acct first attempt

[timktm]

So after reading about the acct and which models will work I found one on Ebay. It says it is from an 07 Yamaha Grizzly 700 EPS. Which I thought by the list it would have worked. Either I got the wrong one or not all on the list will work. Or I read the list wrong. It is too long. It just barely fits with the shaft protruding out only one click of the teeth. I am not comfortable with that. So, back to Ebay to find one that will fit. What should I search for that will be exact fit?
Thanks,
Tim

[tcoop]

These work.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Venture-XVZ-1200-Off-1983-XVZ1200-timing-tensioner-adjuster-/261969841896?hash=item3cfe9e8ee8:g:0BwAAOSw~gRVp7z6&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-XVZ12-XVZ-1200-VENTURE-1983-cam-chain-tensioner-tensioners-engine-motor-/141983184151?hash=item210edb7517:g:jzIAAOSwiYFXK6Gu&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/83-Yamaha-Venture-Royale-XVZ1200-1200-TIMING-CHAIN-TENSIONER-/131595766578?hash=item1ea3b80b32:g:eRoAAOSwu4BV6e3D&vxp=mtr

[timktm]

Here are some pics.

[TADracer]

Not trying to be snippy here but I see this topic all the time. I am not discounting a good automatic tensioner but for all the time and expense it is easy to just make a manual tensioner. Granted you must pull the valve cover to make an adjustment but then you should be pulling the cover every year or so to check valve clearance during a normal tune-up.

I have been using the one below for about ten years now and gents I have to tell you, I rarely if ever need an adjustment because the thing is just so accurate and since it stays locked tight, if you need to remove the tensioner for some reason, just bolt it back in and it is set.

Pic is a bit blurry but you get the jist. Made this with a drill press and a couple of files a stainless carriage bolt and a few jam nuts and o-rings

[Bonz]

That's a neat home-made solution. Looks really good! How do you know how much tension you are putting on the cam chain when tightening things up?

Seems like the time and effort to make it was more than it took to put mine on once it arrived from ebay a few years ago when I did the mod.

The ACCT is a simple mod, other than being sent an incorrect one from ebay, which is remedied by getting the correct one.

Just like the cool one you made doesn't need adjusting MUCH, the ACCT doesn't need adjusting AT ALL.

Keep in mind, it's not the tensioner that needs adjusting, it's the cam chain needing the adjusting. If the cam chain did need adjusting mid-year for whatever reason, there isn't an external way to adjust it and the cam chain could run looser than desired until the next time you got into the engine.

Probably not a big issue on a lower mileage bike, but on higher mileage bikes that may have had less than ideal care, the cam chain could need adjusting at any given time without much notice, IMO.

Not trying to be a contrarian, I like the ingenuity.

Great piece of work to show everyone, thanks!

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Bonz,

The spring on the OEM tensioner isn't very strong, and the Service manual adjustment technique states removing the tensioner, compressing the plunger, locking the plunger compressed, reinstalling, with the engine already rotated/adjusted to the "C" mark for doing the CCT adjustment, releasing the lock and letting the little plunger go CLICK popping against the rail that pushes against the cam chain just enough to take up the slack.

The MODDED Manual CCT has a screwdriver slot in the external end of it, unlock the locking nuts, rotate the adjusting rod clockwise till you sense a little tension, then rotate CCW till you can feel that the tension is released. Then CW against just with a little tension/finger torque required, and lock in place. Using just a couple of fingers on the screwdriver can help from over tightening the manual tensioner rod which would then put the cam chain on excess tension causing it to prematurely stretch/wear. Having done the adjustment after FIRST installing the Modded adjuster with the valve cover off so one can see the chain, feel the tension of the chain on the portion going to the tensioner around the cam sprocket, and then "calibrating" your fingers to the same FEEL of tension is what can provide the ability to adjust/set the tensioner after several thousand miles between the YEARLY valve clearance procedure without necessarily having to take the valve cover off.

Here's the whole thread showing his mod, and other's replies, thoughts, etc.!

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19719&highlight=minute+cam+chain

T.C.

[Bonz]

Thanks TC, I gathered from the post it was adjusted with the valve cover off, so my skepticism and didn't make much sense with that being the case. Now I see it isn't any different than the Yamaha stock manual unit. I give it a huge thumbs up for simplicity and sorry to have not understood.

[timktm]

So, looks like this is just the wrong one and the list is correct?
Tim

[motoman]

Hey Bonz,

The spring on the OEM tensioner isn't very strong, and the Service manual adjustment technique states removing the tensioner, compressing the plunger, locking the plunger compressed, reinstalling, with the engine already rotated/adjusted to the "C" mark for doing the CCT adjustment, releasing the lock and letting the little plunger go CLICK popping against the rail that pushes against the cam chain just enough to take up the slack.

The MODDED Manual CCT has a screwdriver slot in the external end of it, unlock the locking nuts, rotate the adjusting rod clockwise till you sense a little tension, then rotate CCW till you can feel that the tension is released. Then CW against just with a little tension/finger torque required, and lock in place. Using just a couple of fingers on the screwdriver can help from over tightening the manual tensioner rod which would then put the cam chain on excess tension causing it to prematurely stretch/wear. Having done the adjustment after FIRST installing the Modded adjuster with the valve cover off so one can see the chain, feel the tension of the chain on the portion going to the tensioner around the cam sprocket, and then "calibrating" your fingers to the same FEEL of tension is what can provide the ability to adjust/set the tensioner after several thousand miles between the YEARLY valve clearance procedure without necessarily having to take the valve cover off.

Here's the whole thread showing his mod, and other's replies, thoughts, etc.!

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19719&highlight=minute+cam+chain

T.C.

Have to mostly disagree T.C. The stock spring tensioner or otherwise used tensioner using a spring is for a reason. It allows chain tension to be a bit flexible under load so the UHMV chain guides are not wore excessively when chain is under load.

The home built type of tensioner with just the bolt/lock nut was originally intended for use in track and sanctioned drag racing applications where exceedingly hard accelerations and hard de-celerations were applied and to keep cam timing degree differences at a minimum, and not intended for 'every-day' riding/use. True, the 'fixed in place' tensioner works fine, but don't be surprised to have excessive wear on chain guide material as a result.
JAT to consider if deciding use of a 'fixed' bolt type tensioner.

[TADracer]

All I can say is after ten years or so there is absolutely no cam chain guide wear. Had the guide out last year and it is pristine. Remember the chain rides on the guide by the rollers and not on the edges of the links and keeping correct tension on the chain (especially on deceleration) makes for minimal wear. As far as adjusting, leave about a total of 1/4" up/down travel between the sprockets and you are set.

I agree the idea was mainly for racing applications but then if that type of accuracy works for high performance then why not on the street? Racing engines are routinely tuned up to maintain the performance and the high RPM use will stretch the best of chains. But a street machine can 'set' the chain to its final length after just a few hours of running time.

Took about an hour and less than $10.00 to make.

Yes, I'm not an engineer and I didn't stay at the Holiday Inn Express last night But it works for me and so when I find something easy to do that works, I share.

[motoman]

All I can say is after ten years or so there is absolutely no cam chain guide wear. Had the guide out last year and it is pristine. Remember the chain rides on the guide by the rollers and not on the edges of the links and keeping correct tension on the chain (especially on deceleration) makes for minimal wear. As far as adjusting, leave about a total of 1/4" up/down travel between the sprockets and you are set.

I agree the idea was mainly for racing applications but then if that type of accuracy works for high performance then why not on the street? Racing engines are routinely tuned up to maintain the performance and the high RPM use will stretch the best of chains. But a street machine can 'set' the chain to its final length after just a few hours of running time.

Took about an hour and less than $10.00 to make.

Yes, I'm not an engineer and I didn't stay at the Holiday Inn Express last night But it works for me and so when I find something easy to do that works, I share.

Glad it has worked for you
As far as race applications, absolutely no mods originally designed for race applications EVER got left in place. All of use performance racers(even of yrs. past), any and all mods intended for race/performance appications never got left as such......motors were always being torn down for one thing or another, flat cam lobe, collapsed lifter.....on and on. Personnally, yrs. past, being a constant winner at the drag strip, I think you get my point.

[Eveready1100]

The stock spring tensioner or otherwise used tensioner using a spring is for a reason. It allows chain tension to be a bit flexible under load so the UHMV chain guides are not wore excessively when chain is under load.

Um, Motoman. The spring is only in use when the pinch bolt is slackened off to adjust the tension. It is rigidly locked in place in normal use.

[motoman]

Um, Motoman. The spring is only in use when the pinch bolt is slackened off to adjust the tension. It is rigidly locked in place in normal use.

Thanks, saw that after I actually went and looked at one of my old ones.

[timktm]

I got another one today. It will work, a lot shorter than the previous.
Tim

[timktm]

All hooked up and she runs fine. Easy install thanks to this site.
Tim