Forward controls, new pipes, and a bunch of questions

[OMCC]

So I'm doing a lot of work on my bike this weekend including

Installing forward controls and a new set of beautiful mac 4-2 turnouts
changing my bobber seat to a king and queen-esque saddleman seat
Having to modify my rear fender yet again to fit it (grumble grumble)
Adding passenger pegs
converting to acct
switch out the main jets for 142.5
synch, synch, synch

questions

When painting the inside to the exhaust to prevent blueing most kits say to pour the formula through out the entire pipe does this include the muffler or just the headers? Also will any high temp paint work or does it have to be kreem?

How do I install TC Forward controls while retaining the oem shifter and brake?
I forgot to order the universal linkage kit but I'm kinda glad I did as that kit requires you to destroy the OEM parts. is there a way around this? I took a look at TC's custom job but couldn't quite figure out how he did it.

Plus the kit says to use locktite to secure the bolts and while I don't doubt this is a very good Idea I am worried not liking the controls and then being stuck with them is there any good way of loosening locktite?

since I am going to have the pipes off anyway I thought now is a good time to put on the acct I bought I while back but am a little concerned about snapping the bolts. I snapped two exhaust studs while removing my old exhaust to patch it, a fix that only lasted two weeks before a particularly nasty pot hole snapped one of them in half (grumble grumble).

I know the CCT leaks oil like a stuck pig is the risk of those rusted solid pretty low? what about the cam cover?

I don't want to brick my bike while there still at least 8 weeks of good ridding left to be had.

How does the seat bolts work? I know that sounds stupid hear me out. the seat I got has two bolt coming out of the bottom near the back they line up with what I assume is the mounting brackets welded on the frame. the bracket seems two small to fit a wrench to turn a nut to secure the seat down am I missing something here?

Does anyone one know what size nuts are required for the rear pegs?

thanks all!

[kboehringer]

Answers for a couple items

Plus the kit says to use locktite to secure the bolts and while I don't doubt this is a very good Idea I am worried not liking the controls and then being stuck with them is there any good way of loosening locktite?
..............How does the seat bolts work? I know that sounds stupid hear me out. the seat I got has two bolt coming out of the bottom near the back they line up with what I assume is the mounting brackets welded on the frame. the bracket seems two small to fit a wrench to turn a nut to secure the seat down am I missing something here?

Does anyone one know what size nuts are required for the rear pegs?

thanks all!

OMCC,
Unfortunately, I feel comfortable to add my two cents with only one or two of your questions. The others will need to wait for the more experienced XS11 guys.

LOCKTITE:
As I am sure you are aware lock-tite comes in several different varieties. Some versions require 1500 degrees+ to get 'em loose once cured. At work we use several different versions depending on what the OEM asks for on the equipment in question. I prefer to use the blue (medium strength) on anything and everything that needs it on a car or motorcycle. I've used blue on: header bolts, flywheels, damper bolts, etc. It holds well for all those items without issue if it is used on a clean parts. It does not require a torch to get it off. Sometimes I need to "warm it" a bit to get it re-flowing but that is very rare.

SEAT BOLTS:
The seat bolts on my bike (SG) can not be reached with a wrench. I use a 12mm deep well socket to reach up behind my pull bar and get the nuts on/off. Slide the bolts with the nuts barely on and push them forward in the slots. Engage the front clip under the frame/tank area first. Set the rear of the seat down and then slide the bolt w/nuts rearward into the grooves of the frame brackets. I tighten them only very firmly and don't I don't get too crazy cranking on 'em.

PASSENGER PEGS:
I just double checked my passenger pegs. They are: M10 x 1.5 (Nut has 14mm Head)

Hope this helps a little.

KURT

[CaptonZap]

I'll take the exhaust question. I don't care what the people selling the coating tell you, you cannot use it with any hope of success on used pipes without some SERIOUS prep on the pipes. Once the pipes are used, there is a build up of carbon on the inside of the pipes. Soot, in other words. Then, in addition, you will get some unburned oil, depending on the condition of your engine.
I don't know if you have ever dealt with a wood stove, but if you have, think about trying to paint the inside of the stove pipe.
There are ways to clean the inside of the headers down to CLEAN, BARE metal, but they are time consuming and messy. But, without that prep, there is no hope of any coating getting a firm adhesion to the metal.
Then you come to the mufflers. Crazy Steve had some pictures of the inside of a muffler, and it is a labyrinth of passages and chambers, and the chances of getting it cleaned, and then completely coated are slim to none, unless you had a complete immersion and rotation in the coating bath.
The coatings CAN be applied inside to new pipes, after the insides have been degreased and prepped, but XS pipes are a long way from new. Some places will clean old pipes, to prep them for inside coating, but they charge handsomely for the cleaning.
As has been stated, the ceramic coatings are fairly easy, and look good until the high temperature at the exhaust ports dull the shine for a few inches on the pipes. ( This assumes a single wall pipe. If you have the stock double wall headers, the ceramic coatings will stay shiny for a long time.
Bing "ceramic exhaust coating" for places that do that sort of coating, and be prepared to pay.


CZ

[crazy steve]

...and a new set of beautiful mac 4-2 turnouts

If the exhaust is new and UNUSED, you can use one of those coating kits (carefully following directions). Otherwise, as CZ says, the coating won't stick. And they literally have to be unused; 10 minutes of use is enough to make them 'used'...

You only need to coat the headpipes; DO NOT attempt to coat the mufflers. Generally, you only need to coat the part with the first two bends in the pipes coming from the head, once you get to the collector exhaust gas temps have fell off enough that bluing isn't an issue. And order two kits; these are really for Harleys, one kit is enough to do two head pipes, you have four. I'd seal the head flanges and pour the compound in from the collector end.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there OMCC,

I haven't looked closely at TC Bros forward controls so not sure about their mounting kits and such?? That said, here's what I did to retain the OEM shifter function. I cut an L shaped plate that I mounted BEHIND the OEM shifter lever. I used a U clamp to secure the shifter lever to the plate. The other end of the L plate is what I mounted the swivel joint onto....that way the forward control can move the shift lever via the joint and back plate, and still have the OEM shifter lever.

The Brake lever was a bit more complicated. Because the brake lever is much longer and would require too much distance of movement, I used a welder to make a separate lever that pushes down on the brake pedal. I made a bracket that mounted behind the footpeg mount, and also had a shaft with a thick piece(1/4") welded to the shaft. I had the shaft welded to a piece of flat iron that acts as the LEVER arm that the forward control connects onto. The lever is ABOVE the brake pedal, and when the lever is activated, it rotates and the thick piece of metal pushes down on the brake lever to actuate it. This way I can still actuate the OEM pedal with my foot on the OEM pegs, but also allows use of the forward lever. Hope this explanation helps you understand how I did it.

Take a look at this thread with regards to the ACCT process, it actually is about another version/mod, but the techniques for keeping the slack out of the chain when you REMOVE the CCT is the same.
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...nute+cam+chain

The CCT mounting bolts are NOT exposed to the same levels of HEAT that the exhaust studs are, so with a squirt of PB Blaster on them can help in penetrating to the threads before trying break them loose.

As said, you need to use a socket and extension/ratchet to get the seat bolts loose...but they STAY on the seat....just unscrew them till they stop, don't try to totally unscrew them from the threaded section! Then as stated, you slide them forward to clear the frame slots...you will need to push the seat forward a little also. I have used a large straight screwdriver stuck in from the side to help push the nuts around the slots. Then when putting the new seat on...under the tank first, again use the screwdriver to help push the heads of the nuts below the frame slots..then slide them rearward, and then retighten...just snug!

T.C.

[OMCC]

Thanks Kurt, Tc, steve, and zap great advice all around.

I realized the PO had hacked off the seat brackets thats why it wouldnt fit. Manufactured a replacement all good now.

I think Im going to return the Tc kit as it is incompatible with new mac 4-2 pipes i put on plus the position of the pegs is just weird now that I have an OEM seat the bend in my knees is a lot less so its by far more comfortable to ride in the standerd position. If. I do install forward controls in the future I think I'm going to follow Topcats method.

I replaced the cct with a acct it was surprisingly easy pb is magic.

Thanks again yall!