How do you get clutch cover off when glued on

[Bartman]

I have no one to blame but myself. Last year I was checking clutch plates and springs and thought every thing was good and buttoned it up with sealant. Good news is it doesn't leak. Bad news is when I changed the oil the other week the clutch started slipping. Always used Walmart oil but this time used Advance Auto brand, and yes with no print in cycle. Slipping now.

I bought some Barrett springs and was "going too" change them tonight. Had to stop and walk away. Where can you get leverage to pull the clutch cover off when it is sealed on?

[bikerphil]

Make sure all the bolts are out and squeeze the clutch lever, that usually will pop the cover off. Maybe try tapping with a dead blow hammer with the lever squeezed in. If you need to, use the cable adjustment to make the cable tighter for more pressure. You can also put a wooden dowel in the oil fill to pull the cover outward.

[motoman]

I have no one to blame but myself. Last year I was checking clutch plates and springs and thought every thing was good and buttoned it up with sealant. Good news is it doesn't leak. Bad news is when I changed the oil the other week the clutch started slipping. Always used Walmart oil but this time used Advance Auto brand, and yes with no print in cycle. Slipping now.

I bought some Barrett springs and was "going too" change them tonight. Had to stop and walk away. Where can you get leverage to pull the clutch cover off when it is sealed on?

Your gonna need to re-adjust throw-out assembly on clutch side of engine case. First, loosen clutch cabe adjustment ALL the way, then remove the clutch side clutch cover adjustment cover(2 Phillips screws). Loosen the lock-nut on adjusting screw in center portion on engine case cover. Back the screw out so you feel no pressure on it. Gradually back in with screw until you JUST feel resistance, then back it out a quarter turn. Hold csrew in place and tighen the lock-nut. Go back up top at bars and re-adust the cable adjustment. Now go ride!(and get an instruction manual).

[Bartman]

I did put the handle of the rubber mallet in the oil filler hole and yanked so hard that I had to lean on the bike to keep it from falling over.
I will hook the cable back up and try that tomorrow night.

[motoman]

I did put the handle of the rubber mallet in the oil filler hole and yanked so hard that I had to lean on the bike to keep it from falling over.
I will hook the cable back up and try that tomorrow night.

If your rreferring to cable being disconnected at the bar mount............leave it off until you re-adjust the throw-out assembly that's under the round inspection cover, as per the manual.

[Prothec]

What sealant did you use? You could see if you could work a razor blade around wherever you can between the cover and the engine. It might help to run the bike a bit and try with the case warmed up if it has any effect on the sealant.

[mack]

Alignment dowels

There are a couple alignment dowls in the case that usualy cause the binding. Use a small box cutter to run as much of the seam as you can to. Then a rubber mallet all around the seam, it should start a larger crack between the case and the cover. After that I use a putty knife around the seam twisting it slightly at several locations until the cover pop's out. Your other option of course is the change tback to proper oil and leave the new springs out for now.

[Bartman]

Update: used a very small old sharp screwdriver and small hammer and finally got the cover of.
Found that the 27 mm nut was loose, only the locking tab holding it on.
When I pulled the basket I found the the upper oil gear was bent and a few teeth chipped.
I thought that I heard a pop last year when tightening the 27mm nut to 51 ft pads. Last time I must not have had it all aligned correctly. Good thing I have a parts bike 3 feet away to steal another gear from.
The old springs were all over 42mm and the plates over 3mm and looked good. But I will still put the new springs in, in the morning. They measured a little over 43mm.
I did try to wiggle and make sure everything was right tonight before I torqued the 27mm nut but it also did a little pop as what I think was one plate was catching on the inner spring post part. I don't want to take it back off. Maybe sleep on it and rethink that in the morning too!

[BA80]

You said the clutch started slipping after the oil change. What kind of oil did you put in it?

[mack]

idler gear

It's very important to make sure the clutch basket is meshed with the oil pump idler gear. I use a small articulating mirror and flashlight to check that everytime I do an install.

[Bartman]

I looked back and the oil was Auto Zone brand and 10-40.
But after finding the 27mm nut loose it doesn't surprise me that it was having issues.
It pulled to 100 real quick and no slipping this afternoon.
Kurt stopped by today and we had a good visit.