Ignition Issue - 78E

[Marker]

Hello All,

Well, here's the deal, I appreciate all of the Tech advice out here and by no means do I expect you all to diagnose my issue right here for me, but I thought I'd throw out what it's doing in hopes that someone can narrow it down and save me some time and effort. So, here goes.

First of all, I changed the original fuse block out for the below "OEM" replacement.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/230681739770?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true - Don't worry...I spent nowhere near $42.99. I have an extra, btw. I'll send it to the most helpful "Guru" lol
Anyway, it started fine for a few weeks. The issue began when a couple of times it started cranking over and then nothing. The button was useless...no noise. I reset the fuses in several sequences until I got it to crank and start. Then, the other night it died going down the road. I again fiddled with the fuses and finally got it to start and had no issues getting it home. It started fine a few more times. The last time I went to start it, it cranked and kind of popped and died. Again, no button or clicking. I cannot get it started by messing with the fuses this time.

Any thoughts? I do have a brand new Gel Battery in it as well. I do have some miscellaneous parts from another XS.

Thanks for the help!!! I hope to be XSive again very soon.

[mack]

fuse block

Without knowing if everything else is working, I'd check three things before I start ripping things apart. Check the quality of the glass fuses. They may look ok but are notorious for being able to twist the ends off easily. Most of us have switched to the blade style that TC has for sale $10.00.
The next thing I'd look into would be a loose wire where you grafted in the fuse panel. And of course, look at all your grounds making sure they're clean and tight.

[DAVINCI]

Inside the headlight bucket the ignition switch three-prong connector is prone to melting and or corroding. That one caught me by surprise once!

[rover]

ignition

On the starter solenoid, with the wire from the battery, there is a smaller wire with a spade connector. On my 79F, this wire had a bad connection, took me a long time to find it. The spade connector was corroded, so I cut it off and had enough wire remaining to solder an eye, and bolted it direct to the solenoid post.

[Marker]

Ignition Issue Resolved

Hello,

Well, I first want to thank you all for the responses to my ignition issue. I am thankful for this outstanding resource of information and support from fellow XS11 enthusiasts.

Anyway, as it turns out, the brand new glass fuses were not all in good condition. The first fuse I tested was tested was bad. So, I'm a little embarrassed that I didn't test them before creating this thread and, frankly, surprised I was even able to get it running when I had issues by resetting the fuses. The jostling of the fuse must've been just enough to make the connection. :-/

Thanks again for the assistance!!!

[motoman]

Hello,

Well, I first want to thank you all for the responses to my ignition issue. I am thankful for this outstanding resource of information and support from fellow XS11 enthusiasts.

Anyway, as it turns out, the brand new glass fuses were not all in good condition. The first fuse I tested was tested was bad. So, I'm a little embarrassed that I didn't test them before creating this thread and, frankly, surprised I was even able to get it running when I had issues by resetting the fuses. The jostling of the fuse must've been just enough to make the connection. :-/

Thanks again for the assistance!!!

While your at it, remove the kill switch, take apart and drop ALL pieces into a cup of Evapor-Rust, including the external switch(it'll make it look like new). When taking apart, careful and not have the internal spring bounce off into oblivion. The kill switch completes the start/running circuit and IS a common issue for bike not starting and quiting for no known reason while riding. Ignition switch being exposed to outside elements is another problem area causing low/no voltage.