On way to powder coater. Suggestions?

[mrhammer2u]

Getting new rubber and figured it's a good time to spruce up the wheels since the paint is chipping. Getting the discs done as well. Sticking with black. Just can't decide if I want the flat black (stock look) or some level of gloss, semi-gloss or satin.

Thoughts?

I wish Yamaha didn't put so much raised lettering on the wheels. Looks like hell up close.

[DiverRay]

DO NOT POWDER COAT THE REAR WHEEL!!! You can, IF you can pull the rubber out of the wheel first. The cush drive rubber is VERY HARD to get out and back in without causing damage. Other than that, I'd go with a satin finish black if you can. Looks good, but will not show everything a gloss will.

[mrhammer2u]

I settled on a matte black after a picture he showed me. These wheels are too rough for the gloss.

He did see the rubber grommets in the rear wheel and seems to have experience with them. He didn't think it would be a problem?
Do you have 1st hand experience with these melting or distorting?
Are they removable?
Are they replaceable?

[mrhammer2u]

BTW,..they're going to replace the rear bearing because they said they're really not re-usable after they're removed. Are these available aftermarket? Hoping it's not going to be an issue.

[DiverRay]

I do not have first hand experience as I do not powder coat. I do remember reading a thread a few years back that someone DID have a problem with the rubber. IF your guy has worked with rims like this, he should be OK with it. The bearings... Three of them are readily available from all balls and most bearing supply companies. The hard one to get is the rear roller bearing. There was a thread in the last few months that a new member started, and he is able to get them for under $35 if I remember correctly.
Oh, and I don't powder coat because I live too close to the ocean. Powder coat will lift off in sheets after about 5 years, and paint will not, and it's easier to touch up.

[mrhammer2u]

The powder coater just told me he's done lots of bike wheels with the cush drives in. I'll have to take him at his word....fingers crossed.

Glad to hear the bearing is available.

Feel better now,..phew!!

Thanks Ray!

[crazy steve]

Those rubber bushings aren't replaceable, and there's been at least two instances of guys powdercoating their wheels and the bushings have failed. When that happens, the drive spider is now free to 'move around' causing noises from the rear drive and accelerated wear on the drive/final drive splines. Heat ages rubber, and every 10C/19F increase in temp doubles the rate of aging.

The bearings in the front wheel and the brake side of the rear wheel are all sealed and can't be exposed to cure heat. Those will need to be replaced. The drive side rear bearing can be taken apart, leaving just the outer race in place.

You might get away with it if the coater uses a reduced cure temp (in the 350F degree range). If you think this shouldn't make any difference, keep in mind that springs have to be cured at this lower temp or they lose their temper and will sag after curing. The lower cure temp will also give you a less-durable coating.

I've been powdercoating smaller stuff at home for about ten years and would never powdercoat a part with rubber parts; it kills the rubber. I have yet to run into a commercial coater who takes the care needed for some jobs...

[mrhammer2u]

Thanks Steve. I think he said he cures at 400. The front bearings were pulled so I just have to replace the rear. I'm going to roll the dice and let the "professionals" do their thing. If it doesn't work out they'll be buying me a new rear and doing it over again the right way.

Will update the thread when I get them back on the road.

[mrhammer2u]

Picking up wheels at lunch. I feel like a kid on Christmas morning!!!!

Hopefully the rubber bushings did not melt . I'm sure he would have told me by now if they did.

Will post some pics ASAP.

[crazy steve]

...Hopefully the rubber bushings did not melt . I'm sure he would have told me by now if they did.

They don't melt, they just lose all elasticity. If they were gotten too hot, they'll fail in use after some time (maybe short)....

[mrhammer2u]

Just back from picking up my wheels. If this weren't such a civilized forum I would be using a LOT of curse words right now

He said he would polish the lip. He took 60 grit sand paper to it!!!!! And left it like that!!! "I was like, what the F???? They're worse then when I brought to you. You said you would polish". He claims he did not say "polish". If he said he was going to SAND the lip I would have said NO WAY! The lip was fine. Just needed a little nevr-dull. He 100% said polish!

I'm not even posting a pic because I'm sick about. The shop whose doing the mechanical work said they would do what they can to make them look better.

The rubber grommets look baked but my mechanic says they should be fine. This guys been building ground up, customizing and racing bikes for many years. Vintage and new. All I can do is take his word for it.

Arrrrgghhhhh!!

[crazy steve]

Look here.... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39869

Those scotchbrite discs are really the hot deal for wheel lips. Put your axle in a vice, slide the wheel over it, then use those to clean up the lip, letting the wheel rotate slowly. If you're reasonably careful, you won't damage the coating.

[mro]

High temp engine paint
Ford Black, sorta satin finish

When time and other things allow I do all my own work with the tools I have.
I don't have a powder coater although the fenders were done by a friend who has a powder coating company.

mro

[mro]

BTW,
not trying to usurp your thread, just showing what can be done.
Checking here before I did my first wheel I was told as you were about the rear wheel possible problem and was not willing to put it in an oven....

mro

[mrhammer2u]

Looks great MRO. In retrospect I could have been happier, and richer, with some tape, my exacto kife and some rattle can black. Live and learn.