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  • #16
    Originally posted by MPittma100 View Post
    Tig weld for this application is the best choice. Any welding to driveline parts is going to affect the original strength of the metal, but tig will be the least intrusive. The driveline is not likely to fail with this mod as it is not the weak link as compared to other components. Just not enough torque output to break the driveline.
    It WILL break at that type of connection though............that's a given. Just a word of advice form one whos' BTDT in other applications........and a metalurgest who is also a certified welder. BTW, you'all havin' fun yet with my replies?..........you should as they are from my professional hands-on experience, not guessing.
    Last edited by motoman; 09-02-2015, 11:28 PM.
    81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by motoman View Post
      It WILL break at that type of connection though............that's a given. Just a word of advice form one whos' BTDT in other applications........and a metalurgest who is also a certified welder. BTW, you'all havin' fun yet with my replies?..........you should as they are from my professional hands-on experience, not guessing.
      I'm not sure you're gettin' what I'm talking about. Right now there's a 16mm copper spacer in there that isn't connected to the yoke at all. What I'm talking about doing is replacing the copper spacer with a welded extension on the yoke. I don't see how that could possibly be weaker than what's there now, and I want it there primarily to eliminate any possible end play at the tip of the yoke as the swing arm goes up and down, and to get more spline engagment.

      I'm going to borrow a pic from 3Phase to show you what I'm talking about doing -

      I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

      '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

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      • #18
        This thread caught my attention. I installed an XS850 final drive on my 'F' over a decade ago. It did not require any welding. I don't remember which shaft I used, but have not had any problems. I drove it very hard.
        DZ
        Vyger, 'F'
        "The Special", 'SF'
        '08 FJR1300

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Dennyz View Post
          This thread caught my attention. I installed an XS850 final drive on my 'F' over a decade ago. It did not require any welding. I don't remember which shaft I used, but have not had any problems. I drove it very hard.
          And I don't anticipate a problem with it either, and I probably have about 10k miles on the mod. IIRC TRbig recently posted that he's got over 200k miles on the original 750 FD mod, and he's on his fourth engine with it. My problem is, I can never leave well enough alone.
          I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

          '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

          Comment

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