Valvoline Vr1 racing oil.

[Chicagoxs]

Has anyone tried this oil in their xs? If so how did you like it?

http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/sho...searchTerm=Vr1

[jwhughes3]

I cannot see the rating circle on that oil. I have not used it, but unless the bottom half of the circle is empty, its not good for our wet clutch, shared sump setup.

I can tell you Castrol 20w50 conventional has an empty lower circle as does good old Walmart Supertech 20w50.


There are many, many oil threads to search through. The Castrol and Supertech are easy to find and reasonable cost and don't slip the clutch packs.

If it does not have friction modifiers (empty lower circle) try it and report back.

John

[Chicagoxs]

What circle are you specifically talking about?

[Prisoner6]

What circle are you specifically talking about?

The API service label/circle on the back of the oil bottle ... as you can see in this photo, the lower half of the circle is empty.



This is what John is referring to ...

[Prisoner6]

I found a listing for the VR1 oil you're asking about.

Here is what it says:

QUOTE:

==================================================
Valvoline 211 VR1 20w50 Conventional Racing Oil - High Zinc - Case of 6 Quarts


The #1 selling racing motor oil. High zinc provides race-level protection for any vehicle.

More NASCAR Sprint Cup and top NHRA crew chiefs use Valvoline. Valvoline Racing Oil's exclusive chemistry is designed to reduce friction and enhance power. It is among the most popular engine lubricants in all types of racing including paved and dirt ovals, and drag racing. Formulated for race engines, but compatible with passenger vehicles too.

High zinc/phosphorus provides extreme wear protection, including flat tappet applications

Additional friction modifiers to help deliver maximum horsepower

Enhanced anti-foam system protects engine during extreme stress

Compatible with gasoline or alcohol fuels
==================================================

So, it would appear this oil does indeed have friction modifiers ... and as John alluded to, these XS11 engines/clutches don't like friction modifiers.

[ViperRon]

Running with friction modifiers in the oil does not typically show up all at once. It will absorb into the cork material of the friction plates and there tends to cook in. So even though you put it in and it runs fine at first it can cause a an issue. I can say that if you feel any slip at first it will get worse and may take time to get it out even after oil is changed if then. There are technical threads you can find on the WEB that describe the effect of friction modifiers over time. However its a simple thought process. If the friction modifiers stick to a fine polished hardened steel surface and make it slip easier imagine what it does in a metal fiber/cork disk system.

[Chicagoxs]

Thanks ^, I'm going to look into what oil to use. I'm looking towards the rotella white bottle or the caste ok posted above.

[dbeardslee]

I'm thinking of giving Mobil 1 V-twin 20W50 a try. It's formulated to work with wet clutches, it's full synthetic so it will outperform and outlast dino, and it will still flow down to -40 degrees. Most oils start to thicken up below freezing, so if you run your bike when it's cold out that's a big plus.

[jetmechmarty]

I'm thinking of giving Mobil 1 V-twin 20W50 a try. It's formulated to work with wet clutches, it's full synthetic so it will outperform and outlast dino, and it will still flow down to -40 degrees. Most oils start to thicken up below freezing, so if you run your bike when it's cold out that's a big plus.

I have used it. No problem.

[TopCatGr58]

I'm thinking of giving Mobil 1 V-twin 20W50 a try. It's formulated to work with wet clutches, it's full synthetic so it will outperform and outlast dino, and it will still flow down to -40 degrees. Most oils start to thicken up below freezing, so if you run your bike when it's cold out that's a big plus.

Hey DB,

We've talked about using synth before...and with the loose ring tolerances of our engines, the oil gets contaminated fairly quickly, 2-3k miles, and usually requires changing at that time. SO....using $$ $ynthetic oil for durability seems a waste of $$. The regular oil doesn't necessarily break down as much as it gets dirty in the oil change time interval. But it's your $$. In really cold weather, folks like to run 10-40 since the engine doesn't really get that warm/hot in ~30-40 degree weather to need the 50 component!? YMMV.

T.C.

[motoman]

Have no problem with its use, but 20-40w, then later yrs. 20-50 w havent been an issue for 34yrs.either............and to old with more common sense!

[motoman]

Have no problem with its use, but 20-40w, then later yrs. 20-50 w havent been an issue for 34yrs.either............and to old with more common sense!

..........no longer 'bullet proof' either.

[dbeardslee]

Hey DB,

We've talked about using synth before...and with the loose ring tolerances of our engines, the oil gets contaminated fairly quickly, 2-3k miles, and usually requires changing at that time. SO....using $$ $ynthetic oil for durability seems a waste of $$. The regular oil doesn't necessarily break down as much as it gets dirty in the oil change time interval. But it's your $$. In really cold weather, folks like to run 10-40 since the engine doesn't really get that warm/hot in ~30-40 degree weather to need the 50 component!? YMMV.

T.C.

The other thing that intrigued me about the Mobil 1 V-twin is it's thermal properties. Supposed to be better at high temps as well as low temps. Dunno, but I figure I'll give it a try and see if I notice any difference. 3k miles is about all I ride in a year anyway, and I'd change my oil once a year whether it needed it or not. It's pretty pricey stuff though - $10.99 a quart locally.

[BA80]

Have no problem with its use, but 20-40w, then later yrs. 20-50 w havent been an issue for 34yrs.either............and to old with more common sense!

Anything else is just a waste of money and will possibly cause problems.

K.I.S.S.