What is the clutch boss?

[KA1J]

I'm replacing the clutch on the XJ11 Friday (tomorrow) and following the excellent guide here

http://xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-tips/...eel-plate.html

It mentions the clutch boss but I don't know what part that is on the photos displayed in the link.

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks

[mack]

boss

The clutch boss is the piece that the friction disc's and steels fit into.

[KA1J]

Thanks Mack. Now I can get on with it..

Gary

[trbig]

A clutch boss is a good boss that backs you up in a bad situation!

[Radioguylogs]

... or a boss that disengages when the going gets tough or when he/she feels like coasting.

[KA1J]

LOL, that... sounds like a perfect description of my Ex...

So I got the clutch replaced but it didn't help my issue. It appears I need to do the dremel fix. It's not shifting as easily as it did earlier, harder to shift with the shifter, not the pull at the handle. I will re-adjust it tomorrow, maybe the extra steel plate was not the right thing to do but regardless, it still skips in 2nd gear. Doesn't pop out of gear exactly but it stays in 2nd but with obvious drivetrain hiccups with hard acceleration. Doesn't do this in any other gear.

I really don't want to turn the bike over and do that repair. Don't see many other choices though.

Decisions, decisions.

[motoman]

LOL, that... sounds like a perfect description of my Ex...

So I got the clutch replaced but it didn't help my issue. It appears I need to do the dremel fix. It's not shifting as easily as it did earlier, harder to shift with the shifter, not the pull at the handle. I will re-adjust it tomorrow, maybe the extra steel plate was not the right thing to do but regardless, it still skips in 2nd gear. Doesn't pop out of gear exactly but it stays in 2nd but with obvious drivetrain hiccups with hard acceleration. Doesn't do this in any other gear.

I really don't want to turn the bike over and do that repair. Don't see many other choices though.

Decisions, decisions.

Not much choice fixin' that second gear issue. The hard shifting at the shift lever is cause the shift mechanism at he throw-out bearing assembly IS incorrectly adjusted. Back the cable off completely, remove the inspection cover on right side and correctly adjust the throw-out bearing FIRST, then adjust correct slack at cable.

[bikerphil]

I really don't want to turn the bike over and do that repair. Don't see many other choices though

More choices...

1.Take the engine out of the frame, roll it over and upside down and do the repair.

2. Do the repair with the bike right side up laying on your back. This is my preferred method and I have done many this way. You can put jack stands on each side back by the rear footpegs to raise it up higher than the center stand, and also, the center stand will not be in your way when you crawl under there.

3. Winch the front end up with a motor hoist or a come along so you can get under there and do the repair. I have done it this way too and works just as well.

Good luck!

[DiverRay]

maybe the extra steel plate was not the right thing to do but regardless, it still skips in 2nd gear. Doesn't pop out of gear exactly but it stays in 2nd but with obvious drivetrain hiccups with hard acceleration. Doesn't do this in any other gear.

REMOVE THE EXTRA STEEL PLATE!!! This was a "fix" BEFORE everyone figured out that not all "heavy duty" clutch springs are the same!
If the bike is making a "machine gun noise" when you jump on it in second gear, it's time to do the fix. IF you wait too long, you will be needing shift forks and other parts that are getting harder to find.
For the rest of the riding season, I would pull the extra plate, properly adjust the clutch AND shifter, and just take it easy in second. Do the fix while its raining, or snowing depending on your local weather.

[KA1J]

Thanks for the replies.

I must not have the throw out bearing adjusted properly but I tried to do it exactly as described here: http://xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-tips/...eel-plate.html

I'd loosened the adjustment screw two turns, tightened the lock nut and then when I re-assembled I brought the screw in to where it contacted, unscrewed again and then re-contacted. lastly, I backed it out 1/4 turn and tightened the lock. The arm was in the proper position and the assembly was rotated at its neutral position, meaning the arm was out as far as it could go.

Perhaps the reference to the extra plate should be removed from the tech help link above, I followed these instructions to the letter as best as possible (except I used the red permatex anaerobic gasket maker instead of making a new gasket) as I know nobody to ask & come over who knows about these bikes.

I'll remove the extra plate today and see if I can get better results after re-installing the clutch.

I'm hesitant to do the dremel as with my luck I'll cut them in the wrong direction...

Gary

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Gary,

Apologies for the extra steel tip! We have discussed this faux paux over the years, and now every time someone posts about their clutch slipping, we always tell them about the BARNETT springs, and also tell them NOT to do the extra steel procedure. I have NOW just editted the tip to reflect this current info, and again, sorry to have put you thru the work, extra expense, and risk to your star plate having to R&R it again!

The extra steel does fill up the basket alot, which doesn't allow much room for the throwout rod and adjustment...and believe it or not...not having a gasket removes even more adjustment room because it puts the clutch case/cover that much closer to the clutch assembly/throwout bearing.

I'm still running the extra steel plate in MY clutch, and so far it's not shown any signs of slipping with the standard OEM style springs...but I'm sure it's just a matter of time....and I'll be removing it and installing the BARNETT's the next time I go back in there.

Believe it or not, another technique to compress the springs more was to install washers under the springs before putting them and the star plate. Some folks then experienced breaking of their star plate and blamed the extra washers for it...but it was just the situation of them not properly aligning the star plate, and then slowly carefully tightening the star plate bolts, and occasionally pushing and rocking the star plate while monitoring the ends of the plate to make sure that the stalks of the pressure plate were fitting WITHIN the lip edge of the prongs/fingers of the star plate. But again, this is also not needed with the Barnett Springs...but the same caution/care is required when reinstalling the star plate....and the tech tip does provide good info and photos of the rest of the procedure.

T.C.

[KA1J]

Hey there TC, no worries. So it's a bit of work to undo, not the end of the world and I don't mind the wrenching. Now the tech help page will be easier for the next person so it's all good.

I'm doing the re-rebuild today as the GF talked me into going to a music festival instead of doing the clutch Saturday. Perfect geetar & banjo picking weekend and today I'll remove the plate so it's another 2 hours to re-do, tops, easy peasey.

I'm just so grateful for the tips and the nifty new pneumatic and battery powered impact tools to do the job right, makes it all so much faster to accomplish.

Cheers!

Gary.