Project Lucy

[NorCoaster]

Right on. I'll look into that once I get to Washington.

Also. Bearing/seal/o-ring update. I got the drive side seal and both o-rings already. Will have right side bearing tomorrow, the right side seal the next day. All from Yamaha dealers for a decent price. And then the NA5904 drive side bearing will be here on Thurs through Applied Industrial Technologies

[NorCoaster]

Photo Update 4

Enjoy!

https://imgur.com/a/IkCMf

[3Phase]

Enjoy!

https://imgur.com/a/IkCMf

Nice photoset!

Is that warped plastic piece one leg of the air box spider? Anyway it looks like it's just plastic. You can clamp the edges together, hit it with a heat gun or a hair drier to convince it to stay that way after it cools and it might be alright.

The Loctite LB 8012 #51048 is a good tip if you don't have or can't find the Honda Moly60. It's a little stiff to use by itself for final drive splines but so is the Honda60. That one bottle should last longer than you will if you just paint it on like the Honda stuff, then bulk fill/pack using your favorite high-temp grease with moly, moly-graph, or no moly at all'y, it's up to you.

Anti-seize and fasteners: I think you used a little too much copper grease but you're the one that'll have to clean it after it heats up and oozes out around the threads. It does make it easier to loosen bolts but copper's so much fun to clean off that I think you should do all the bolts that way.

Grease and Loctite don't mix but if you're just using the grease to seal "normal" nuts and bolts that you don't want to rust or seize then Loctite's got some wicking, high-temp, low-strength, thread sealers. They're not as cheap, convenient, and easy to use as grease and you can't -- okay, shouldn't -- use them for sparkplugs or electrical fasteners but they'll work just as well or better than grease without the mess and the rags.

Keep the pictures coming!

[NorCoaster]

Thanks 3Phase!

That is one of the spider legs. All of them popped at the seams so I just decided to run the hose to the beginning of the driveshaft swingarm...away from the brake and tire. Saves me time and saves me from ever having to deal with the godforsaken thing whenever I pull the air box apart.

I found that stuff for $25 after looking at a whole metric crap ton of MSDS sheets for different greases. I definitely didn't want to spend $18 for 2oz of the Honda Moly60...

I actually use relatively little anti seize. Sure, I'll glob it on initially, but I always wipe it in with my fingers to avoid creating any hydraulic pressure at the tip of the bolt(regardless of whether that bolt tip gets close enough to another surface to do so).

I've actually got a small tube of that green loctite that I've been using here and there. Stuff is awesome.

Tomorrow is the beginning of the big push though. Everything is back together besides the brakes, rear wheel(tire and bearings), and the handlebars. Once those are done, I'm syncing the carbs, giving her a bath, and then out for a decent shakedown run to see if I need to adjust anything

[3Phase]

... That is one of the spider legs. All of them popped at the seams ...

Ouch, better you than me. Note to self: No spiders and hot water.

Take your time putting it all back together, brakes and bearings are sort of important. If you get stuck and can't remember how it goes together just ask or look at the parts fiche on Partzilla while you think about it.


The biggest issues I had to just get over and deal with using Loctite is that it's not reusable like grease or oil and most of my favorite fasteners are supposed to use activator. That's two extra things but since they came up with the wicking formulas that work after you put things together it's a lot easier. And sticks. Sticks! It's Loctite! On a stick! That's something I can keep and actually use without throwing in the towel and going back to the darkened greasy side.

[NorCoaster]

Haha I don't think the hot water did anything, but that it was the ultrasonic part that did it.

Already planning on using a parts fiche for the rear wheel. Everything else is easy. Hell, I once tore apart chain and gear picking winch that had 108 loose roller bearings and completely cleaned and reassembled it with only two photos for reference

I'm a HUGE fan of loctite, but only use it sparingly. And I love using wire wheels so cleaning off the old cruddy stuff is fun to me haha

[NorCoaster]

Sorry for the delay fellas, but I've been a damn chicken with my head cut off since Friday. Lucy is running GREAT though! I'll have wifi later today so I'll upload a bunch of photos then.

Also, anybody have a clue as to why my headlight switches to just the outer "high beam" light and cuts out the main low beam light?

[3Phase]

... Also, anybody have a clue as to why my headlight switches to just the outer "high beam" light and cuts out the main low beam light?

Well, yeah, I do but:

When does it change the filaments to High?

How is the High/Low switch set on the left-hand handlebar control?


Does the White Head failure light on the instrument cluster come on full or just glow?

Full on means one of the headlight filaments failed but the headlight was switched to the other filament so you have light.

Glowing is normal and means everything is working.

If it doesn't glow at all it probably means the Headlight Relay didn't turn on when the engine started and you're riding with no headlight. Or the bulb is burned out/wiring fault.

Aren't you glad you asked?

[NorCoaster]

It glows and low beam works perfect. It's when I switch it to high that the low beam cuts out and only the additional high beam comes on

[NorCoaster]

On the road...

[DiverRay]

I think some of the later models did that to keep the voltage up. Sounds notmal to me, but hey, I only have a '78 left.....

[3Phase]

I like that picture.


I don't know what's up with the headlight. My 1980SG Special schematic shows the filaments at the Hi/Lo switch are in parallel through the RLU., My '80G Standard schematic is the same but I honestly don't remember if it's supposed run both filaments or just one at a time. It did melt the fuse clips in a new fuse block I put in so I think it runs both at a little over 8A continuous for a 55W/60W lamp.

[NorCoaster]

Well. Both would turn on for high beam before I swapped bulbs. It's 9003 H4, just not with the P43T base, but I modified it(aka cut off enough) to make it fit...that wouldn't have anything to do with it, would it?