Gas in the Oil

[cajun31]

SteveO

Glad to see you got the petcocks rebuilt and working properly. You mentioned running the bike in the winter. Something to do it you have not already is to watch the voltage on your battery. On these bikes the charging system does not actually produce voltage high enough until you hit about 3000 rpm. Just starting the bike and letting it idle only serves to drain the battery. Other then just wanting to start the bike there is no real advantage to doing so in the winter. Some will argue, but I have found the best solution in winter is to top off your tank with non ethanol fuel, if you can find it, put in a good quality gas stabilizer and then put a battery tender on your battery. Don't know what kind of battery you are running, wet cell or agm I would guess. A good quality battery tender will maintain either, but on the wet cell I would occasionally check fluid level in the battery to be sure the battery tender is not drying it out.

[SteveO]

Cajun31

All good advice. I'm not sure I can find non-ethanol fuel, but the stabilizer is already in the tank and the tender will be connected pretty soon. You are probably correct that there is really no reason to run it in the winter, but sometimes I just like to hear it roar!

The petcock problem seemed to happen because the rubber dried out over last winter, allowing the fuel to get seep through it, because in the spring the petcock turned very easily. Once gas started flowing, the rubber expanded and the leakage stopped, but I rebuilt them both anyway. Now I keep an eye on the oil level through the little window on the side, to make sure that it does not seem to increase, which would indicate that more gas is getting in there.

It is not even December yet, and as I move the bike to the back of the garage and move the snow-blower to the front, i'm already counting down until it gets warm enough to ride again.

[motoman]

All good advice. I'm not sure I can find non-ethanol fuel, but the stabilizer is already in the tank and the tender will be connected pretty soon. You are probably correct that there is really no reason to run it in the winter, but sometimes I just like to hear it roar!

The petcock problem seemed to happen because the rubber dried out over last winter, allowing the fuel to get seep through it, because in the spring the petcock turned very easily. Once gas started flowing, the rubber expanded and the leakage stopped, but I rebuilt them both anyway. Now I keep an eye on the oil level through the little window on the side, to make sure that it does not seem to increase, which would indicate that more gas is getting in there.

It is not even December yet, and as I move the bike to the back of the garage and move the snow-blower to the front, i'm already counting down until it gets warm enough to ride again.

As far as fuel stabilizer goes, Star-Tron IS your best bet.....a bit better than Sea-Foam. I use it in my lawn mower AND motoorcycle when stored for any period of time. Always starts immediately, and runs perfectly. Being 'landbound' here, non ethenal fuel hardly available like it is down south(Columbus/Atlanta,Georgia) and the east/west coast.

[TopCatGr58]

You are probably correct that there is really no reason to run it in the winter, but sometimes I just like to hear it roar!

Hey Steve,

I remember reading about some members that would just fire up the bike for a few moments during the winter, and then shut them down. Then in the spring they changed their oil and found water in it! It was theorized /surmised that if the bike is run for just a few minutes, it's not able to reach full operating temperatures which normally burns off water condensation that can occur within the engine case. So...if you do get the itch to fire it up, run it for a good 10-15 minutes or more to get it fully warmed up before shutting it down which may help to prevent excessive condensation in the cases!

T.C.

[motoman]

Hey Steve,

I remember reading about some members that would just fire up the bike for a few moments during the winter, and then shut them down. Then in the spring they changed their oil and found water in it! It was theorized /surmised that if the bike is run for just a few minutes, it's not able to reach full operating temperatures which normally burns off water condensation that can occur within the engine case. So...if you do get the itch to fire it up, run it for a good 10-15 minutes or more to get it fully warmed up before shutting it down which may help to prevent excessive condensation in the cases!

T.C.

Very true, for those living in a humid location. Never an issue in my location.

[donebysunday]

The ethanol fuel is prone to nitrile damage, swelling (the stuff the O-rings/seals are made of) non ethanol won't attack these parts.
Of the stabilizers that you can use the blue STABIL (for ethanol fuels) is best.
It may seem way more expensive but if you notice, the amount you use is less( ends up being no more or even less expensive).
Starting the bike and running less than 10 miles will cause condensation inside and rot the exhaust system from the inside (valves/rings too). Getting the bike nice and warm, like riding 10+ miles causes it to dry itself out.

By the way, I'm having Deja Vu so I know what some you will say, go ahead I want to check my accuracy

All good advice. I'm not sure I can find non-ethanol fuel, but the stabilizer is already in the tank and the tender will be connected pretty soon. You are probably correct that there is really no reason to run it in the winter, but sometimes I just like to hear it roar!

The petcock problem seemed to happen because the rubber dried out over last winter, allowing the fuel to get seep through it, because in the spring the petcock turned very easily. Once gas started flowing, the rubber expanded and the leakage stopped, but I rebuilt them both anyway. Now I keep an eye on the oil level through the little window on the side, to make sure that it does not seem to increase, which would indicate that more gas is getting in there.

It is not even December yet, and as I move the bike to the back of the garage and move the snow-blower to the front, i'm already counting down until it gets warm enough to ride again.

[SteveO]

I would never fire it up and shut it right down; always make sure it gets up to operating temperature, and can idle on its own without the choke. I like to keep the RPMs up too, as it is true that at idle the battery will not charge, but the tender should protect that anyway. I also like the prior advice to put a block under the front tire when it's stored on the center stand for the winter, so I think I will do that too.

I'm hoping to take advantage of the long winter and have the seat re-covered, if I can find someone to do the job. Its a great seat, especially for the passenger (although I hardly have one anymore), but showing its age.

Its gonna be a long winter!

[cajun31]

not cheap but

authentic and has had good reviews on this forum.

https://www.motorcycleseatcovers.com...100-special-sf

[vedgar]

Keep checking the oil level in the sight window.

In the Spring, with the bike level, check the oil level in the sight glass window. If the level has not changed since the bike was stored, the fuel probably stayed where it is supposed to .

[Bonz]

I put red Stabil in along with a couple ounces per full tank of TCW3 2 stroke oil. I think the two-stroke oil coats the fuel system for lack of a better term and prevents ethanol damaging the components where as Stabil tends to keep the fuel from breaking down.

Whether you store your bike or ride it regularly, the ethanol breaking down components would be similar because rubber, etc is in constant contact with ethanol.

I rebuilt the carbs when I first got the bike in 2008, because they were dumping fuel out the airbox. The o-rings on the needle seats were original and toast. I haven't done a thing since.