Clutch Slippage

[mwsxj1100j]

I hope everyone had a safe and happy 4th of July our nation's 240th birthday. It has been awhile since I posted but the issue I am having is that under a hard load the clutch will slip a bit. I know my xj11 isn't built for high speed but you always want to go fast from time to time. Now I am using 20w50 oil now since there is more traffic on the road than there was when the bike was new so the engine needs more protection than the 10w30 oil yamaha suggested in 1982. All the stop and go driving we do today is hell on the engine. Would replacing the fiber plates and maybe the springs eliminate this? Or should I just should I just be gentle with it, it only has 12,500 miles. Although this is unrelated I did adjust the cam chai tensioner I couldn't get the marks perfectly lined up I took out the plugs but i couldn't rotate the engine by hand but I adjusted it anyway I don't think their was much slack in the chain. Now the valve aren't in danger of hitting the Pistons right??? Thanks Much and enjoy the summer.

Matthew Scott

[Bonz]

Keep in mind Yamaha recommended a 20W40 oil for warmer temps and the 10W30 oil for cooler temps. A 20W50 is perfect. Also, if it is a 20 W 50 synthetic guys do say that can cause slippage. Don't ask me why, because it isn't that way with newer bikes but synthetic oil has caused some guys to say their clutch slips. Going back to a regular Dino oil fixes it.

As for the cam chain tensioner, if the cam chain jumps/has jumped a tooth you are in danger of valves hitting pistons. If the cam chain was very loose there sure is a chance it could jump. The fact the engine won't turn with the plugs out by hand gives me some concern and caution in how you proceed.

How are you trying to turn the engine? Are you on the center stand in fifth gear trying to rotate it that way? Should rotate very easily with no plugs in.

For the clutch, it could be the plates are glazed and despite the low miles if it wasn't cared for they sure could be slipping. If they are glazed, you can take them out and scuff them up to remove the glaze to expose new fiber.

I am sure someone else will be along to chime in and correct anything I have said that is not correct.

[ViperRon]

If you do a search here on clutch slippage you will find several write ups on what to look for mainly
Adjustment
Sticking cable
Synthetic oil
Rust or corrosion on fibers or plates

If the engine has been run for a long time with a clutch slip it can polish the plates or overheat the fibers to where the fibers look burnt ruffing them up and sanding on the plates may fix this. Other problem is synthetic oil over a long period is not good for cork fiber disks and the cork can develop issues to where it needs to be replaced. I would start with the simple things before tearing into it. Adjust it make sure cable and mechanics are not bent or binding. Change the oil. Clean the clutch assembly and check for damage before buying parts. When buying fibers remember the clutch is somewhat generic in design there may be fibers that will work that are not XS1100 only.

[TADracer]

Concerning the clutch slip, the plates rarely wear out of tolerance unless they were really abused. If the springs are still the original springs then a change to new ones might just make your slippage problem go away. New aftermarket/stronger springs are available and fairly inexpensive. Put it on the side stand and you don't even need to drain the oil to change them out. Worked for me a couple of years ago and as I recall the cost was only something like $20.00 +/-

[Dbshea]

Concerning the clutch slip, the plates rarely wear out of tolerance unless they were really abused. If the springs are still the original springs then a change to new ones might just make your slippage problem go away. New aftermarket/stronger springs are available and fairly inexpensive. Put it on the side stand and you don't even need to drain the oil to change them out. Worked for me a couple of years ago and as I recall the cost was only something like $20.00 +/-

Agreed. I put in new Barnett springs once I got my bike back on the road. With stockers I would outrun the clutch at anything over 4500 rpm and would even slip in a head wind. Didn't even bother pulling the basket to check the plates, put in new springs and she's happy as can be till redline.

[mwsxj1100j]

Easy???

Ronz you and I have two different ideas of easy. I did the plugs out 5th gear trick to rotate and line up the timing marks to adjust the cam chain. It took some muscling of the rear tire to line up the timing marks since I couldn't get the timing marks perfectly aligned the first time. But with only 12,500 miles on the clock I don't think there was much cam chain stretch the engine sounds the same. Maybe slightly quieter, but thanks for all the advice about the clutch plates and oil. I run Castrol 20w50 it says it's "formulated" for motorcycles. Now I just got to scrape some money together.

[Bigfoot]

The oil says it is made for a motorcycle, but... is it made for a motorcycle with a wet clutch? I have always used Valvoline 20w50 they sell for motorcycles with wet clutches. They sell it fairly cheap at walmart. The only time I ever had an issue is one time on a trip, topped off my oil at a stop using some of a buddies castrol gtx 20w50. Maybe half a quart at most. Immediately started slipping under hard acceleration until my next oil change. Much cheaper to try a different oil first, then if that doesn't work, buy the clutch parts IMHO.

As far as the cam chain. I have never had a problem rotating the engine over using a big wrench on the timing plate with the bike in neutral.

[DiverRay]

Real easy fix! REPLACE CLUTCH SPRINGS WITH BARNETT SPRINGS ONLY!!
Castrol 20-50 should be no problem. 30 year old springs are done! Just put it on the side stand AFTER you loosen the bolt holding the front pegs on, and remove the clutch cover, replace springs, put a little Yamabond on the cover and replace.
I've know a few of these that need springs just because of age.

[aqqus]

Some of the newer clutch sets are designed to work with the synthetic oils. They have different materials that work in the "slicker" environment. Using a synthetic oil in a machine not set up for it could cause some slippage. Going back to a conventional oil is one solution or upgrading to a clutch set designed for use with the synthetic oils.