Clutch Slippage help

[adelii]

yes thanks for the advice. im definitely going the cheap route first. i just wanted to know whats best to buy if adjusting and oil doesnt work.

[BA80]

Be careful about cheap cables on Ebay. On my first rally at lunch time I broke a brand new cable and we did a 15 minute swap repair on the side of the road because TC had a spare thank god. Greg you would not know about this as you were in the hospital. Just be careful as some of the cables made have an internal plastic coating and it will not hold up to the XS11 strong clutch and begins to bind. Just be weary and carry a spare as mine was only 3 weeks old. My bike engine had set for several years and I flushed it out but still the clutch plates had rusted. As I replied in the first message Use the right oil adjust the clutch do not go for the big stuff till the small and simple are taken care of first like Motoman suggested. Barnett springs are the only ones to get. If and only if everything else does not work then think about any clutch kit.

First time owners success with correcting problems is proportionally related to following recommendations step by step and not throwing parts at the problem

Hey! I almost made it to the lunch stop.

The biggest issue with the clutch cables breaking is at the handlebar lever. The lever gets worn and gets too much vertical play in it and the cable rubs excessively on the adjusting screw.

As far as the sheathing, I've never had one last long enough to notice sticking because of the lining. But then, I hardly ever use the clutch on upshifts either. Mostly on downshifts and take off. The one I had on there was a couple three years old. Put it on just before the XSSE you mentioned.

Sorry for the drift off subject. Just part of the conversation.

[motoman]

Hey! I almost made it to the lunch stop.

The biggest issue with the clutch cables breaking is at the handlebar lever. The lever gets worn and gets too much vertical play in it and the cable rubs excessively on the adjusting screw.

As far as the sheathing, I've never had one last long enough to notice sticking because of the lining. But then, I hardly ever use the clutch on upshifts either. Mostly on downshifts and take off. The one I had on there was a couple three years old. Put it on just before the XSSE you mentioned.

Sorry for the drift off subject. Just part of the conversation.

No 'drift' associated Greg. My original gave it up at that location thanks to the pivot point at bar mount location getting enlarged after some 33yrs. of puling/releasing lever. Now 35yrs. old and still going strong on original motor.

[BA80]

Well Brant, 3 years on my bike (average 10 - 15k miles a year) might just be equal to 33 on most 11's.

This thread reminds me, I need to replace AT LEAST my clutch lever.

[motoman]

Well Brant, 3 years on my bike (average 10 - 15k miles a year) might just be equal to 33 on most 11's.

This thread reminds me, I need to replace AT LEAST my clutch lever.

Well, at 82K original miles on my Venturer.........couldn't agree more, specially since my original mount 'threw craps' at 79K some five yrs. ago. With those low miles over 5yrs............now oughta' last till I no longer can ride on two-wheels........don't count out a three wheel Wing at this point thought, or the lighter Yamaha 'shaftie' Super Tenere.

[motoman]

BA80, my #13 post came about just cause some 5yrs. back, had my throw-out adjustment 1/8 turn off or assembly finially seated in place after doing the second gear dermal fix. The latter was most likely. It would start slipping a bit at the WAY upper rpm level when I ran it at the local drag-strip at a Fri. nite 'test'n'tune. Being a factory full dresser, slippping clutch, tunes mounted with it, and at a 5,000ft. elev., still turned low to mid thirteen sec. quarter mi. times with .46 react times. Not too shabby for an old school(mid to latter 70's) cage drag racer at the strip runnin' an 'old school' 64 'Goat'(daily driver to work, ect.) sporting a 70' Judge Ram-Air IV engine and N-50 series street tires.

[ViperRon]

Yes Greg you nearly made it to lunch first day this was second day I broke down And the original cable is a thicker cable that I do not think even has a coating inside just spiral metal wrap. However when I got home and checked the cable that failed the thinner cable had under pressure marred the inner coating and the cable did not slide freely. I now have an original Yamaha cable and original new spare so I am good to go. You can find original spares in good shape at times pretty cheep on Ebay and there is a difference with new barnnet springs. I have also tested these new frictions that I got from China made from packed paper with Aircraft aluminum actually race quality fibers for R1. The original was cork and there is a great deal of difference. These new ones seem to grip and I'd swear even more consistent than my bike did new and along with it my oil seems to stay cleaner. I can not get the clutch to slip without leaver action once it engages its locked in but it is smooth no grab. Have been running them more than a year and no issues for the 30.00 I paid for all the fibers it was a good deal for me. So Moto if you ever replace the fibers look for these paper packed fibers they grip well.

[motoman]

Yes Greg you nearly made it to lunch first day this was second day I broke down And the original cable is a thicker cable that I do not think even has a coating inside just spiral metal wrap. However when I got home and checked the cable that failed the thinner cable had under pressure marred the inner coating and the cable did not slide freely. I now have an original Yamaha cable and original new spare so I am good to go. You can find original spares in good shape at times pretty cheep on Ebay and there is a difference with new barnnet springs. I have also tested these new frictions that I got from China made from packed paper with Aircraft aluminum actually race quality fibers for R1. The original was cork and there is a great deal of difference. These new ones seem to grip and I'd swear even more consistent than my bike did new and along with it my oil seems to stay cleaner. I can not get the clutch to slip without leaver action once it engages its locked in but it is smooth no grab. Have been running them more than a year and no issues for the 30.00 I paid for all the fibers it was a good deal for me. So Moto if you ever replace the fibers look for these paper packed fibers they grip well.

Appreciate the advice! Figure my stock original springs will go the distance or outlast my age anyways. And straight-aways, I DO still like hard accelleration.

[dbeardslee]

yes thanks for the advice. im definitely going the cheap route first. i just wanted to know whats best to buy if adjusting and oil doesnt work.

If you decide to replace the springs my advice is to install new frictions while you're at it. At the very least you should remove the old ones and check them to see if they're in spec. But unless that clutch has been changed in the past I can almost promise you that thirty year old cork is not what you want in your motor. You have to remove the side cover to get at the springs, and as the cover gasket tends to be one of the bigger PITA's when redoing a clutch, to me it only makes sense to replace the frictions while you're in there, considering what they cost.

As far as the cable, I replaced mine with a Motion Pro and never looked back. Might cost a few bucks more than an e-bay special, but it's a good cable that fits properly.

And be very careful when you're working with the star plate. They're not that hard to break, and if you break it you're out of business. But if you follow the cluch tutorial to the letter and you should be fine.

My $.02

[BA80]

If you decide to replace the springs my advice is to install new frictions while you're at it. At the very least you should remove the old ones and check them to see if they're in spec. But unless that clutch has been changed in the past I can almost promise you that thirty year old cork is not what you want in your motor.

All the parts engines I have and that I have taken apart I've never run across a clutch with bad frictions. Just bad springs and broken pressure plate parts.

Not that it's impossible, just not very likely.

[dbeardslee]

All the parts engines I have and that I have taken apart I've never run across a clutch with bad frictions. Just bad springs and broken pressure plate parts.

Not that it's impossible, just not very likely.

I've run across worn/deteriorated frictions on several motors. And since the frictions only run about $5 ea. to me it's penny wise and pound foolish not to replace them while you've got the cover off. It's a tiny bit of additional work and a small expense to do it then. I'm of the opinion that this kind of job should be done right the first time so's not to have to go back in again.

[red bandit]

I've had a few frictions plates that were well with in spec and appeared good but I couldn't get them to quit slipping until I replaced them with new ones from Parts-n-more. YMMV

[BA80]

I've had a few frictions plates that were well with in spec and appeared good but I couldn't get them to quit slipping until I replaced them with new ones from Parts-n-more. YMMV

That sounds like a spring or oil problem. But, as long as it's fixed.

[ViperRon]

Heat and some additives can eat up the frictions like when you have leaky petcocks and floats don't seat and you fill up on gas. That ethanol will swell up the cork and it will no longer grip. Just the residue that gets in oil from burning ethanol is not good so there is where you can have issues Greg. Mine were the right thickness I cleaned them up put new springs in and still when warm they slipped under power. Also sitting for a long time like mine did dry can be a real issue in deterioration of cork. There are papers out there on the internet that explain it all.

But I still say you need to go threw the process before just saying the frictions are bad. Right oil, Adjustment, and more than likely you will find springs will resolve the issue it just did not for me and will not for some especially if they have a full dresser do an overbore kit new rings etc and kick the compression up to 170lbs cold.

[red bandit]

That sounds like a spring or oil problem. But, as long as it's fixed.

That was with Barnett springs and I tried different oils with out additives. That was a few years ago, haven't had a problem since. But like you said, it's working now.