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  • Suspicious vacuum line

    Hey Guys - and Gals - today I discovered a vacuum line connected to the number 4 carb inlet vacuum port (right hand carburetor) on my 1979 XS11F (standard). The vacuum line goes down towards the gearbox but isn't hooked up to anything. It's just open to the atmosphere!

    My impression was the outer two carb inlet vacuum ports should be capped off? Huh?

    Thanks!
    79 F

  • #2
    Goes to the right petcock vacuum valve..
    Greg

    Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

    ― Albert Einstein

    80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

    The list changes.

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    • #3
      The petcock vac lines are already hooked to the inner two carb boots. This is a third vac line connected to the outer carb boot on one end and nothing on the other end. Weird!
      79 F

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      • #4
        Get rid of the line and cap the # 4 port.
        2H7 (79) owned since '89
        3H3 owned since '06

        "If it ain't broke, modify it"

        Comment


        • #5
          Is the line for the vacuum advance mechanism still connected to the nipple on the body of carb #2?
          Ken Talbot

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          • #6
            The petcock vac lines are hooked up to the two inner carb boots. The suspicious line goes from the right outer carb boot to nothing . . . Open to atmosphere. I am assuming the vac ports on the two outer carb boots are supposed to be capped off?
            79 F

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            • #7
              Buy the OEM port caps.

              Originally posted by Padre4art View Post
              supposed to be capped off?
              Yes. Cap it off as previously indicated by BikerPhil.

              NOTE: I have found that the cheapo rubber vacuum caps found at auto parts stores like Autozone, Advance Auto, etc. work just fine for a short period of time. But they will fail and leak relatively quickly. This is especially true if you pull them off/on a couple times to tune/sync the carbs etc.

              The OEM Yamaha port caps are much thicker and better designed for that hot area of the bike. The OEM caps are a couple bucks each but well worth it and still readily available from Parzilla.com and other similar retailers.

              KURT
              Kurt Boehringer
              Peachtree City, Georgia

              1970 - CT70K0 - Mini-Trail
              1978 - SR500 - Thumper
              1979 - CT70H - Mini-Trail
              1979 - XS1100SF - Pensacola
              1980 - XS850SG - Rocky
              1980 - XS1100SG - The Ugly Duck
              1980 - XS1100SG - Mayberry Duck
              1981 - XS1100SH - DEAD Duck Cafe'
              1981 - XJ550 Maxim - Nancy's Mini-Max
              1982 - XJ650 SECA - Hurricane
              1986 - FJ1200 - Georgia Big Red
              1992 - FZR1000 - Genesis
              2016 - FJR1300A - Montgomery

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              • #8
                There is a breather hose that goes from the transmission (?) to the plate where the rear mounting of the gas tank is. It is open to the atmosphere. Just so you know. It is open on the upper end.
                Skids (Sid Hansen)

                Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

                Comment


                • #9
                  There is a breather hose that goes from the transmission (?) to the plate where the rear mounting of the gas tank is.
                  It's actually from the middle drive, and it NEEDS to go up to the tank. My '79 had it going down when I first got it, and it sucked water into the middle drive and spewed gunk all over the bike on a "quick" ride down to Solvang.
                  As stated: #1&4 should be capped, #2&3 go to the petcocks, and vacuum line from #2 CARB BODY goes to the vacuum advance/retard under the left crank cover.
                  And yes, use GOOD plugs, but change them about every ten years, as they WILL get hard and leak.
                  Ray Matteis
                  KE6NHG
                  XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
                  XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by DiverRay View Post
                    It's actually from the middle drive, and it NEEDS to go up to the tank. My '79 had it going down when I first got it, and it sucked water into the middle drive and spewed gunk all over the bike on a "quick" ride down to Solvang.
                    As stated: #1&4 should be capped, #2&3 go to the petcocks, and vacuum line from #2 CARB BODY goes to the vacuum advance/retard under the left crank cover.
                    And yes, use GOOD plugs, but change them about every ten years, as they WILL get hard and leak.
                    trbig had that happen coming back from XS Southeast once. He had the middle drive vented under the bike. Sucked up water and turned the gear oil to milk.
                    Greg

                    Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

                    ― Albert Einstein

                    80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

                    The list changes.

                    Comment

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