82 XJ1100 to mount Vetter Vindicator

[Rickrod3]

That one is different from Harry's his had 2 headlights (4 now he took the red police lights out and replaced them) and the turn signals are integral.

Look at the pic I posted. His is the one that looks like the mother shop landed with all the lights.

Yes, the headlight bucet is removed, I just folded the ears in and the wiring is kind of a rats nest but vetter makes a bag to cover them up. If you know an upholsterer you can get something made. Mine just hang out in behind there.

I think Harry has the Liberator which was made for Harley

http://www.craigvetter.com/pages/Vet...Liberator.html

[BA80]

I think Harry has the Liberator which was made for Harley

http://www.craigvetter.com/pages/Vet...Liberator.html

I think you might be right. My mistake.

[madmax-im]

I think Harry has the Liberator which was made for Harley

http://www.craigvetter.com/pages/Vet...Liberator.html

Thankyou for sharing this...fascinating history of Vetter...

[Rickrod3]

your welcome

Thankyou for sharing this...fascinating history of Vetter...

I'm a fan of his work. All of his products seem to be thought out and functional. and they work great too!

[HalfCentury]

There is a Vindicator installation booklet for an XJ650 on craigvetter.com

There was a turn signal bracket that attached to the Vetter bracket and allows mounting a standard motorcycle signal.

I shall hunt for a suitable alanogue of this in lieu of finding an actual used original.

[HalfCentury]

Bigfoot had one on his F for a while, he might be able to help.

He said it was comfortable to ride behind but you push a lot of air. His fuel mileage dropped down to mid to low 20's.

Here's a pic of it mounted. Can't mistake it.

I have been reading and researching Vetter fairings having never done so before.

From the research, the Liberator fairing has a huge front end with copious amounts of instrument space on the driver side. No wonder gas mileage is lower with this fairing.

Looking at Craig Vetter's latest work, slippery fairing and tail makes for better mileage. The Liberator looks to be anything but slippery to the wind.

I will report mileage after the Vindicator fairing is installed and the bike is back to drivable condition.

I purchased some new turn signals that are close to 80s Yamaha looks. The Vetter bracket needs de-rusted and rattle can painted before installing the fairing for a test drive.

I also ordered some colored hookup wire to keep the turn signals wiring to be obvious.

[motoman]

That one is different from Harry's his had 2 headlights (4 now he took the red police lights out and replaced them) and the turn signals are integral.

Look at the pic I posted. His is the one that looks like the mother shop landed with all the lights.

Yes, the headlight bucet is removed, I just folded the ears in and the wiring is kind of a rats nest but vetter makes a bag to cover them up. If you know an upholsterer you can get something made. Mine just hang out in behind there.

I have to say, that Vindicator fairing with the lite mods Harry did sure fools one as to bike brand as it passes you going the other way.

[HalfCentury]

Progress is being made.

I bought a set of thread chasing taps. Tapped the two holes to mount the fairing bracket. Removed the bracket and wire brushed as much rust as I could see and reach on all 3 brackets. There are two blinker brackets.

I rattle can painted the brackets and installed.

I bought a set of eBay blinkers to mount to the blinker brackets. The OEM blinker stalks have square mount flanges. I removed the guts from the OEM blinker stalks and swapped them into the ebay blinkers. Not a perfect fit but very good anyway. The original ebay blinker bulb and socket is only one element and will not work.

Bench tested the blinkers. Blue wire is running light at about 1/2 amp. Brown wire is the blinker which is about 2 amps. Everything checks out good.

Installed the blinkers on the brackets and did a first-pass wiring through the frame. I do not want to route the blinkers through the fairing. This will let me remove the fairing with less hassle.

[MaximPhil]

Nice installation. a couple of tie wraps to tidy up the wires.
Where are you horns mounted?
Phil

[HalfCentury]

The blinker wiring shown is just a fit check and operations check. I am going to run the wiring through some black shrink wrap (or loom) for protection and camouflage.

The stock horns are barely audible on the road. I put them on the bench to diagnose and determined that they are not worth messing with. I ordered some 110 dB horns from ebay that are to be delivered soon. They will be mounted to the original frame holes without the OEM bracket if I can fit the mount behind the Vetter braket.

Once the horns are sorted, I can actually start on getting it all together.

I am on the lookout for some sort of junction box that I can install where the headlight bucket used to be to hide and protect all of the electrical wiring and plugs.

[HalfCentury]

Below is a picture of an aftermarket ebay 110dB horn which i painted black and mounted to the Vetter bracket. I re-purposed the OEM horn mount which fits the aftermarket horn perfectly.

The aftermarket mounting bracket is flimsy crap and was removed.

The mounting bolt is an XJ650 caliper bolt which is M8 x 1.25 by about 4" long. I used the caliper bushing to clamp the horn in place and space it out about 2". This is a great location, not banging against anything, far away from the headers, far away from any feet when riding, not in the way of the forks.

I only have one set of the hardware so off to McMaster Carr to obtain bolts, bushings and nuts. The hardware is going to cost more than I paid for the horns.

Once the horns are in place, I can finish the wiring and get the looms in place and then start mounting the fairing. Immediately after I will probably remove it all to start on the valve clearances.

[MaximPhil]

Hi Halfcentury,
The wiring is all in so now you can get some real horns.
Run them through a relay:
http://www.fiamm.com/en/northamerica...uxe-(fti).aspx

Note dual tone and HEAR 128dB
Your 100 dB are barely above a whisper in the real world.
A room of people talking (without music) is about 85 to 90 dB
I call mine the "Wake the Trucker" horns although ironically have never needed them for a trucker but a few times for cars misbehavin'
Mount them with the opening pointing down so they do not fill with rain.
There are other brands that are also good but do look at the specifications and dual tone is much better.
Phil

[HalfCentury]

Hi Halfcentury,
The wiring is all in so now you can get some real horns.
Run them through a relay:
http://www.fiamm.com/en/northamerica...uxe-(fti).aspx

Note dual tone and HEAR 128dB
Your 100 dB are barely above a whisper in the real world.
A room of people talking (without music) is about 85 to 90 dB
I call mine the "Wake the Trucker" horns although ironically have never needed them for a trucker but a few times for cars misbehavin'
Mount them with the opening pointing down so they do not fill with rain.
There are other brands that are also good but do look at the specifications and dual tone is much better.
Phil

Hello Phil

Thanks for the link. Crazy loud at 128dB.

Here is a link for the dual tone horn set I bought

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RED-SUPER-LO...-/121827370846

The rated loudness is 118dB. I bench tested them indoors with a power supply and they are very very loud. The OEM horns are going into the junk pile.

[MaximPhil]

Hello Phil

Thanks for the link. Crazy loud at 128dB.

Here is a link for the dual tone horn set I bought

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RED-SUPER-LO...-/121827370846

The rated loudness is 118dB. I bench tested them indoors with a power supply and they are very very loud. The OEM horns are going into the junk pile.

I miss read your original post. Yes 118 dB will be loud enough
Phil