The resurrection of a junkyard XS1100.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Lambda,

A few more questions. Did you get a 3 prong or a 2 prong electronic flasher?? The correct type is a 2 prong. Yamaha uses the 3 leg for the self cancelling feature, but you can't find a generic automotive unit with that circuitry, so the 2 prong is the type you want.

Secondly, you said you got new lights....aftermarket I will assume. The front lights are dual filament design....for running lights...the blue wire, and also turn signals, the brown and green wires. The rears are ONLY turn signal lights, no running lights. If you got just single filament signals only, then you will need to NOT have the blue wires connected, just the green/brown ones. If you have the blue ones connected along with the green/brown ones, that can be part of the problem. Also, check the grounds for the lights. The oem design had the ground wires going to a large O ring/washer around the mounting shaft....but can corrode/rust both inside the headlight bucket, as well as in the underside of the rear fender. At least that's how it is on the specials....not positive if it's the same way for your "E".

T.C.

[LambdaMatters]

Check what the voltage is with it running.
It sounds like the alternator is drawing power from the system but the rotor or stater would have to be very badly shorted to draw as much as it sounds like it is from your description.

I will check this tomorrow, there is a voltage drop somewhere. I suppose i should be a little more clear, with the turn signals off and the engine running the rears are dimly lit, while the front markers stay on and bright. If i turn on the signal the rear left or right will light up with no blink. Feels like i may need to do some surgery on the old wiring.

[LambdaMatters]

Hey Lambda,

A few more questions. Did you get a 3 prong or a 2 prong electronic flasher?? The correct type is a 2 prong. Yamaha uses the 3 leg for the self cancelling feature, but you can't find a generic automotive unit with that circuitry, so the 2 prong is the type you want.

Yes i got a 2 prong, and yes i got single filament bulbs, and yes i connected the blues without thinking about it, i suppose they may be feeding voltage into my relay?

I suppose i need to ground the bulbs instead of connecting the blue wires?

[ViperRon]

If what was suggested does not work there is another place you may look. I had very similar issue when I hooked up my lights after a long time sitting. The switch assembly on the handlebar the grease had hardened and the contacts corroded. I took the assembly apart sprayed it out with electrical contact cleaner and put it in a soak of Tarnex for a day. Took it out of soak sprayed it out with electrical contact cleaner again. and problem was gone so I went back in and lubed to slide assembly and no more issues except for one light I had to take the bulb assembly apart can clean the contacts in a similar way.

[motoman]

I will check this tomorrow, there is a voltage drop somewhere. I suppose i should be a little more clear, with the turn signals off and the engine running the rears are dimly lit, while the front markers stay on and bright. If i turn on the signal the rear left or right will light up with no blink. Feels like i may need to do some surgery on the old wiring.

That voltage drop IS notoriously at the RUN/STOP switch on the right side bars. THIS voltage drop due to dirty brass contacts in switch. This switch also completes the running circuit......at all times. Just to eliminate this as the issue, I suggest you remove, take apart(carelul of teeny internal spring), either clean manually, or soak all pieces in a shot glass full of Evapor-Rust overnite. Then remove pieces and wash with water, followed by a blow-dry. Re-assemble and install. May be surprised to see signals,etc. work as they should.

[motoman]

That voltage drop IS notoriously at the RUN/STOP switch on the right side bars. THIS voltage drop due to dirty brass contacts in switch. This switch also completes the running circuit......at all times. Just to eliminate this as the issue, I suggest you remove, take apart(carelul of teeny internal spring), either clean manually, or soak all pieces in a shot glass full of Evapor-Rust overnite. Then remove pieces and wash with water, followed by a blow-dry. Re-assemble and install. May be surprised to see signals,etc. work as they should.

BTW, while at my place for several days, 3Phase(Scott) was who using his volt meter, found the low voltage issue on my Venturer(signal flash either worked slow, or occasionally stayed on with no flashing).This also affected perfect running of bike.

[LambdaMatters]

Fixed.

Well i did have the blues connected in the circuit so that was why everything was haywire, cleaned switches anyway. Now i need some exhausts. Do i need to use the exact set for this bike or is there some from other years that will work without jetting up the carbs? My main issue with syncing the carbs has been a rusted out exhaust on one side.

[motoman]

Well i did have the blues connected in the circuit so that was why everything was haywire, cleaned switches anyway. Now i need some exhausts. Do i need to use the exact set for this bike or is there some from other years that will work without jetting up the carbs? My main issue with syncing the carbs has been a rusted out exhaust on one side.

If header pipes not rusted with holes, then aftermarket mufflers of choice will work fine with no jetting change,(Mac,etc.).
FWIW, I have a new set of Jardine muffs with cross-over,clamps,etc. still in the factory box wrapped with plastic. They are for the 80G, but would be plug'n'play for your model and yr. also. As a set, if interested, send a PM.