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  • Need a TCI test on a 4R0

    I have a request for any '81 riders with a multimeter.

    I've been trying to track down a strange electrical problem, and the only thing that seems out of spec is the black/white wire coming from the TCI. If you have a 4R0 TCI, would you check the voltage on the black/white wire, with the ignition "ON" (engine NOT running)? The manual says it should have 6V, but mine is only about 1V. Just looking to confirm whether mine is actually "broken".
    1980 XS850SG - Sold
    1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
    Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
    Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

    Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
    -H. Ford

  • #2
    Just to clarify - you do the test by inserting a dmm probe from the back of the large connector on the TCI (while it's plugged into the TCI) such that you make contact with the black/white wire connector. The other lead goes to a good ground on the frame, and the test is done with the ignition on, but not running.
    I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

    '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by dbeardslee View Post
      Just to clarify - you do the test by inserting a dmm probe from the back of the large connector on the TCI (while it's plugged into the TCI) such that you make contact with the black/white wire connector. The other lead goes to a good ground on the frame, and the test is done with the ignition on, but not running.
      dbeardless, your pretty savvy on the more complicated electrical issues than I/ How bout we just let you amswer those more coplicated related electrical issues? My basic pri/sec, issues is bout as far as I go and was trained. Besides, color enlarged elec. diagrahms make smoke emit out my ears, usually.
      81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by motoman View Post
        dbeardless, your pretty savvy on the more complicated electrical issues than I/ How bout we just let you amswer those more coplicated related electrical issues? My basic pri/sec, issues is bout as far as I go and was trained. Besides, color enlarged elec. diagrahms make smoke emit out my ears, usually.
        Ho-old on thar baba looey! I don't know if I'm any better or any worse than anyone else, but I've got manuals and a dmm and I'm not afraid to use 'em. Besides, I hate to quit.

        Maybe you could answer this nagging question, Brant. I see by your signature you've got an '81 H, which I assume has a 4R0 TCI. Could we prevail upon you to run the voltage test on the black/white wire and see if you get 6 volts on it?

        We've looked and looked for any info on testing that's specific to the 4R0, but from what we can tell the procedures and voltages are the same for all XS11 TCI's. We were hoping to find someone with a 4R0 that they know is working properly so we can tell if CBugs zero volts on his Black/white is normal for a 4R0, or if he needs to think about getting another TCI.
        I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

        '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by dbeardslee View Post
          Ho-old on thar baba looey! I don't know if I'm any better or any worse than anyone else, but I've got manuals and a dmm and I'm not afraid to use 'em. Besides, I hate to quit.

          Maybe you could answer this nagging question, Brant. I see by your signature you've got an '81 H, which I assume has a 4R0 TCI. Could we prevail upon you to run the voltage test on the black/white wire and see if you get 6 volts on it?

          We've looked and looked for any info on testing that's specific to the 4R0, but from what we can tell the procedures and voltages are the same for all XS11 TCI's. We were hoping to find someone with a 4R0 that they know is working properly so we can tell if CBugs zero volts on his Black/white is normal for a 4R0, or if he needs to think about getting another TCI.
          Evwn in my herendous cond.after my herendous crsh on the STeed. I could uncover it, pull the seat and make the test. Give me a day to do it.
          81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by motoman View Post
            Evwn in my herendous cond.after my herendous crsh on the STeed. I could uncover it, pull the seat and make the test. Give me a day to do it.
            Thanks, Brant - you da man!
            I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

            '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by dbeardslee View Post
              Thanks, Brant - you da man!
              No problem. Since its been a bit over a year since started, may have to throw the 1amp charger on it for a ffew hours to get batt. to its peak voltage prior, but willin; to help if body cooperates for a bit.
              81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

              Comment


              • #8
                If I may jump in here guys, the Blk/Wht wire is, according to my schematic, the wire that goes to the tilt switch. It is fed from the internal voltage regulation circuit inside the TCI through a diode which only allows current flow from the TCI to ground. When the switch makes, (the bike gets over 60 degrees off plumb, if I remember correctly) it makes to ground which drops the voltage in the TCI so that the rest of the internal circuits do not work. If the voltage at that connection is less than 6 V, I would start looking at the rest of that tilt switch circuit for an un planned ground. If you are clever with your tools, you can pull that B/W wire out of the connecter, or disconnect the wire to the tilt switch, and see if that cures the problem. I would start at the TCI and disconnect there, see if that cures it, if so, hook it back and disconnect at the tilt switch. If that does not cure it, there is a short to ground some where between the two points.

                CZ

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by CaptonZap View Post
                  If I may jump in here guys, the Blk/Wht wire is, according to my schematic, the wire that goes to the tilt switch. It is fed from the internal voltage regulation circuit inside the TCI through a diode which only allows current flow from the TCI to ground. When the switch makes, (the bike gets over 60 degrees off plumb, if I remember correctly) it makes to ground which drops the voltage in the TCI so that the rest of the internal circuits do not work. If the voltage at that connection is less than 6 V, I would start looking at the rest of that tilt switch circuit for an un planned ground. If you are clever with your tools, you can pull that B/W wire out of the connecter, or disconnect the wire to the tilt switch, and see if that cures the problem. I would start at the TCI and disconnect there, see if that cures it, if so, hook it back and disconnect at the tilt switch. If that does not cure it, there is a short to ground some where between the two points.

                  CZ
                  Well. guess if needed I could pull the tank(full of treated 6.5gal of fuel} if the tip-over switch need access also. Hey, need to pull it anyways for the carb removal to access float lowering of .015
                  81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by motoman View Post
                    Well. guess if needed I could pull the tank(full of treated 6.5gal of fuel} if the tip-over switch need access also. Hey, need to pull it anyways for the carb removal to access float lowering of .015
                    I think he meant on CBugs bike. The manual just tells you to check from the black/white to ground with everything plugged in. That's the way I do it on mine, and I get 6V on the black/white. But I've got a 2H7 TCI, and we wanted to verify the reading on a 4R0 on a bike that's running properly.

                    We had the same thought about the emergency stop switch early on, but when you check from the black/white at the TCI to ground you basically bypass the switch.
                    I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

                    '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      All that needs to be done to check if it has anything to do with the tip over switch is to unplug it. It will become a moot point.

                      The tip over would affect ALL cylinders, not just 2. Y'all are off on a tangent.

                      The issue is either in the pick up coils (that's where I'm putting my bet), or the ignition coils. Most definitely electrical though because it's being caused by heat.

                      Of course I can't talk much, I chased an exhaust problem in my electrical/carburetors for a month or so.
                      Greg

                      Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

                      ― Albert Einstein

                      80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

                      The list changes.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        The thing is, everything else in the ignition tests to spec. The only thing that's been out of spec so far is the TCI - which has been resoldered four times.
                        I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

                        '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Nothing has been tested under HEATED conditions, or during failure. Obviously everything is going to test within specs when it's functioning.
                          Greg

                          Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

                          ― Albert Einstein

                          80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

                          The list changes.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by BA80 View Post
                            Nothing has been tested under HEATED conditions, or during failure. Obviously everything is going to test within specs when it's functioning.
                            He tested the pickup coils both hot and cold as well as while running. I don't know if he tested the ignition coils while they were hot. But the way he described the problem he said he could turn it off when the problem was exhibiting itself, and then start it back up and the problem will go away for "a few seconds" and then return. Certainly wouldn't hurt to test the ignition coils when they're hot, but if the problem goes away when the ignition is shut off and started back up it would seem to indicate that the problem may not be there while testing the coils since it's done with the motor off.

                            And the one thing that doesn't test to spec is his TCI.
                            I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

                            '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by dbeardslee View Post
                              And the one thing that doesn't test to spec is his TCI.
                              And, only the wire to the tip over switch. Once again, the tip over circuit will affect 4 cylinders, not just 2.

                              Another thing that doesn't make sense, when I read back through the other thread he stated it was cylinders 2 & 3. They share nothing fuel or ignition related.
                              Greg

                              Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

                              ― Albert Einstein

                              80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

                              The list changes.

                              Comment

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