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Observations on SS lines

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  • Observations on SS lines

    So last week I got a Techna-Fit SS brake line kit for XS1100F. The lines were real nice and even included the rubber grommets for the retention straps. Unfortunately the upper front line they sent me was too short, and I had to wait for them to send me a longer line - which they did quickly, and at their expense.

    That was last friday, and I wasn't about to let the bike sit all weekend waiting for a brake line, so I just put the old upper line back on until I got the new one. I rode it for about a week like that, and frankly I didn't notice much difference with the lower SS lines than with all rubber lines. Thursday the new line came in, and I installed it yesterday.

    What a difference that one line made! I don't know if it's because the SS lines are smaller diameter, or because the old rubber lines expand, but braking is WAY more positive now. I would have never thought that a single rubber line would rob that much brake performance, but it did.

    And I noticed something else too - these SS lines made the system WAY easier to bleed than the big rubber jobs. I should have done this a LONG time ago.

    I got the idea to go with Techna-Fit from a thread I read on XS11.com, and I'm pretty glad I did. The kit came with everything needed for the installation, the banjos had the proper angles on them, and I liked that they included the rubber grommets for retention. They handled the short line issue quickly, and I'm a pretty happy guy.

    And one more thing - years ago someone on this forum passed along a tip for renewing copper crush washers. The tip was to heat them to red hot and drop them immediately in a glass of water. It re-anneals the crush washers and allows you to reuse them. I haven't bought a crush washer since then, and it works like a charm. You just have to be careful to just heat them till they glow red 'cause if you heat them too long they'll get soft and deform. I heat them twice because I hold them in the flame with a pair of needle nose pliers, and I'm afraid the pliers will act like a heat sink. By doing them twice I insure they're annealed well all the way around.

    So to whoever it was that posted the original annealing instructions - my eternal gratitude. That was a GREAT tip!
    I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

    '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

  • #2
    Annealing copper washers

    It isn't necessary to quench them and may even be undesirable. Just let them cool. Copper washers are great for drain plugs, too. I hang them from a piece of stainless steel safety wire and get them to glow cherry red. Done.

    Marty (in Mississippi)
    XS1100SG
    XS650SK
    XS650SH
    XS650G
    XS6502F
    XS650E

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by jetmechmarty View Post
      It isn't necessary to quench them and may even be undesirable. Just let them cool. Copper washers are great for drain plugs, too. I hang them from a piece of stainless steel safety wire and get them to glow cherry red. Done.

      I've been quenching them for the last four or five years, and never had a problem. Get's 'em back in action quick too. I do have some safety wire out in the mancave - might try hanging them the next time. But the line kit came with new crush washers, and I re-annealed all the old ones, so it will be a while before I need to heat any again. I'm crush-washer-rich right now.
      I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

      '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

      Comment


      • #4
        OK. I did some research. You're right.

        The copper can also be air-cooled instead of by water, but it will not be as soft and malleable after it has been annealed.
        Marty (in Mississippi)
        XS1100SG
        XS650SK
        XS650SH
        XS650G
        XS6502F
        XS650E

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by jetmechmarty View Post
          OK. I did some research. You're right.
          Thanks for the clear-up. I guess I'll stick with my usual method. Besides, I like to hear 'em sizzle.
          I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

          '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

          Comment


          • #6
            For the record, it's ferrous metal that you mustn't quench.
            Marty (in Mississippi)
            XS1100SG
            XS650SK
            XS650SH
            XS650G
            XS6502F
            XS650E

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by jetmechmarty View Post
              For the record, it's ferrous metal that you mustn't quench.
              I know if you take steel and quench it, it gets real brittle. Hard... but brittle. If you let it cool slowly it gets soft. Sure wish I knew how to temper steel - that skill would come in handy.

              That's why it seemed weird to me when I first heard about this trick that you'd heat copper and then quench it to anneal it. But weird or not, it sure works.

              I went through my brothers entire braking system a month or two ago and rebuilt everything. I annealed his crush washers and reused them all with nary a leak.

              It's not so much the cost of new crush washers, but the ones we use seem to be an uncommon size, and the ones I usually find locally have a bigger OD. Being able to reuse what I've got saves a lot of time and hunting around for new ones.
              I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

              '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

              Comment


              • #8
                That's right. You can't quench steel when you anneal it. I'm really not sure if it matters whether you quench the copper or not. My oil drain plug has a copper washer that I may have annealed over a dozen times.

                As far as tempering steel goes, you got the first part down when you quenched it to make it hard. After that, how it's tempered depend upon how hot you get it. Blacksmithing might be an interesting hobby.
                Marty (in Mississippi)
                XS1100SG
                XS650SK
                XS650SH
                XS650G
                XS6502F
                XS650E

                Comment

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