This is to show how the tachometers are made.
Yamaha XS1100 Tachometer






I don't have any pictures of the bottom end of the tachometer 'motor' with the Red wire.
The bottom is almost identical to the top with a coiled hairspring but it has a very fine bearing where the armature rests. The lower bearing doubles as an electrical contact for the Red wire just like the top bearing does for the Black wire but the spring and armature bearing preloads are both adjusted and set at the top and the bottom is not adjustable.
When the lower bearing gets worn, dirty and/or sticks after rotating, bouncing and vibrating or just sitting for who knows how many years then the armature will move slowly, stick or even briefly lose electrical contact and bounce. The needle will do all sorts of strange things but mostly it'll bounce, stick or drag.
Anything that's leaked, sprayed, blown, flowed, glopped or dunked into the housing finds its way to the lower bearing.
It's just the mechanical side of the tachometer but that's what little tachs are made of.
.
Yamaha XS1100 Tachometer






I don't have any pictures of the bottom end of the tachometer 'motor' with the Red wire.
The bottom is almost identical to the top with a coiled hairspring but it has a very fine bearing where the armature rests. The lower bearing doubles as an electrical contact for the Red wire just like the top bearing does for the Black wire but the spring and armature bearing preloads are both adjusted and set at the top and the bottom is not adjustable.
When the lower bearing gets worn, dirty and/or sticks after rotating, bouncing and vibrating or just sitting for who knows how many years then the armature will move slowly, stick or even briefly lose electrical contact and bounce. The needle will do all sorts of strange things but mostly it'll bounce, stick or drag.
Anything that's leaked, sprayed, blown, flowed, glopped or dunked into the housing finds its way to the lower bearing.
It's just the mechanical side of the tachometer but that's what little tachs are made of.

.
Comment