Battery terminal boot fix

[dbeardslee]

I'm sure there's a lot of us that have the same problem - cracked, dry, deteriorated battery terminal boots. It's not like they really do much, but every time I look at one in that condition it kind of bugs me. But fear not gentle readers, I've got a fix for you.

I took a spark plug wire distributor boot out of a set of universal wires I used to do my coils, opened the plug wire end up with a 3/8" drill bit, and snipped off about 1/4" of the part that's supposed to go over the distributor terminal, put a little WD40 on the rubber part of the wire, slipped the boot over it, and voilà - brand new battery terminal boot for zero dollars and zero cents.

If I have to do it again - which I will on Betsy - I'll cut the distributor part of the boot back flush with the underside of the "wire end". But this is my brother's bike, and if he wants it perfect he can pull the terminal back off and fix it. And I'm positive this would work for the boot on the other side of that short wire too.

Here's a few pics -

Here's the old, cracked, nasty looking boot


And here's the shiny, clean, nice, pretty, new one

[motoman]

I'm sure there's a lot of us that have the same problem - cracked, dry, deteriorated battery terminal boots. It's not like they really do much, but every time I look at one in that condition it kind of bugs me. But fear not gentle readers, I've got a fix for you.

I took a spark plug wire distributor boot out of a set of universal wires I used to do my coils, opened the plug wire end up with a 3/8" drill bit, and snipped off about 1/4" of the part that's supposed to go over the distributor terminal, put a little WD40 on the rubber part of the wire, slipped the boot over it, and voilà - brand new battery terminal boot for zero dollars and zero cents.

If I have to do it again - which I will on Betsy - I'll cut the distributor part of the boot back flush with the underside of the "wire end". But this is my brother's bike, and if he wants it perfect he can pull the terminal back off and fix it. And I'm positive this would work for the boot on the other side of that short wire too.

Here's a few pics -

Here's the old, cracked, nasty looking boot


And here's the shiny, clean, nice, pretty, new one

No need if you scrub ALL the pieces with water and baking sodaa(baking soda nuetralizes the batt. acid). After clean, put back together and spray whole area including terminal connection wirth batt. terminal cleaner. Just another of my forte expertese areas over many a decade.

[dbeardslee]

No need if you scrub ALL the pieces with water and baking sodaa(baking soda nuetralizes the batt. acid). After clean, put back together and spray whole area including terminal connection wirth batt. terminal cleaner. Just another of my forte expertese areas over many a decade.

What's that got do do with the boot?

[dbeardslee]

I thought about it, and figured I could adjust the boot without removing the cable, so I just pulled it back and removed about half of the "skirt." Now it fits like I want it to and covers almost all the exposed part of the positive terminal...

[motoman]

What's that got do do with the boot?

Re-read my post and FOLLOW it to a tee. That rubber boot ISN't gonna save ANYONE from internal corrosion caused from current flow.

[dbeardslee]

Re-read my post and FOLLOW it to a tee. That rubber boot ISN't gonna save ANYONE from internal corrosion caused from current flow.

It's not there for corrosion. It's there in case you get something in close proximity to the cable 'cause if you make metalic contact between the positive battery terminal and the frame it's going to spark.

[skids]

I thought about it, and figured I could adjust the boot without removing the cable, so I just pulled it back and removed about half of the "skirt." Now it fits like I want it to and covers almost all the exposed part of the positive terminal...

Now that looks real good. I have a boot that is broken like yours was. I just replaced the plug wires on the Dakota Pickup. Must go the trash can and fish one out!

[dbeardslee]

Now that looks real good. I have a boot that is broken like yours was. I just replaced the plug wires on the Dakota Pickup. Must go the trash can and fish one out!

I'm going to replace the boots on Betsy next, but this time I think I'll leave the 'skirt' at its full length and just remove the sides where the plastic on the battery protects the terminal. I think I can get full coverage around the terminal all the way to the bottom that way. And while I've got the cable off the battery I think I'll replace the lower boot too. They're both pretty ratty.

[motoman]

It's not there for corrosion. It's there in case you get something in close proximity to the cable 'cause if you make metalic contact between the positive battery terminal and the frame it's going to spark.

Follow your reasing. unfortunately, not having things wire brushed clean with baking soda and water, sprayed with terminal sealer just hides the ongoing corrosion.

[dbeardslee]

Follow your reasing. unfortunately, not having things wire brushed clean with baking soda and water, sprayed with terminal sealer just hides the ongoing corrosion.

The way you can tell the boots are just there for electrical insulation is that there's only a boot on the positive terminal, since it's the only one that will cause a problem if you inadvertently connect it to the frame. The negative one is already connected to the frame.

I've never had a problem with corrosion on motorcycle batteries, and I use those little felt discs on the battery terminals on my jeep and spray them with WD40 and I don't get any corrosion on that one. But as batteries age and the plastic gets old corrosion tends to be more of a problem, and all my batteries are pretty new right now. But I'll definitely keep the baking soda in mind 'cause I'm sure I'll see it again one of these days.

[motoman]

What's that got do do with the boot?

To add......boot has noting to do with the look. Its the still left contaminated connector that does, even though it may 'look' clean'.

[motoman]

The way you can tell the boots are just there for electrical insulation is that there's only a boot on the positive terminal, since it's the only one that will cause a problem if you inadvertently connect it to the frame. The negative one is already connected to the frame.

I've never had a problem with corrosion on motorcycle batteries, and I use those little felt discs on the battery terminals on my jeep and spray them with WD40 and I don't get any corrosion on that one. But as batteries age and the plastic gets old corrosion tends to be more of a problem, and all my batteries are pretty new right now. But I'll definitely keep the baking soda in mind 'cause I'm sure I'll see it again one of these days.

In your last statement.....'see it again' won't cut it my friend/ If ypu 'see' any corrosion, it's alrady to late. Baking soda mixed with a bit of water in a small cup to dunck them in for awhile.............then pull them out, dribble some more baking soda on them and wire brush them. Then riot nce clean. THEN those connections will be good to go. After re-connecting don't forgrt to hit them with a shot of batt, sealer............from a reputable battery dealer, not from wally world.

[MPittma100]

Corrosion

Buy the AGM batteries for you bike and cars and corrosion issues will disappear.

[CatatonicBug]

Buy the AGM batteries for you bike and cars and corrosion issues will disappear.

You'll also spend 1/3 again more, and have to replace it just as often.

The best corrosion prevention I've seen, and used for years, is anti-seize. When the battery is new, just lightly paint the entire terminal with it, and it will protect against corrosion as well as improve the electrical conductivity. Do the same on all ground connections. No boots on my battery. Mine rotted away too, and it's more hassle to deal with lifting it out of the way than the spark protection it offers.

[dbeardslee]

[HIJACK OFF]

Okay, I'm going to bring this thread back on topic - which is rubber boots, not corrosion.

And speaking of boots, I made up some for Betsy on both ends of the positive battery cable, and it does in fact work on both ends. Here's a few pics of the finished cable.

Here's the upper boot with the skirt left long...


And here's the lower boot, which only required opening up the ends and clipping about 3/8" off the skirt...


And this shows both ends...


The tools I found to work best for opening up the ends is a dremel tool with a conical abrasive bit, and a steel rotary file. I used the abrasive bit first, and it makes short work of the task at hand. It also gets the rubber very hot, so gloves are in order. Then I used the rotary file to open up the "bolt end" and to tune the "wire end" a bit. Be careful - if you stick that rotary file too far in the "wire end" it will grab the boot and sling it. DAMHIK But you have to push it in just about as far as it will go for that to happen.