Alright, y'all...getting closer to putting'er back together...

[ERM83]

So, I'm in the final stages of the (semi) top end rebuild. I've got everything besides my gaskets, and torque wrench...those will be ordered early this week. I wanted to ask for any advice / tips on this...aka, putting anything on the gaskets or what lubricant to use for the cam caps, etc. I'm still having a problem finding some new mufflers...the ones i have will work for tuning purposes, but the left side falls off while riding no matter how tight i clamp it down. i know i can get better clamps, but i wanted to get different mufflers anyway.

The mere thought of this thing even running is making me LITERALLY *expletive* shake with excitement! I can't wait. Next time i'm at the garage (probably tuesday), i'll take some progress pics. "superbike" bars have been installed, and I'm WAY into it. I need a new signal / headlight assembly for sure...right now the headlight is hard-wired to work as soon as the key is turned, because the headlight switch is broken off. need to fix that.

Thank you all, and happy 4th!!

[DiverRay]

For the oil in the caps, use the motor oil you are going to put in the engine, Castrol 20/50 or whatever your brand is. Head gasket should go on dry, and be SURE you have DTC for #1 on "T" mark! If you don't have the manual, I can probably scan a few pages and email them to you, as the next steps are VERY IMPORTANT! You do NOT want the valves and pistons trying to take up the same space at the same time!

[ERM83]

For the oil in the caps, use the motor oil you are going to put in the engine, Castrol 20/50 or whatever your brand is. Head gasket should go on dry, and be SURE you have DTC for #1 on "T" mark! If you don't have the manual, I can probably scan a few pages and email them to you, as the next steps are VERY IMPORTANT! You do NOT want the valves and pistons trying to take up the same space at the same time!

I do have a manual, but yours may be different, and I trust you guys more than anyone or anything when it comes to these bikes. Could you scan it for me, just to be safe?? MUCH appreciated! Thanks ray!! I've been studying up on this thing for like, 3 hour blocks A DAY getting prepared! OH...any kind of lube for the new head bolts?? Someone in a previous thread said some stuff called "kroil", but i saw a few other resources say to NOT use anything on them. Also, a good lead on a torque wrench that can start at 0ft lbs would be awesome, being that the manual states to do the acorn nuts in two stages, and the lower nuts have to be done at 7ft lbs in the first stage. I can't wait to work on this thing again...been on a week and a half long hiatus, because my brother was in town!

[DiverRay]

PM me your email and I'll send two files with 4 pages from the Yamaha Factory manual to you.

[3Phase]

Erm83,

Cleaned and lightly oiled threads, 30w is fine:



For the lower torque values you should buy or borrow a inch-pound torque wrench. Unless you spend a serious chunk of change on a foot-pound wrench it may not be accurate and more likely to strip or snap things and it can be unwieldy using a ft-lb wrench on smaller fasteners.

The range on a 1/4" drive Harbor Freight in-lb torque wrench is 20 to 200 in-lb and it works perfectly with a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter.

4.3 ft-lb is 51.6 in-lb
6.5 ft-lb is 78 in-lb
7.2 ft-lb is 86.4 in-lb.
14.5 ft-lb is 174 in-lb

25.3 is 303.6 in-lb and out of range, use the ft-lb torque wrench


There are a lot of other fasteners that can use a in-lb wrench too.


The Harbor Freight wrench just happens to be on sale today (02 July 2016) for $21.99:


Harbor Freight in-lb torque wrench


.