Klunk when shifting

[motoman]

We are in same boat.Get all the riding you can in before the freaking snow flies!!!Another good habit is Start in first clutch Depressed instead of neutral. Avoid that First clunk.(,read that somewhere here) I always started in neutral for some reason,not any more...Here's something to think about! When winterizing put 10w40 in ,,,so in spring when we can't wait to ride and its 40 degrees outside not so hard on engine as the 20w50....I broke my bike out in March ,rode with snowmobile suit.After last winter...Have a nice Oct....

Untrue.........back in 81 The oil available then was 20-40w. Bike sat outside covered, which I somewhat enhanced using a heat lamp under it. Never did I vary from the 20-40w. Used it year-round. Now we use 20-50w which I aalso don't vary from year round. 34+ yrs. and it still runs just fine. Winterizing........what the heck is that all about? Someone got you pumped full of BS akso.

[tomcos67]

oil

I

Untrue.........back in 81 The oil available then was 20-40w. Bike sat outside covered, which I somewhat enhanced using a heat lamp under it. Never did I vary from the 20-40w. Used it year-round. Now we use 20-50w which I aalso don't vary from year round. 34+ yrs. and it still runs just fine. Winterizing........what the heck is that all about? Someone got you pumped full of BS akso.

That was just my thinking ..Driving in the colder temps, thought that might be easier on bike ,,starting and such...Only for a month or so.Was riding in 32degree weather ..A lot...Last spring..Makes for a lot of cold starts????

[dbeardslee]

I

That was just my thinking ..Driving in the colder temps, thought that might be easier on bike ,,starting and such...Only for a month or so.Was riding in 32degree weather ..A lot...Last spring..Makes for a lot of cold starts????

If you're running it really cold I could see where that could potentially be beneficial. Starting a motor tends to be the hardest on it since the oil has to get pumped up into the motor for lubrication. When temps drop below freezing motor oil starts to thicken up, and it's not going to pump very easily. But I don't know that 10w40 is going to be much less thick than 20w50 at really cold temps. Mobil 1 has a 20/50 motorcycle blend that's supposed to work okay with wet clutches, and that stuff isn't supposed to thicken down to -40 degrees. JAT

[motoman]

I

That was just my thinking ..Driving in the colder temps, thought that might be easier on bike ,,starting and such...Only for a month or so.Was riding in 32degree weather ..A lot...Last spring..Makes for a lot of cold starts????

That's a heat wave!..............try it when temps were daily -20--28 degrees!.

[tomcos67]

[QUOTE=motoman;475123]That's a heat wave!..............try it when temps were daily -20--28 degrees!.[/QUOTE
Freaking cold weather !Hate it....Iam not even going to start my bike this spring,till its 50°.,,,why torture her (Ethel)..Thank you....

[motoman]

[QUOTE=tomcos67;475135]

That's a heat wave!..............try it when temps were daily -20--28 degrees!.[/QUOTE
Freaking cold weather !Hate it....Iam not even going to start my bike this spring,till its 50°.,,,why torture her (Ethel)..Thank you....

Well, mine was new then...........and was wanting to wear the newness off.........plus, at 31yrs. old, I was still freeze-proof and bullet peoof.Had 11mi. one way to work since I lived 11mi, north of Durango,Colo. on Hiway 550. Some of you even know that area having ridden there in the past. That's my 'home' town and where I bought my Venturer new........actually rode it off the show-room floor and out the door, and never took it back for anything. Now THAT'S dependability.

[mack]

Starting in 1 st

You don't have to start it in first gear. The clunk is part of the design. The primary shaft consists primarily of two sections. The one on the left side is dedicated to handling the snatch going into first from neutral and the torque generated during racing power shifts. This section has five or six heavy preloaded cylindrical cone type springs on one end of the shaft, while the other end of that section has opposing deep contoured groves that react with each other when the snatch occurs. These motors were very well designed and nothing happens within that design that wasn't precalculated. The other section on the primary takes the power from the hyvo chain and transfers it from the center of the motor to the outside of the block (on the right side) to pick up the clutch assembly.

[dbmb0416]

I've been topping off with 10w 40 so hopefully can break out early. Tanks and fenders painted over winter by my painter friend. 50 degrees here in upstate Ny. Yuck

[tomcos67]

You don't have to start it in first gear. The clunk is part of the design. The primary shaft consists primarily of two sections. The one on the left side is dedicated to handling the snatch going into first from neutral and the torque generated during racing power shifts. This section has five or six heavy preloaded cylindrical cone type springs on one end of the shaft, while the other end of that section has opposing deep contoured groves that react with each other when the snatch occurs. These motors were very well designed and nothing happens within that design that wasn't precalculated. The other section on the primary takes the power from the hyvo chain and transfers it from the center of the motor to the outside of the block (on the right side) to pick up the clutch assembly.

Informative !!!nThanks!!!!!

[motoman]

If you're running it really cold I could see where that could potentially be beneficial. Starting a motor tends to be the hardest on it since the oil has to get pumped up into the motor for lubrication. When temps drop below freezing motor oil starts to thicken up, and it's not going to pump very easily. But I don't know that 10w40 is going to be much less thick than 20w50 at really cold temps. Mobil 1 has a 20/50 motorcycle blend that's supposed to work okay with wet clutches, and that stuff isn't supposed to thicken down to -40 degrees. JAT

THAT my friend IS oil pumped by gears in a gear driven pump. So, having said that, the oil, no matter its temp, is gonna be pumped IMMEDIATLY no msatter its temperature, otherwise the two gears that do the DIRECT pumping would shear teeth..........and that ain't happenin'.......C'mon folks, are you REALLY that bored to have to make up $$it?

[dbeardslee]

THAT my friend IS oil pumped by gears in a gear driven pump. So, having said that, the oil, no matter its temp, is gonna be pumped IMMEDIATLY no msatter its temperature, otherwise the two gears that do the DIRECT pumping would shear teeth..........and that ain't happenin'.......C'mon folks, are you REALLY that bored to have to make up $$it?

Huh? The pump is gear driven, alright, but the thing that does the pumping is the pump shaft assembly - part #2 in the diagram. It sucks the oil up through the sump if the oil will flow, and if the oil won't flow it just goes around and around until it will. Once the oil heats up it thins out and flows more easily, and a motor that's not getting lubrication is going to heat up pretty quick. Not good for the motor, though.

Watch the oil pressure gauge in your car when it's cold out. The pressure will be real high when cold since it's trying to pump that thick oil through the lines. Once it warms up and the oil thins out the oil pressure drops.

[motoman]

Huh? The pump is gear driven, alright, but the thing that does the pumping is the pump shaft assembly - part #2 in the diagram. It sucks the oil up through the sump if the oil will flow, and if the oil won't flow it just goes around and around until it will. Once the oil heats up it thins out and flows more easily, and a motor that's not getting lubrication is going to heat up pretty quick. Not good for the motor, though.

Watch the oil pressure gauge in your car when it's cold out. The pressure will be real high when cold since it's trying to pump that thick oil through the lines. Once it warms up and the oil thins out the oil pressure drops.

Cold oil creating higher pressures is the true part. Pump pick-up being submerged at all times is like the siphon effect. It is ALWAYS primed. So, there you have it, Oil is pumped at all times, even when cranking over motor. If you haven't had one of these motors apart before, can ubderstand you not being able to follow that principle.

[dbeardslee]

Cold oil creating higher pressures is the true part. Pump pick-up being submerged at all times is like the siphon effect. It is ALWAYS primed. So, there you have it, Oil is pumped at all times, even when cranking over motor. If you haven't had one of these motors apart before, can ubderstand you not being able to follow that principle.

I understand the principle just fine. I understand a little bit about fluid dynamics, too.

[STEPPENWOLF]

I have always run 20-50 in my bike.No problems,make sure it is neutral,I always pulled the the clutch in,I was taught that and did it in every car or truck I drove.
Oil is like tires,we all have an opinion.It all works tho

[motoman]

I understand the principle just fine. I understand a little bit about fluid dynamics, too.

Totally countradicks your post #26. Keep 20-50w in that scoot year round my friend.