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  • oil drain plug

    Just now changing oil . Tighting oil drain plug one turn to many.Now what do I do. Won't go in or out.Head still on.???????
    1980xs1100.sg Pacifica Fairing ..stock.
    2006 Honda Shadow Spirit 1100.! ⛺

  • #2
    Back it out. Contact andreashweiss for a replacement pan and you'll need a gasket. While you're at it, pick up a torque wrench. Hurry up. XSSE is three weeks away.
    Marty (in Mississippi)
    XS1100SG
    XS650SK
    XS650SH
    XS650G
    XS6502F
    XS650E

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    • #3
      pan

      Tom

      I think I have a pan if you need one quick
      82 XJ1100J
      81 Venturer
      Newly acquired Aches N Pains collection

      Comment


      • #4
        Try to get a flat head screwdriver tip behind the bolt head and pull outwards as you are removing the bolt. Once it's out, you may be able to find a suitable larger plug for stripped out threads at auto parts. May even be able to use some teflon tape depending how badly stripped the pan is.
        2H7 (79) owned since '89
        3H3 owned since '06

        "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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        • #5
          Originally posted by jetmechmarty View Post
          Back it out. Contact andreashweiss for a replacement pan and you'll need a gasket. While you're at it, pick up a torque wrench. Hurry up. XSSE is three weeks away.
          Actually no gasket is needed. Bothh surfaces ARE machined. Clean ALL oil residue from both surfaces. Put a thin film of HighTempGrey Permatex silicone on one or the other surface. Bolt pan back in place and wait several hours before adding correct and correct amount of oil. Do NOT use synthetic nor semi synthetic oil. Mine has been on this way now for 6plus yrs. with not so much as a weep nor wet spot anywhere. Still have the new pan gasket in its folder on shelf in man-cave.........where it can stay for now.
          81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by motoman View Post
            Actually no gasket is needed. Bothh surfaces ARE machined. Clean ALL oil residue from both surfaces. Put a thin film of HighTempGrey Permatex silicone on one or the other surface. Bolt pan back in place and wait several hours before adding correct and correct amount of oil. Do NOT use synthetic nor semi synthetic oil. Mine has been on this way now for 6plus yrs. with not so much as a weep nor wet spot anywhere. Still have the new pan gasket in its folder on shelf in man-cave.........where it can stay for now.
            +1....Except you really don't need to wait. It can be used right away
            Greg

            Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

            ― Albert Einstein

            80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

            The list changes.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by BA80 View Post
              +1....Except you really don't need to wait. It can be used right away
              Very true Greg, but just was throwing in a bit of 'safe factor'.
              81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by motoman View Post
                Actually no gasket is needed. Bothh surfaces ARE machined. Clean ALL oil residue from both surfaces. Put a thin film of HighTempGrey Permatex silicone on one or the other surface. Bolt pan back in place and wait several hours before adding correct and correct amount of oil. Do NOT use synthetic nor semi synthetic oil. Mine has been on this way now for 6plus yrs. with not so much as a weep nor wet spot anywhere. Still have the new pan gasket in its folder on shelf in man-cave.........where it can stay for now.
                Thank You!!! Will do...over.........
                1980xs1100.sg Pacifica Fairing ..stock.
                2006 Honda Shadow Spirit 1100.! ⛺

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hey Tom,

                  Mike posted this photo in another thread about a damaged pan he had!



                  This is a photo of a temporary type repair drain plug you can get at your local NAPA! IIRC, it's a 14mm diameter SELF TAPPING larger portion that can be used to retap threads to secure the newer bolt. THEN it has the smaller INNER bolt that can unscrew to allow draining of the oil, so you don't keep moving the large bolt and run the risk of messing up the newly cut threads. SO.....this can provide a temporary or permanent quick repair. Take your OLD bolt with you to match up to the new one, you want one a little bigger to be able to have room to cut threads into and allow a seal!

                  T.C.
                  T. C. Gresham
                  81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                  79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                  History shows again and again,
                  How nature points out the folly of men!

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                  • #10
                    Pan

                    i found a pan and plug I can give to Tom I have never changed one will Tom need to pull the exhaust or any other tricks to get him up and running?
                    Also it's off a 79 are all pans the same?
                    82 XJ1100J
                    81 Venturer
                    Newly acquired Aches N Pains collection

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I think it's just 10 6mm socket head bolts that need to come out. A few of those bolts hold wiring clamps. It should be straight forward.

                      After all these years, these bolts and the case have some galvanic corrosion going on. The bolts will pop loose as that corrosion bond is broken. Clean up the bolts and put some anti seize compound on them going back in. Snug them up. Don't crank them down Hercules tight!
                      Marty (in Mississippi)
                      XS1100SG
                      XS650SK
                      XS650SH
                      XS650G
                      XS6502F
                      XS650E

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Oil Pan

                        Shipped Tom a spare I had. I hope this gets Tom on the road in speedy time
                        82 XJ1100J
                        81 Venturer
                        Newly acquired Aches N Pains collection

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Oil pan thread repair

                          I experienced a slight drip from my oil pan drain plug and thought it was the washer. This is the second bike that I have had this problem with. Turns out the washer was not the problem with either bike. Both had stripped drain plug threads!

                          I replaced the pan on the first bike with a good used one from Adreas. It corrected the problem, but was a LOT of work. Being faced with the second failure recently on my daily rider, I thought "there must be a better way".

                          I first looked at Heli-Coil. Did not really like the idea of having to drill, then tap the hole. Not sure that you could line up a drill properly to do so. So, I looked elsewhere.

                          I went into my shop and found a spark plug hole repair kit made by Sav-A-Thread. Kit part number is 5334-14 (Google it). It has a tap, 3 thread inserts of varying lengths, and a mandrel to secure the insert in the hole after installing. The middle length insert appeared to be the best choice. No drill bit. No drilling required.

                          The tap itself is 2 taps in one. The smaller starting tap on the end pilots into the damaged threads and makes a perfectly straight entrance for the second part of the tap. I used grease to catch the debris. I went a step further and poured some mineral spirits in the oil fill hole. I let it drain and then used compressed air to insure that all thread shavings were out.

                          The hole was perfect. The insert required some sealer and screwed in flush by hand. I then used the mandrel (punch) provided to lock the insert in with a few light taps from a hammer. I used Ultra Grey sealant. Let it cure overnight. It looked like a professional repair. Maybe Yamaha should have done this originally?

                          There is one more item that has to be purchased to complete this repair. I made sure that is was available prior to starting the procedure. The part is a new drain plug. The reason being is that the old drain plug threads are 14mm-1.50. The new threads are 14mm-1.25 (same as a spark plug).

                          The new drain plug was in stock at my local Advance Auto Parts store for $3.99. It has a new washer, the correct threads, and even has the same size (19mm) head on it. Part number is 65256.

                          I did search for a similar kit with 14mm-1.50 thread, but did not locate one.

                          Try this next time you have this problem. Hope it helps.

                          Mike
                          Last edited by MPittma100; 08-24-2017, 04:15 PM.
                          1981 XS1100H Venturer
                          K&N Air Filter
                          ACCT
                          Custom Paint by Deitz
                          Geezer Rectifier/Regulator
                          Chacal Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
                          Chrome Front Rotor & Caliper Covers
                          Stebel Nautilus Horn
                          EBC Front Rotors
                          Limie Accent Moves On In 2015

                          Mike

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                          • #14
                            Woops

                            Sorry for the double post.
                            1981 XS1100H Venturer
                            K&N Air Filter
                            ACCT
                            Custom Paint by Deitz
                            Geezer Rectifier/Regulator
                            Chacal Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
                            Chrome Front Rotor & Caliper Covers
                            Stebel Nautilus Horn
                            EBC Front Rotors
                            Limie Accent Moves On In 2015

                            Mike

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Not any more, Mike.
                              Ray Matteis
                              KE6NHG
                              XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
                              XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

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