Quick transmission fix question

[fullmetal]

I've been getting ready to tear into my bike's transmission for the dreaded 2nd gear fix. My only concern is that the guide says the transmission needs to be in 4th gear to do most of the work. However, my bike will only shift to either 2nd or 3rd. Will that be a problem going forward?

I should mention that I planned on doing the fix with the motor out of the frame, but I haven't taken it out yet. The head and cylinder have been removed but the bottom end remains until I get this bit sorted out.

[BA80]

Sounds like you're missing pins out of the shift drum.

[TopCatGr58]

I've been getting ready to tear into my bike's transmission for the dreaded 2nd gear fix. My only concern is that the guide says the transmission needs to be in 4th gear to do most of the work. However, my bike will only shift to either 2nd or 3rd. Will that be a problem going forward?

I should mention that I planned on doing the fix with the motor out of the frame, but I haven't taken it out yet. The head and cylinder have been removed but the bottom end remains until I get this bit sorted out.

What that inability to shift up into 4th while the bike was running, or just now with it sitting?

If running, then like BA80 said, you should have found some missing pins in the shift drum.

But if it just won't shift up, moving/rotating the back wheel in a forward direction can help move the tranny parts a bit to let the gears slide/move and the shift forks to move to let it eventually shift into 4th. Let us know what you find.

T.C.

[mlew]

Why are you taking the engine out of the frame? The fix can be done without removing the engine.

[trbig]

Why are you taking the engine out of the frame? The fix can be done without removing the engine.

It's a lot easier to do with the engine out, and with the cylinders and head gone already, the hard part is done already.


@fullmetal, if you have the engine out, it takes maybe 20 minutes to split the cases, (Less with air tools) then you don't have to worry about what gear it's in and you can take a look at the crank bearings to see if they are needing replaced. After 30+ years, it'd probably be a good idea to get some new crank seals as well since they're cheap. If you're splitting the cases, you can even throw some OEM ones back in it if you want.

[mlew]

True it is easier. Was not sure if you were removing the engine just to fix the trans. Looks like there is other things to fix too.
While it is a PITA to fix 2nd gear with the engine in the frame, it can be done easily as a weekend project. I have done several and never worried about what gear it is in. Never even flipped the bike over, just use the center stand.

[fullmetal]

I'm taking the motor out to paint it and to get the frame repainted, among other things. I have a build thread somewhere but progress has been too slow to justify updating it just yet.

During the short time the bike ran before the tear down, I remember the bike was very stubborn with shifting up. Idk how much exactly it would shift up, I just know it's in 3rd right now. The wheels are off the bike now.

But if I don't really have to worry about what gear it's in if I split the cases, then that's the route I'll take. I have to split it open anyways. I'm curious now to see what I'll find when I do so.

[motoman]

I'm taking the motor out to paint it and to get the frame repainted, among other things. I have a build thread somewhere but progress has been too slow to justify updating it just yet.

During the short time the bike ran before the tear down, I remember the bike was very stubborn with shifting up. Idk how much exactly it would shift up, I just know it's in 3rd right now. The wheels are off the bike now.

But if I don't really have to worry about what gear it's in if I split the cases, then that's the route I'll take. I have to split it open anyways. I'm curious now to see what I'll find when I do so.

.............gear engaging dogs worn enough on edges to not hold in gear, roll pin in shift fork shaft on clutch side fallen out which causes shift fork shaft to slide enough to bend ends of shift pin retainers which causes one or more of them the fall out along with the oil pump idler gear on clutch side. When going back together with it, be sure and do the shift pawl alignment process aligning the two indented marks while in second gear. Expect more specifics to be asked, but this'll get you a good start.