'79sf Brake Pads - help please...

[Shuriken]

At:
https://www.partsnmoreonline.com/PNM...s%20parts.html

There are several sets of brake pads listed. Do I have to buy front left hand side pads, front right hand side pads, and rear pad sets - (3) sets of pads for this thing?

I suppose the set that says "Fits Rear: XS1100SF/LG/SG/SH" is the set I use for the rear of my '79sf, and buy 2 sets of the others since the are apparently not the same on the front left and right? $38 plus shipping? Ouch.

Can somebody verify this before I order the wrong stuff?

What's the best way to resurface the rear brake rotor? Can it be done without special tools / lathe?

Ben

[John]

The brake pads are side specific, as they are angled across the face . One will be thicker at the top and the other will be thicker at the bottom. The rear pads are flat. You need to buy three different sets. If the rotor is just rusy, then a good sanding with some fine sand paper is sufficent. If it is grooved, then good luck. They are very hard, and have to be machined like an automotive flywheel. A brake lathe doesn't do a good job.
DAMHIKIJD

[Jerry]

According to the EBC catalog:

Model/Year Front Back
XJ '82 FA70 FA41
E/F/G/H '78 - '81 FA34 FA34
SG/SH '80 - '81
Left FA61 FA34
Right FA41
LG (MNS) '80
Left FA61 FA34
Right FA41
LH (MNS) '81 FA70 FA41

There is no listing for an SF. Since all but the XJ and LH use the same rear pads, FA34, no problem ordering a set of those. Does appear from other posts that you will need 2 different sets for the front, 1 each FA61 and 1 each FA41, same as the SG/SH/LG Specials.

[Shuriken]

Why are these pads for this model tapered and the later models not? What is the idea behind tapered pads and why did Yamaha change?

Partsnmore is sold out of all 3 sets anyways. I'm about ready to try swapping front ends for simplification....

Ben

[Jerry]

FWIW, the FA41 pads used on the rear of the XJ and LH are also tapered. The front FA70 pads are 'straight'.

No idea on why Yamaha uses tapered pads other than the caliper could not be mounted 90 degrees off the rotor. Easier to use tapered pads instead of redesigning the calipers? At any rate, the rear pads on my XJ wear out before the front pads.

[Shuriken]

Seems to me when I did the brakes on my 80g that they were not very expensive. The EBC catalog I looked at listed the pads at $30 dollars per disc. That's getting greased up if I have any opinion on the matter.

I'm beginning to think that my 79 Special is going to quickly turn into a 79 Standard. I would really like to use existing parts and even like the look of the gas tank of the specials.... but....

I still have not rebuilt the rear master cylinder on the 79 either. I may just start swapping parts. I just need to get a rolling frame to go around the block to see if the engine and tranny are better.....

Ben

[CA.XSer]

Ben

Have you tried Zanottis

[Geezer]

Originally posted by ae7f
Seems to me when I did the brakes on my 80g that they were not very expensive. The EBC catalog I looked at listed the pads at $30 dollars per disc. That's getting greased up if I have any opinion on the matter.

I'm beginning to think that my 79 Special is going to quickly turn into a 79 Standard. I would really like to use existing parts and even like the look of the gas tank of the specials.... but....

I still have not rebuilt the rear master cylinder on the 79 either. I may just start swapping parts. I just need to get a rolling frame to go around the block to see if the engine and tranny are better.....

Ben

I put a standard front end on my 80 Mongrel to get away from those screwy brakes on the Special. Yamaha is the only one that used the pivioting caliper and then not for long. It was a bad idea to start with.

Geezer

[John]

Hey Geezer, how did that affect your steering? Didn't that throw off the geometry? Make for quicker steering?

[Geezer]

Originally posted by John
Hey Geezer, how did that affect your steering? Didn't that throw off the geometry? Make for quicker steering?

I changed the triple clamps too. I think it steers a bit slow and I'm hoping for improvement in that area when I swap out the 16" rear wheel for a 17" one. I'm also looking forward to the higher gearing with the larger rear wheel.

Geezer

[John]

Do you have the 17' wheel or do you need one? I have one I'm looking to get rid of.

[Geezer]

Originally posted by John
Do you have the 17' wheel or do you need one? I have one I'm looking to get rid of.

I have one but if you have a tubless 17" rear, then I'm intrested.

Geezer

[John]

Sorry, but mine is a tube type, from the 78E.

[Shuriken]

I removed the wheel, calipers, and pads for inspection. The front brakes are fine. I originally thought they were screwy because I didn't know the specials had weird brake pads...

I think the 79sf has less room to work with than the 80g up front. I couldn't fit the tire between the forks without removing the fender and twisting the forks a little to get proper clearance for the tire.

So, now I just need rear pads for the 79sf. I will call some places since I don't trust part descriptions on some websites. I probably would have ordered from dennis kirk by now but I didn't see indication of whether the pads were front or rear pads. They have 2 pages of brake pads and tell you what model they fit but don't say if it is for front and rear.

In fact, I think I need a rear master cylinder rebuild too. The rear lever was stuck. I gave it slight pressure and it broke free. But the rod that moves upwards into the master cylinder is not doing anything.

I don't know what to do about the rear brake rotor. I'm tempted to just put some new pads on and let them work out the rough spots - but I'm sure the rotors don't wear that fast.

Ben

[Shuriken]

I broke down and ordered a rear master cylinder kit and rear brake pads from Cyclewareables.com .

More pricey, too. But I ordered from them before and had a good experience. I hope they ship the right parts again.

I'll probably settle for an Autozone battery for $35.

I'm still undecided on the brake rotor. Are standard and special rotor sizes/characteristics the same?

I don't exactly want to ruin my new brake pads... I think the reason the rotor is hashed is because someone never changed the brake pads.....

I may do some surface work on it myself with some type of grinding tool. I don't really mind as much if there are some grooves in it but if there are peaked rings or areas in it that will chew up the brake pad I might attempt to smooth them out without warping the rotor...

Ben