The Bagger Project

[motoman]

Sounds like a good ride. I once rode from Denver to Reno, took a tour around Lake Tahoe, and back to Denver via US Hwy 50 (loneliest highway). I must say that Hwy 50 was one of the best rides ever, until it merged with I-70.

Sounds like a good ride!..........but he's some 1500+ miles away, and not anywhere near that location.

[Radioguylogs]

Bag Mounting

Mike,

Random request as you have it all apart already. Could you take some pictures of the saddlebag bracketry without the bag installed? I've got a standard which uses a different mounting system, but I think the layout you have is more logical(supports the weight from the bottom, not just the sides)

Not a huge deal. Don't make a special trip for it.

Ddshea:

Here are a few pictures:






I actually made some detailed sketches and measurements for another member. If you want that information, PM your e-mail address.

[Radioguylogs]

DiverRay

Oh, and if you did 1 through Santa Cruz, you went past my place just South of there in Aptos!

Yup....went right by there (in the rented Charger).

You live in heaven, especially for a biker.

[Dbshea]

Ddshea:

Here are a few pictures:






I actually made some detailed sketches and measurements for another member. If you want that information, PM your e-mail address.

Nope, the pictures are just what I needed. Thanks! Need to fab some metal up now!

[Radioguylogs]

Cause of ticking-tapping sound?

Tapping Sound at Idle

I was still uncomfortable with the rattly-ticking-tapping sound at idle. I decided it was so easy to adjust the cam chain tensioner, that I should do it again, even though I did it before I shimmed the valves.

I tightened the set screw (bolt) as much as I felt comfortable, and started it up. Immediately it SEEMED to sound much better for a second or two, then it seemed to come back. I blipped the throttle a couple of times, and suddenly I could hear the slap-slap-slap of the loose cam chain.

I tried to re-adjust it and the tensioner set screw was totally stripped.

For time being, I bought another stock tensioner on eBay and got my order into Partzilla for the gasket, O-ring, and rubber plug.

I'd be soooo happy if this turned out to be the cause.

Crack Repair in Bags and LH Cover

I ordered this plastic repair kit las noght from Plasti-Mend:
http://plasti-mend.com/cart/index.ph...tegory&path=59

I'll report about the product after I try it out.

Oil Consumption

Seems like this bike burned about a 1/8-1/4 quart of oil in 150 miles. I'll have to keep an eye on it. Compression is good, so maybe the valve seals are a bit tired.


Now I'm sidelined all fronts until stuff arrives. I should give my other bikes some attention while I am waiting.

[Radioguylogs]

Yeah!

CCT

All the parts arrived yesterday for the CCT replacement. I know others will scoff, but I stayed with the OE CCT for now. I rounded up the gasket, O-ring, and a new rubber plug.

The swap went smoothly, but take a look at this:





The CCT plunger was hanging off the edge of the part it pushes on. Anybody seen this before?

After the swap, I removed the fairing lowers to pull the plugs to cautiously rotate the crank a few turns. Nothing touched. Yeah.

I strated it up and the clickety-tickety-rattley noise was gone. YEAH! Now I don't need to lose any more sleep over that.

I rode around a bit last night and today and the engine is really happy now.

Plugs

While the plugs were out , I noted #2 and #3 had a nice tan color on the porcelain. Plugs #1 and #4 were bone white. They seem lean, which is strange, considering all cylinders had the same main jet in my carbs.

Tach

The Tach is still twitchy. It is not bad at 4k and below, but above 4k it twitches a lot. I've checked the 'headlight' connector, the bullets inside the tach cover, and also the 3 way connector behind the fuses. This problem might be hard to find.

BTW, I see the SF tach reads 4.7k at 70MPH, but the SG seems to be around 5.5k at 70MPH. Are the final drives geared the same?

Bags and Cover Cracks

The Plasti-Mend product arrived yesterday, so I can work on the cracks in the Bags and the LH Battery Cover. I'll report about the product after I give it a try.

[Prisoner6]

CCT

All the parts arrived yesterday for the CCT replacement. I know others will scoff, but I stayed with the OE CCT for now. I rounded up the gasket, O-ring, and a new rubber plug.

Tach

BTW, I see the SF tach reads 4.7k at 70MPH, but the SG seems to be around 5.5k at 70MPH. Are the final drives geared the same?

No scoffing here, Mike ... but I am curious if there's a reason why you don't want to go with the ACCT mod?

As far as the FD ...

From the factory, SF/SG final drives are geared identically.

This may be a silly question, but ... are you sure the SG was in 5th gear when you got that 5,500RPM @ 70MPH reading?

That seems ridiculously high, but the SF reading you got seems right in line.

Looking forward to your project's completion!

[Radioguylogs]

Thanks for Helpful Feedback

Hi Marco:

I didn't see a 'need' for the ACCT, although I recognize the benefit. I am reluctant to risk to a stiffer spring load if I don't have something pushing me to do it. Mainly, I am too attached to keeping my bikes stock. There is still hope for me, though.

I made the RPM readings over and over again, so I am pretty sure I'm in fifth gear. I did had the same thought, though. I am starting to think the tach might be inaccurate if the gearing is identical. Thanks for confirming the gearing is the same.

[jetmechmarty]

The clocks on these bikes are pretty much cheap ...... Most likely, you have an inacurrate tach.

[HalfCentury]

I am on my third speedo and second tach since I started reconditioning my XJ1100 last year. The speed and tach are not high quality build devices.

I actually reached back into the 1970s to obtain an SX650 speedo for my 1982 XJ1100. I had already replaced the speedo and tach as a unit.

[Radioguylogs]

OK- Thanks for the advice

Wiring is all checked and it looks good.

...so I sent a PM to Andreas.

Too bad, since the tach I have has a bezel that looks like new.

Thanks for the advice.

-Mike

[motoman]

Hi Marco:

I didn't see a 'need' for the ACCT, although I recognize the benefit. I am reluctant to risk to a stiffer spring load if I don't have something pushing me to do it. Mainly, I am too attached to keeping my bikes stock. There is still hope for me, though.

I made the RPM readings over and over again, so I am pretty sure I'm in fifth gear. I did had the same thought, though. I am starting to think the tach might be inaccurate if the gearing is identical. Thanks for confirming the gearing is the same.

Actually, the 'need' is still there. The set bolt will NOT hold slide adjuster stationary upon a hard decal. It'll go back to where it was prior to adjustment.

[Radioguylogs]

Actually, the 'need' is still there. The set bolt will NOT hold slide adjuster stationary upon a hard decal. It'll go back to where it was prior to adjustment.

I did file the flat surface of the plunger until all the previous detents were gone. At least I get one fresh detent spot.
___________________________________
Meanwhile, I worked more on the tach. I measured the resistance between the whitle wire connector behind the fuses to the bullet connector inside the tach can. It was less than 0.1 Ohm.

I measured the black wire in the bullet inside the can to the battery ground. It was about 0.2 Ohms.

I wiggled the wires and found no fluctuation in the resistances.

I put an oscilloscope on the white wire inside the tach can...with the tach still connected.





Not the sine wave we would all expect. The voltage does increase with RPM, and the frequency increases with RPM. However, it does seem to saturate above 4k RPM - seems like less voltage increase with further increase in RPM.

I wiggled with tach and the wiring. Nothing really seems to reliably cause the twitching. Meanwhile it still happened above 4k.

Put it all back together and went for a ride.

Seems like next step is to try another tach.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Mike,

I, too, ran the OEM CCT for 30 years, and did a TON of hard decels, rally riding in the mountains essentially every year since 2000 rebuild.

BUT the OEM CCT is a flawed design, and IF it's mishandled, improperly or overtorqued, that's when the locking bolt can weaken/get loose due to excessive stress on the housing threads/partial stripping, and THIS is what allows the lock bolt to loose it's grip on the plunger allowing the plunger to push back into the CCT allowing too much slack in the cam chain, affecting cam timing, as well as noise, as well as a chance to allow the cam chain to slip a tooth on a sprocket and then ruining valves in the process!!!

Yamaha realized the FLAW in their design, and that's why they engineered THE ACCT in their bikes in the not to distance future past the XS11 series! The SPRING of the ACCT is not stronger than the OEM, it's just that the ACCT has a RATCHET design on the plunger, so that when the chain gets enough slack, it allows the plunger to advance another ratchet notch to take up the slack, and can NOT slip back into the CCT housing due to the locking ratchet! But it's NOT putting excessive pressure against the cam chain guides.

So..it's this chance of the locking bolt to loosen and allow the plunger to recess back into the CCT housing with the OEM design that is the concern, not the spring pressure against the guides.

I have the modded OEM CCT using the tapped/threaded bolt design instead for personal reasons, but again, it's a fail safe design, it can't slip loose like the OEM bolt/plunger setup!

T.C.

[TopCatGr58]

I put an oscilloscope on the white wire inside the tach can...with the tach still connected.

Not the sine wave we would all expect. The voltage does increase with RPM, and the frequency increases with RPM. However, it does seem to saturate above 4k RPM - seems like less voltage increase with further increase in RPM.

I wiggled with tach and the wiring. Nothing really seems to reliably cause the twitching. Meanwhile it still happened above 4k.

Put it all back together and went for a ride.

Seems like next step is to try another tach.

Hey Mike,

I'm no electrical guru, but what you described makes sense, since the signal is a rectified pulsing DC due to the DIODE in line, and being 1 leg/phase of the 3 phase alternator....and that the ALT is supposed to reach max output at ~2500 rpm and above.

Not sure how much trouble it would be to swap tachs among your 2 bikes to compare? Also, another thing could be clutch slippage?? And same rear tire size/brand??

T.C.