Getting an 80' sg tomorrow...

[ERM83]

PRETTY PSYCHED on it. I'm still working on the SF, but couldn't pass this up. If all goes well, the SF will be my winter project instead. Here's it's deal:

Has about 20,000 miles...it's ALL original. It sat in a garage for a decade, and hasn't been run for that long. Engine turns just fine.

Cosmetically looks like it's been sitting for a while, but the paint is actually in really good shape.

Getting it for $600.

So besides the basic stuff (carb work, new battery, fresh oil / gas), anything else important to check on that i'm missing or forgetting?? I've never worked on a sitting bike, and I know this might sound like a stupid question! By the way, thank you all for getting me addicted to these things...I've gotta stop! I've been drooling over ANOTHER SF that's for sale around here in pretty good shape, haha. I only have room for two!!

I only have one pic of it at the moment...the bike is parked in tight quarters at the moment, so it was hard to get a good pic. i'll post it in a sec anyway, and will post more tomorrow!

Eric

[ERM83]

Here it is...and like I said, i'll post more tomorrow when I get'er to the garage. Tips on cleaning up the surfaces of the engine are also appreciated!

[motoman]

Looks like a decent project for you. I see that the seat has already been recovered at some time or other.

[ERM83]

Looks like a decent project for you. I see that the seat has already been recovered at some time or other.

Yeah, I was REALLY happy when I saw that. The only thing i'm going to change on this thing is the handlebars. I was playing around with the idea of putting the 79' carbs on it...I JUST rebuilt them. Probably not, though. Ideally, i'd like to get one of these bikes running within the month. I think I have a better chance at getting this one going a lot faster.

[DiverRay]

If the '79 carbs are rebuilt, USE THEM! They can actually be tuned better than the '80's. That WILL speed up the time needed to get this one running.
1. Check BRAKES front and rear. The fronts may try to "stick", so plan on cleaning front calipers and master cyl. at the minimum. Replace ALL the brake fluid!
2. Pull spark plugs and squirt about 2 tablespoons of 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone down each hole, then put plugs back in about two turns and leave overnight. This will help loosen the rings and soften any rust so things will re-seat quickly.
3. Oil drain ONLY, NO FILTER! Put in cheap dino oil for starting the first time or two.
4. Drain middle and final drives and replace with synthetic 75-140 gear oil.
5. Check tank, add AT LEAST 2 gallons of fresh REGULAR (89 octane) gas to an empty tank.
6. Pull plugs again, and turn over engine for about 10 seconds. Have the spark plugs on top of the head so they can spark, but put a rag over the engine to catch the ATF mixture as it blows out.
7. With everything installed, fire up the engine and set/sync the carbs. Don't forget the fan to keep the engine cool.
8. Oil and filter change with 20-50 Castrol, or your favorite brand.
9. Ride it like you stole it for about 500 miles, keeping an eye on the oil level to reseat the rings.
10. ENJOY YOUR BIKE!!

[ERM83]

If the '79 carbs are rebuilt, USE THEM! They can actually be tuned better than the '80's. That WILL speed up the time needed to get this one running.
1. Check BRAKES front and rear. The fronts may try to "stick", so plan on cleaning front calipers and master cyl. at the minimum. Replace ALL the brake fluid!
2. Pull spark plugs and squirt about 2 tablespoons of 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone down each hole, then put plugs back in about two turns and leave overnight. This will help loosen the rings and soften any rust so things will re-seat quickly.
3. Oil drain ONLY, NO FILTER! Put in cheap dino oil for starting the first time or two.
4. Drain middle and final drives and replace with synthetic 75-140 gear oil.
5. Check tank, add AT LEAST 2 gallons of fresh REGULAR (89 octane) gas to an empty tank.
6. Pull plugs again, and turn over engine for about 10 seconds. Have the spark plugs on top of the head so they can spark, but put a rag over the engine to catch the ATF mixture as it blows out.
7. With everything installed, fire up the engine and set/sync the carbs. Don't forget the fan to keep the engine cool.
8. Oil and filter change with 20-50 Castrol, or your favorite brand.
9. Ride it like you stole it for about 500 miles, keeping an eye on the oil level to reseat the rings.
10. ENJOY YOUR BIKE!!

Ray, you are THE MAN once again! Any specific brand of ATF?? Also, "oil drain only, no filter, use cheap dino oil" so, leave the filter / housing off while ?? not sure what you meant here...

[DiverRay]

Cheap ATF, GM is what I use because I can also use it in power steering in my car. Leave the oil filter ON at first, the little bit of old oil in it shouldn't make much difference as you are not going to ride it, or at least not more that 10 minutes, before changing everything again.
Oh, and I forgot, NEW TIRES!! No matter WHAT they look like, they ARE bad! They will handle like you are on ice!

[ERM83]

Cheap ATF, GM is what I use because I can also use it in power steering in my car. Leave the oil filter ON at first, the little bit of old oil in it shouldn't make much difference as you are not going to ride it, or at least not more that 10 minutes, before changing everything again.
Oh, and I forgot, NEW TIRES!! No matter WHAT they look like, they ARE bad! They will handle like you are on ice!

ahhhhhh, I gotcha. I've been researching the sg's all day, got called off from work, so looks like i'm gonna crack a beer and keep going! I'm pretty bummed about my sf (head is jacked...need a new one), but the 80 had me pretty pumped. Glad to hear that the 79' carbs are easier to work with, because I went to town cleaning / rebuilding them! not to mention incessantly reading posts about them on here. the pick-up / transfer got pushed back to sunday, but i'll definitely post progress!

[ERM83]

better pictures

so, I was wrong about the exhaust...definitely a mac. my sf has the same one. the throttle on it will not budge, so i'll look into that after I get the carbs ready. there IS a VERY small spot of rust in the tank, so I have to get it re-lined. I do have inline fuel filters, at least (or should I use the other tank to tune??).







actually transporting it in a couple of hours. no band practice tonight, so i'm getting started on it immediately!

[wingnut]

Sweet find for a great price. Those 79 carbs will work just fine so that is done. A little time and $ and you will have a runner. Next step is to get it running so you can test the trans before you get to wrapped up in the other stuff.

[ERM83]

Sweet find for a great price. Those 79 carbs will work just fine so that is done. A little time and $ and you will have a runner. Next step is to get it running so you can test the trans before you get to wrapped up in the other stuff.

absolutely, man! i'll probably ask some more questions...the front brake doesn't work at all (may just use the assembly from the 79 if it fits). I have a new master cylinder that I can use, so i'll try to get that done as well.

[Radioguylogs]

Congratulations

.... there IS a VERY small spot of rust in the tank, so I have to get it re-lined....

ERM83:

It's exciting to poke around a newly purchased project. I can really relate.

You may already have decided you want to coat the inside of the gas tank- but I wanted to remark it's not necessary unless you want to.

All of my bikes had significant rust in the tanks. I removed it with Evapo-Rust (and electrolysis for the really bad one), and I keep them full as much as I can. I don't have any problems with the rust coming back. I am adverse to sealers because they can peel; then you really have a mess.

Don't get me wrong, a lot folk like the tank sealers and they have good results.

I'm just happen to prefer the bare tank.

[DiverRay]

the front brake doesn't work at all (may just use the assembly from the 79 if it fits)

Front AND rear brakes WILL need to be rebuilt!! There is no shortcut! Remove the front calipers from the forks, keep fluid in the master, put a block of wood into one caliper and start pulling the brake handle. When it looks like the first piston is almost all the way out, put in a thin block to keep it from moving, and remove the block from the other caliper. Go back to pulling the brake until #2 is ready to come out.
Once you have both out, you can CLEAN the grove the seal fits into. You will probably find bumps on the inside of the grove, and these need to be flat! I use a cheap, flat screw driver that I'v ground the shoulder off so it just fits the grove, and bent it about 1" from the end so it's easy to scrap with it.
Once clean, use new brake fluid to clean the seal, scraping it with a finger nail to get off all the junk from the aluminum.
Re-assemble, bleed, and you should be good to stop.

[Dbshea]

ERM83:

It's exciting to poke around a newly purchased project. I can really relate.

You may already have decided you want to coat the inside of the gas tank- but I wanted to remark it's not necessary unless you want to.

All of my bikes had significant rust in the tanks. I removed it with Evapo-Rust (and electrolysis for the really bad one), and I keep them full as much as I can. I don't have any problems with the rust coming back. I am adverse to sealers because they can peel; then you really have a mess.

Don't get me wrong, a lot folk like the tank sealers and they have good results.

I'm just happen to prefer the bare tank.

I second the non liner options. I've had GREAT results with evaporust.

[ERM83]

Ahhhhhhh, NOOOO...

Decided first thing before I took the U-Haul back, I was going to pull the plugs, and put the acetone/ATF mix down in there. Every plug came out pretty easily... EXCEPT number two. Threads were JACKED. I've had bad luck with tapping in the past...heli-coil?? Need some advice...so bummed!