LED Headlight flicker? (No brand name - similar to TruckLite 27270C/Kuryakyn Phase 7)

[Andy_WI]

I've tried to search forum first before posting this but I couldn't find anything. I've purchased off eBay some 7" LED headlight apparently made in China and it looks identical to TruckLite 27270C headlight. I have installed it and I've compared it with my friend's Kuryakyn Phase 7 on his H-D Heritage Classic. Light output looks the same. This light is not DOT approved and it can be purchased on eBay and Amazon. However I ran into one issue - which could be considered as LED flicker? Here is what's happening: after I've installed it - my headlight warning (dummy) light came on the dash (it's 1980 Special) and my high beam indicator is half way lit up (it's dim but I can see it's glowing). My LED headlight has low beam section/LEDs are on and high beams section is on too but it's not all the way on, like high beams are half way powered. Now the interesting part: when my revs are too low (forgetting to put petcock into ON position and sucking all fuel from bowls) and/or when I press brakes (front or rear) and if I turn on my turn signals - my headlight warning light turns off, high beam indication goes away and the headlight has low beams only. When high beams are on everything works like it should - no headlight warning light, high beams identification light is on in full illumination.
I'd think that when there's some power consumption LED headlight works like it should but when there's just lights it's like getting way too much juice. I don't know if that makes sense. None of that were happening with regular incandescent headlight. Could this be defined as LED flicker? Should I be getting one of these LED anti-flicker devices? I really like this headlight and I'd like to make it work properly. I am lost here.
Thanks

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Andy,

Your headlight checker unit is causing the problem. It's designed to sense when the main low beam filament burns out....NO LOAD, and it then switches the power to the HIGH BEAM filament, but at reduced power, and turns on the headlight bulb on the dash to let you know your low beam is out. SO..the low load of the LED headlight tricks the sensor into thinking the low beam filament is out, and sends partial current to the high beam...which is probably what is causing your flickering affect. When you switch to the HIGH BEAM mode, then ALL of the power is sent to the LEDS, and it shines like it should along with the high beam indicator.

SO....you will probably need to bypass the headlight checker circuit so your low beam circuit will get the full power it needs.

T.C.

[bikerphil]

I would try bypassing the RLU (reserve lighting unit), it's under the tank behind the voltage regulator, Unplug it and jumper the blu/blk and the blu/yel in the harness plug. The LED you have is probably playing tricks with it.

[Dbshea]

I had to bypass the rlu for my KC led headlight. I didn't exhibit all of those other oddities you do but it definitely confused the high beam indicator.

[timktm]

Is the TruckLite 27270C a drop in to the Vetter fairing as well?
Thanks,
Tim

[Dbshea]

Is the TruckLite 27270C a drop in to the Vetter fairing as well?
Thanks,
Tim

I don't see why it wouldn't be. I helped install the exact same 7" LED lite that I have in a vetter. Drop in replacement.

[IanDMacDonald]

I have my RLU bypassed, and I have flicker on High beam at idle. It is what it is.

[Andy_WI]

Thank you so much for the information on RLU (reserve lighting unit). I was thinking adding a resistor but I will go ahead and bypass it.
I am also planning to add a pair of LED driving lights and I am installing my Vetter this upcoming weekend. I will post later after bypass procedure and I'll check if my headlight flickers at high beam at idle.

[Andy_WI]

I have unplugged RLU (reserve lighting unit) and jumpered blu/blk and blu/yel. It worked - no warning light, LED headlight works in low beam only. In high beam - works accordingly. However, I've got a new issue now.
After switching my low/hi beams with my handlebar switch I lost all of my head and dash/gauges lights. The fuse was blown - I still have original tube fuses. It was 9A fuse. I have also noticed that there's sometimes a split second black out between switching from low to high beams and back. In that period of time all lights go out. I put the spare fuse and finally headed home from work. I've ridden bike 2 days ago (50 miles - my first ride after purchase and all fixin') and I have not had any delays between switching low and high beams and there were no problems with the fuse. Unfortunately there was some incoming traffic at 1:30AM and I had to switch from high beams to low beams. I've lost my lights and last 1 mile ride home was in a pitch black but blinkers do put out some light.
So it looks like my headlight switch is giving me trouble or should I consider switching to blade fuses and possibly run a relay? I have checked my headlight switch - it's just a spring loaded mechanism and there's nothing special about it, am I right?

[MPittma100]

Check the amperage draw of the new light. Should be in the literature. Compare that to the old light. If it is more, may need the relay. Considerable trouble as these bikes are not wired for this upgrade.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Mike,

The OLD Halogen H4's were 55/60Watts, at 12V, that's ~4.5 to 5 amps on the headlight circuit that's fused for 10 amps.

I've done some research on the LEDs, they have high power LEDS in them, usually a total of 4, each one is usually rated at 1 amp, so a total of 4 amps when running full set of low/high beams combined....so....IMHO....the regular headlight circuit/wiring should have no problem handling the LED load.

Andy, take apart your handlebar switch,and check the wires and their solder connections to the contact board in the switch....they are known to come unsoldered and then can short or make intermittent contact which could be blowing the fuses.

T.C.

[DiverRay]

Also, DO UPGRADE THE FUSE BOX!!!!! Get with topCat and order one of his fuse boxes. If you want to put on the "flag" type connector he supplies, I can send you the tool if you can pay shipping, about $10 round trip USPS. Without the proper tool, it's impossible to properly crimp the connectors. Send me a pm if you are going that direction with your USPS address and I'll send you my tool to use.

[MPittma100]

Tool

Also, DO UPGRADE THE FUSE BOX!!!!! Get with topCat and order one of his fuse boxes. If you want to put on the "flag" type connector he supplies, I can send you the tool if you can pay shipping, about $10 round trip USPS. Without the proper tool, it's impossible to properly crimp the connectors. Send me a pm if you are going that direction with your USPS address and I'll send you my tool to use.

Hi Ray,

Could you post a picture of the crimping tool for us? Where can it be purchased?

Thanks, Mike

[DiverRay]

Mike, here is a link to one on Amazon, the tool is decent china made. https://www.amazon.com/ProsKit-300-0.../dp/B0045VAAO6
the search I used was "flag wire crimp tool". I've had mine for a few years, and I don't remember the cost exactly. I know it was around $40 to $50 though. The ProsKit line is actually pretty good, as the company I used to work for had a lot of their products. We had very little problems in a production environment with them.
The search will show a LOT of tools, but look at ratings! You also need to know how to load the terminal properly, but that's just looking and common sense.

[MPittma100]

Flag Terminal Pliers

Mike, here is a link to one on Amazon, the tool is decent china made. https://www.amazon.com/ProsKit-300-0.../dp/B0045VAAO6
the search I used was "flag wire crimp tool". I've had mine for a few years, and I don't remember the cost exactly. I know it was around $40 to $50 though. The ProsKit line is actually pretty good, as the company I used to work for had a lot of their products. We had very little problems in a production environment with them.
The search will show a LOT of tools, but look at ratings! You also need to know how to load the terminal properly, but that's just looking and common sense.

Thanks Ray. Good information.