Bad wheel, wheel bearings, or both?

[dbeardslee]

Hey DB ,

CAN YOU CANCEL THAT ORDER!?!?

Here's the Ebay one I was talking about, this guy has been selling them for some time now...months!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NA5904-SYI-New-Needle-Bearing-/131533379363

The BOX in the picture is just an advertising for the SYI bearings, and that's why it says both ROLLER and BALL bearings....but his bearing IS the NA5904 needle bearing...a few members on here bought them, and they were correct, and HAD the lubricating channel/holes down the middle as well!

T.C.

I did see those, but the ball and roller bearings part threw me. I think I'm going to stick with the NTN's. They're made in Japan and the SYI's are made in Taiwan. Might not make any difference, but I'll feel better about the part. Besides, I'm not the one paying for it. And little brother doesn't really have anything to complain about since he's not the one doing the work.

But I do appreciate the heads-up. Thanks, T.C.

[skids]

I think he's got several things wrong back there. BA80 sent me a PM and advised checking the swing arm bearings to make sure that's not where the deflection is coming from. .

Loose swing arm adjustment can make the bike act crazy!

[dbeardslee]

Loose swing arm adjustment can make the bike act crazy!

His main complaint seems to be related to the rotor which is showing excessive runout. He said he noticed it mostly in the feel of the brake pedal, but he said it wasn't exactly pulsing, but he could feel something weird. I don't think the swing arm would affect the rotor, but it looks like it could stand to have the bearings replaced. I do think the wheel bearings could affect the rotor's runout, and with the wheel showing similar runout it just seems all too coincidental.

His bike's got 61K miles on the odometer and I doubt any of those bearings have been greased since it drove off the showroom floor. I figure I'll replace the wheel bearings and the swing arm bearings while I've got the wheel off and see what we're left with afterwards.

[MPittma100]

Dial Indicator

[QUOTE=dbeardslee;476322]I've got an el-cheapo Harbor Freight dial gauge, but it works. One complete revolution of the needle is 1", and I was pushing it from zero to .20 and pulling it back past zero to .80. And I thought the same thing you did - those have got to be thousandths. But no joy - I looked at it real close ten times and no matter how hard I looked at it, it still read in hundredths every time.

To be clear, I am assuming by your post that you have a dial indicator. Most of them are 1 inch dial indicators. Each revolution is .100" (100 thousandths). 10 revolutions is 1 inch or 1.00".

Out of round tolerances vary by manufacturer. .060" (60 thousandths) is typically max run out allowed. The tolerance may be published in the service manual.

[dbeardslee]

To be clear, I am assuming by your post that you have a dial indicator. Most of them are 1 inch dial indicators. Each revolution is .100" (100 thousandths). 10 revolutions is 1 inch or 1.00".

Out of round tolerances vary by manufacturer. .060" (60 thousandths) is typically max run out allowed. The tolerance may be published in the service manual.

You know what? You're right! I looked at that thing a good ten times, but my eyes must be getting worse than I thought - it does measure in thousandths! I feel better and worse all at the same time.

So that means that both the wheel and the rotor are well within spec. Which has me thinking that little rubber bushing that the caliper slides back and forth on is probably what I need to check. Which is a heckuva lot easier than rebuilding the whole rear end.

Thanks MP100! You just saved me a lot of work.

[dbeardslee]

I think I've got it fixed, and it was the most obscure thing making the brake rub. I took the caliper off and pulled the rubber grommet out that allows the caliper to slide in and out. I cleaned it out good and lubricated it with silicon lube, put it back together, and everything looked good. Until I tightened that little screw that goes through the hole in the inboard brake pad. As soon as I tightened it down the brake rub returned. Took it apart again and found that the hole in the pad just wasn't quite big enough for the end of the screw, so I opened it up a tiny bit and as if by magic the problem was gone.

It was a heckuva lot easier than rebuilding the whole rear end. I still can't believe I misread the scale on that doggone dial indicator. If I'd been thinking it should have been obvious that the caliper couldn't have been moving .4" - the darned slot isn't that wide! I'll remember the scale the next time I use that little booger, though.

[tomcos67]

Good Read!!!? Learning to much ,,driving my mechanic nuts.!!!