How to lubricate the XS/XJ 1100 speedometer drive and internal parts.
Spray oil, silicon, lithium grease, or your own special lubricant of choice between the speedometer input coupler shaft and the coupler outer casing.
Tightly wrap a cloth or some plastic film around the input casing threads and the small straw for the spray lube.
That should help to force the spray up between the outer casing and the input shaft, then onto the input shaft drive worm gear and odometer driven worm gear.
Do not spray into the blind hole for the speedometer cable, it will just shoot back out and lubricate your face and hands.
Lithium grease will last longer than oil or silicone spray but it will bubble and outgas as it settles onto the parts.
Except for whatever can flow back down and out around the input shaft, the speedometer housing is sealed cannot drain so don't overdo it with the lube.
Too much of any lubricant can contaminate the odometer/trip meter number wheels, the glass cover and the faceplate.
You may be able to open up the speedometer and clean the glass and the number wheels but you will never get it off of the black paint on the faceplate.
The internal parts are difficult or impossible to access without disassembling the speedometer.
The speedometer indicator needle movement is controlled and damped by an adjustable coil spring on the indicator needle shaft.
The spinning magnet on the speedometer input shaft rotates the bell on the indicator shaft and pulses the
turn signal self-cancel reed switch Closed/Open.
The odometer and trip meter number wheels are moved by a series of worm gears driven by the input shaft.
When the speedometer screams before it grenades, that's the input drive shaft binding in the input casing and if it hasn't done it already, destroying the odometer worm gear.
Spray oil, silicon, lithium grease, or your own special lubricant of choice between the speedometer input coupler shaft and the coupler outer casing.
Tightly wrap a cloth or some plastic film around the input casing threads and the small straw for the spray lube.
That should help to force the spray up between the outer casing and the input shaft, then onto the input shaft drive worm gear and odometer driven worm gear.
Do not spray into the blind hole for the speedometer cable, it will just shoot back out and lubricate your face and hands.
Lithium grease will last longer than oil or silicone spray but it will bubble and outgas as it settles onto the parts.
Except for whatever can flow back down and out around the input shaft, the speedometer housing is sealed cannot drain so don't overdo it with the lube.
Too much of any lubricant can contaminate the odometer/trip meter number wheels, the glass cover and the faceplate.
You may be able to open up the speedometer and clean the glass and the number wheels but you will never get it off of the black paint on the faceplate.
The internal parts are difficult or impossible to access without disassembling the speedometer.
The speedometer indicator needle movement is controlled and damped by an adjustable coil spring on the indicator needle shaft.
The spinning magnet on the speedometer input shaft rotates the bell on the indicator shaft and pulses the
turn signal self-cancel reed switch Closed/Open.
The odometer and trip meter number wheels are moved by a series of worm gears driven by the input shaft.
When the speedometer screams before it grenades, that's the input drive shaft binding in the input casing and if it hasn't done it already, destroying the odometer worm gear.
Comment