Colorado rally in mid July. Interested?

If you're losing oil from a washer missing then you know what to do. If the washer is leaking, anneal (soften) it with a propane torch. Red hot, then air cool.

Annealed the exhaust flange gaskets for the ZRX last weekend, getting ready to reinstall the header after putting in higher compression pistons. Those gaskets are dang near dead soft now. Extremely malleable. Is there such a thing as too soft for an application like that?

Awesome job Seth. Sorry for the mini hi Jack on the question

[sethhope]

Say, that bike looks ready to join the Colorado rally in mid July. Interested?

If you're losing oil from a washer missing then you know what to do. If the washer is leaking, anneal (soften) it with a propane torch. Red hot, then air cool.

Annealed the exhaust flange gaskets for the ZRX last weekend, getting ready to reinstall the header after putting in higher compression pistons. Those gaskets are dang near dead soft now. Extremely malleable. Is there such a thing as too soft for an application like that?

Awesome job Seth. Sorry for the mini hi Jack on the question

I would love to join the rally, but Colorado is a bit far for me to comfortably go at this point. I am possibly joining XSNE though. So there's that

[motoman]

Nice mods on the ZRX Howard...............unfortunately, my bet is 39yrs. from now, doubtful it'll still be rollin' down the road like the XS11's.

[Bonz]

I'll be a couple years from knocking on the door of 90 years after old in 39 years.
My 2001 ZRX1200 is 15 years old now, only 24 years to go for 39.

Heck yes the ZRX will be around for its 39th birthday. I dare say it has a gigantic active forum membership that dwarfs us here at XS11.com, so the energy and excitement is there the in full force.

The ZRX1100 itself was introduced in 1999 in the USA, based on the ZX-11 engine that ran from 1990-2001. The ZX11 was THE fastest bike in the world until the Hayabusa. Still, 175-178 mph ain't bad... guys use ZX11 parts to hop up the ZRX1100. Lots of ZX11's, not as many ZRX110's.

Then Kawasaki bored it out to the 1200, the ZRX1200 ran from 2001-2005. In 2002-2005 Kawasaki replaced the ZX11 with the ZZR1200 (fastest carbureted bike in production history) using the same engine cases/block from the newer ZRX1200 but bigger carbs, higher compression pistons, hotter cams, different ignition curve, double valve springs, 1000 rpm higher redline (11,500 rpm) and ram air.

Lot's of ZRX 1200's compared to ZRX1100's, but not near as many ZZR1200's to scavenge parts from for us ZRX 1200 owners.

I have put all of the above on the ZRX, other than ram air which I don't know how to fabricate for the ZRX since the ZZR has a full fairing and gas under the seat to use in ducting the air back to the airbox.

Anyway, it has been a journey that is complete in terms of engine work with the ZZR1200 pistons and double valve springs to go with everything else listed above.

Should dyno at the rear wheel 145-150 hp and 87-89 ft/lbs of torque. Stock was 112 hp and 79 ft/lbs at the wheel.