Is my clutch going?

[mrhammer2u]

I'm going to try and explain. Not easy to explain feel and sound over the the interweb...

At WOT when she gets into the upper rpm range something changes. It's not abrupt and I don't lose power. But I can hear the exhaust/motor noise change pitch and/or speed,..if that makes any sense. It seems as if it starts to slip but I'm still accelerating. It's kind of like in an automatic car when it downshifts a gear. When I punch it in the lower rpm range this does not happen.

About 35k miles on bike and I have no idea if clutch was ever serviced. At what mileage do they usually need service?

Thoughts?

[DiverRay]

Three words: Barnett Clutch Springs
Problem solved.

[Prisoner6]

Three words: Barnett Clutch Springs
Problem solved.

Rob,

These are available from Partzilla ...

Look HERE:

Barnett Clutch Spring Kit

[ViperRon]

With what needs to be done replacing the springs you may want to pull out the plates and frictions and clean them up as per the thread TC wrote. It has good pictures and write up. If you have them out you can measure the frictions to see if worn clean the metal plates and then you know what you are dealing with. Most have cured problems with replacements of springs but since you have it out check it all.

[BA80]

Gotta ask..................what kind of oil are you using?

[mrhammer2u]

Gotta ask..................what kind of oil are you using?

My memory is awful but 20-50 for motor and 80 or 90 (this is where I'm having memory fart) gear oil. Whatever gear oil is recommended is what I'm using.

[mrhammer2u]

For $10 I can get the friction plate. Should I? Yamaha or Barnett?

[trbig]

A friction plate? x 7?

I doubt your discs are bad after that few miles unless they were all done at the race track. I've been into a lot of these motors and only seen one fiber disc out of spec. Barnett Springs will fix you up, but will be a lot more pull at the clutch handle. Sucks in traffic jams.

[1887]

My clutch is acting up too. To know for sure, just grab a handful of throttle (pin it) in all gears at 7,000 and see what happens. If your clutch is really euchre'd it might end up over revving so take caution. My clutch is done; I have not torn into it yet, I am hoping I can get away with just some spring.

[ViperRon]

The frictions in these bikes can last many thousands of miles with no problem. The issue with a lot of the bikes is what has been done to them. The best thing to do is make sure the adjustment is good that the mechanics and cable are not binding. If that does not resolve the issue take out the clutch replace the springs with Barnett springs clean the frictions and measure them for thickness check for warp and burn spots. Check the metal plates for warp remove all rust and you can ruff them up some with like 60 grit sand paper. Clean all grit out soak the cleaned frictions in some clean motor oil put it back together and try it. If it still slips check your adjustments cable etc and if convinced you have everything right then there are several friction plates that will give good wear. Our original are cork and rubber and work fine if someone has not used some oil additive like slick 50 etc etc to mess them up. Mine had been damaged and I replaced them with a set of paper packed plates made in china that also fit in the R1. They work fine and I definitely have no more slip in fact they grip instantly. TopCatGR58 did a good pictorial of taking out and installing the clutch to follow by.