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  • #1

    Clutch Adjusted Wrong?

    So, connecting the dots here . . . My rpm's are higher at 80 mph, and I notice that when I have my clutch pulled-in, shut the bike off, and let-go of the clutch, the bike faintly lurches forward (as-in, you feel a VERY small lurch). We all know that there should be no lurch, right?

    The weird thing is, the clutch friction zone seems normal. I'm wondering is this is a clutch slip or ill-adjusted clutch? Greg said it in the other thread regarding my rpm's being higher, and I DID just replace my clutch cable after it broke . . .
    1979 XS1100F
    2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
    Tags: None
  • #2
    When you installed the new cable, did you go back and start with the adjustment at the clutch, with the lever end of the cable adjuster all the way in? If not, that would be the start point. If it still slips at speed, then you probably need new clutch springs.
    Ray Matteis
    KE6NHG
    XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
    XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

    Comment

    • #3
      Originally posted by IanDMacDonald View Post
      So, connecting the dots here . . . My rpm's are higher at 80 mph, and I notice that when I have my clutch pulled-in, shut the bike off, and let-go of the clutch, the bike faintly lurches forward (as-in, you feel a VERY small lurch). We all know that there should be no lurch, right?

      The weird thing is, the clutch friction zone seems normal. I'm wondering is this is a clutch slip or ill-adjusted clutch? Greg said it in the other thread regarding my rpm's being higher, and I DID just replace my clutch cable after it broke . . .
      Ill bearing adjusted would be my suspect Ian, specially having replaced the cable with new. I'm sure you know adjustment STARTS at throw-out behind that right side round cover having full slack at cable lever end.
      81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

      Comment

      • #4
        The weather is getting dismal here by the day. I'll have to find a day to re-adjust the clutch following the manual.
        1979 XS1100F
        2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

        Comment

        • #5
          One thing about NEW cables, the tend to be a bit short to start but stretch out fairly quickly when you ride a lot.

          Last time I put a new cable on I had a helluva time getting it adjusted so it wouldn't slip the clutch, then after a few days it stretched enough so I couldn't get it in gear or in neutral with the engine running. There is a break in.
          Greg

          Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

          ― Albert Einstein

          80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

          The list changes.

          Comment

          • #6
            Originally posted by BA80 View Post
            One thing about NEW cables, the tend to be a bit short to start but stretch out fairly quickly when you ride a lot.

            Last time I put a new cable on I had a helluva time getting it adjusted so it wouldn't slip the clutch, then after a few days it stretched enough so I couldn't get it in gear or in neutral with the engine running. There is a break in.
            ......Additional good input
            81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

            Comment

            • #7
              Just an update: re-adjusted the cable about 5:30a in the parking lot before heading into the office. All the way in on the handlebar, then 1/4 turn out at the throw-out. Definitely a different experience now that the cable has stretched a little. We'll see if the rpm's drop once I hit the highway this evening.
              1979 XS1100F
              2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

              Comment

              • #8
                Nope, still same higher rpm's
                1979 XS1100F
                2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                Comment

                • #9
                  How old are the springs? What BRAND are the springs? how about the clutch plates? These are all related when something like this happens.
                  Ray Matteis
                  KE6NHG
                  XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
                  XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    I just put some new, to this bike anyway, frictions and steels in mine. The frictions that were in mine were the ones that were in that engine when I put it in about 6 years ago. I've been noticing some slight slippage at WOT, I could hear it now that the exhaust is LOUDER.

                    I pulled the cover to replace the 7 year old Barnett springs and figured I would check thickness on the frictions while I was there. They were all JUST above spec. I had another clutch pack on the shelf that had come out of The Green Hornet that had a bolt broken off in it so I checked those plates. They were all at the high end of spec. About .001" thicker than the others so I slapped them in there with some new Barnetts.

                    MAN! What a difference! I gotta be careful on slow corners now or the rear wheel kicks out with too much throttle.

                    Sometimes I just do it for fun....
                    Greg

                    Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

                    ― Albert Einstein

                    80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

                    The list changes.

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      Barnetts were put-in last year.

                      Only a couple things have changed since my rpm's elevated: went to a '78 mechanical advance and vacuum pod (it was previously a locked-out and modified advance, with a non-attached vacuum line), and I replaced my clutch cable
                      1979 XS1100F
                      2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        Here we go with the higher RPMs at a given speed because of tuning.....

                        If you are riding a bicycle do you have to pedal FASTER when you feel great to attain a speed that you attained pedaling slower when you weren't feeling so hot? Same diff my friend.
                        Greg

                        Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

                        ― Albert Einstein

                        80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

                        The list changes.

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          Test your clutch the hard way get up to about 6 grand in a slight up hill, pull slightly in on clutch full throttle as you dump the clutch and see if it catches or just continues to slip. If it continues to slip the RPM will go to redline pretty easy if it catches you should feel it and the rpms will drop back and then you accelerate. I agree with Greg using the tachometer speed against speedometer is not a test for slippage. All my plates and frictions were above spec in measurement and with Barnett springs and then shims it still slipped now with new frictions there is no slip. My frictions I feel were just deteriorated and would not grip.
                          To fix the problem one should not make more assumptions than the minimum needed.

                          Rodan
                          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khm6...liHntN91DHjHiS
                          1980 G Silverbird
                          Original Yamaha Fairfing and Bags
                          1198 Overbore kit
                          Grizzly 660 ACCT
                          Barnett Clutch Springs
                          R1 Clutch Fiber Plates
                          122.5 Main Jets
                          ACCT Mod
                          Mac 4-2 Flare Tips
                          Antivibe Bar ends
                          Rear trunk add-on
                          http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/viperron1/

                          Comment

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