Carb holders

[NorCoaster]

Small like this? http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...e+fuel+filters

[NorCoaster]

Say. I was just looking at literally all the wiring and found two connectors unclipped. One was for the fuel sending unit and the other for the flasher cancelling switch(I have a Clymer's that I used for reference). Neither would cause any of the problems I'm having, would they?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Nor,

First, yep those filters are fine, they are for lawnmowers, and seeing the nipples being 1/4" you can extrapolate it's overall size.

I got my O-ring set a couple of years ago, and I didn't see a VITON set when I was there! Thanks Nate, yes VITON is the better type. If you already got the other one, you should be able to exchange it for the Viton one.

You're saying you were able to charge the battery and get the bike started, but this is where I don't quite understand...you say it won't HOLD? IF the battery is truly GOOD, then the bike should be able to run for some 15+ minutes just on the battery. If the bike won't stay running, there may be other problems than just the charging system. You could put your car battery jumped in parallel with the bike battery...CAR ENGINE OFF, and start the bike and see if it will keep running.

Corrosion causes lots of problems where the actual components may not be at fault. There are three large connectors BEHIND the fuse panel plate where the ALT plugs into the Harness. They don't get inspected/cleaned because they are hidden and forgotten. Then they corrode, then can actually MELT the housing due to the resistance, heat that develops...and too much resistance prevents proper charging. Also, the reg/rect grounds thru it's housing, along with a bunch of other ground wires that bolts to one of it's mounting holes and to the frame....take off/apart, clean, apply copper infused antiseize between frame and connectors and bolt/nut combo and reassemble. Other ground points are not just the main battery cable, but also the extra engine to frame grounding strap at the starter area to under the carbs/battery...you'll see it, clean, etc., same as for the R/R connectors.

After cleaning, if you can get the bike started, set throttle to 2500 and check for ~14.5 volts across battery, if so, then it's charging! If only 12 or less, then further troubleshooting will be required!

T.C.

[NorCoaster]

By saying the battery won't hold, I mean that it won't hold the charge after I shut the bike off. It'll run for however long I'm riding, but won't start back up again if I let it sit for even an hour. It'll start right back up after shutting it off to fill up the tank, so I'm somewhat inclined to believe that there might be a constant draw somewhere. The battery was pulled when I had it tested at my local O'Reilly Auto too so I'm sure it tested good(even with the acid levels being slightly low). I've read all the posts on testing the R/R and ALT, but will take a look at(and clean) all the grounds and connections for them again before testing.

[NorCoaster]

Wow. So it just started after sitting for 20hrs...those two plugs that were disconnected must've been what the problem was. Or...? Still gonna run voltages, but all I can think is "What the f***?!?!" Haha

[DiverRay]

unplug both plugs again, and use a VOM set to Amps to connect one wire at a time between the plugs. The wire that shows more than 0.08 Amps is the suspect. Will take a while, but should tell you what color, and so what device is shorting out.

[NorCoaster]

Wound up being the flasher cancelling switch...fixed it and battery will hold now, but it's acid levels are depleted enough for me to have to buy a new one.

Separately. I should be replacing the gaskets for my carb bowls when I tear em apart and put them back together, right? Can I use Permatex Ultra Black or should I order the OEM ones?

[DiverRay]

I almost never replace the gaskets. IF they are torn, then yes, get new ones. If they come off in one piece, or stay on one side, then re-use them IMHO.

[NorCoaster]

Good to know. I just pulled the bowls and these carbs are clean as hell...gaskets are in GREAT shape and there's zero residue...seriously looks like they were just rebuilt. Separately, do those of you who've eliminated the octy use the same style plug on the vacuum fitting on the petcocks as on the air barb on the carb boots?

[DiverRay]

No, as it's not designed for gas, just air. The rubber is a little different compound. I think there is a thread that shows how to tap the front nipple and put in a set screw sealed with loctight, for a nicer looking setup.

[bikerphil]

For a fuel proof plug, I use a 1" long piece of auto fuel line and stuff a ball bearing in one end.

[NorCoaster]

I had a feeling something like this was the cheap way.

So, I've seen a few things about not installing the gaskets that come with the carb holders, but I don't like the idea of installing what's basically an intake manifold without a gasket in place. Thoughts?

[bikerphil]

I use RTV instead of the gaskets. If you do this, make sure to wipe the excess from the inside, you don't want a 'lip' in there to impede the flow.

[Prothec]

So, I've seen a few things about not installing the gaskets that come with the carb holders, but I don't like the idea of installing what's basically an intake manifold without a gasket in place. Thoughts?

The gaskets that come with them are thin and cheap. I use them as templates and cut new ones out of better quality automotive gasket sheet. For the bolt holes, I use a small piece of 1/4" copper tubing hit with a hammer to punch them out. The large center hole is the hardest part.

[NorCoaster]

Awesome. Thanks guys. I chose to just go with the ones that came with them for now since I only get to ride for about another month before I put her in storage for the winter. Got all the bugs worked out though...new float valve orings, fully cleaned carbs, ran new(non-octy) fuel lines and got the carb boots on. She is purring her heart out now and I couldn't have done it without the lot of you. Be prepared for LOTS of photos this winter...lots of hours(and mods) are going to be put into her.