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Clutch slipping at 6k

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  • Clutch slipping at 6k

    I have owned my 1980 Standard for three months now. Most of the time I have owned I have been fixing/maintaining but have managed to put about 1,200 KM's on it. In that time I have changed the oil twice (and filter) with Castrol motorcycle dino oil 20w50 (no friction modifiers).

    Over the weekend I was twisting the grip more than usual and noticed that the clutch starts to slip north of 6,000 RMP. It almost completely gives out, once i drop it to 5k or so its fine.

    I have read that some people have luck just changing the springs and that some brands are better that others for the ole XS11. Any advice is appreciated.

    Thanks
    1980 G
    Jardine Spaghetti

    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/Ug...ish/slideshow/

  • #2
    cluth

    I used to think mine was slipping, or coming out of overdrive, but later found that this was the strong part of the power band, not clutch slipping, and there is no kickdown, just hitting the power band. This was on my SF. The F does a bit of that but not nearly as strong as the SF.
    put something smooooth betwen your legs, XS eleven
    79 F (Blueballs)
    79 SF (Redbutt)
    81 LH (organ donor)
    79 XS 650S (gone to MC heaven)
    76 CB 750 (gone to MC heaven)
    rover has spoken

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    • #3
      I bought a set of standard cork plates off of ebay for $39
      http://www.ebay.com/itm/271219832861...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

      and a set of Barrett clutch springs for cheap. I do not rem what the springs cost. You will also need a clutch cover gasket. You could try the springs first. How many miles on the bike?

      Bill
      1980 XS1100 SG
      Jardine Spaghetti with Harley Mufflers

      Comment


      • #4
        Clutch springs might stop it, but if you had a bunch of stuff in the oil that looked like kitty litter (assuming you changed it) then it might be time for new pressure plates. My brother's was slipping and I just put a new clutch in his last week. Doesn't slip now. And it's not too tough of a job, and there's a good how-to thread that shows how to do it. Just be REAL careful with that star plate - whether you're just doing the springs or a full clutch job. If you don't get the springs set in there correctly, or you don't tighten it down correctly, you can brake the star plate, and then you're out of business 'till you get a replacement.
        I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

        '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

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        • #5
          You could also try to adjust the clutch down at the engine, under the clutch cable cover.

          Bill
          1980 XS1100 SG
          Jardine Spaghetti with Harley Mufflers

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by BowlingSS View Post
            You could also try to adjust the clutch down at the engine, under the clutch cable cover.

            Bill
            That's a gooood idea. Always try the simple stuff first.
            I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

            '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

            Comment


            • #7
              I will try adjusting it and see if it makes a difference, its worth a shot.
              1980 G
              Jardine Spaghetti

              http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/Ug...ish/slideshow/

              Comment


              • #8
                Same problem, same bike, same RPM range. Adjustments did nothing. Figured it was time for a clutch job. scored OEM fibers on fleabay. Same with Barnett springs. Took it apart. All the fibers and steels were well within spec. Springs were WAY off spec. Went ahead and replaced springs and fibers since I was in there. Slip problem gone. I betcha you can get away with new springs and dressing the fibers and steels. Oh, and that little star thingy everyone talks about, no forgiveness there. Once you hear the "pop", its too late. Take your time, watch how everything comes apart. Check the clutch basket for excessive wear.
                When a 10 isn't enough, get a 11. 80g Hardbagger

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                • #9
                  I am glad it worked out. That was fast. I need to replace mine also. It is just waiting on me.

                  Bill
                  1980 XS1100 SG
                  Jardine Spaghetti with Harley Mufflers

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Just one more thing. Aside from the adjustment at the engine, you should also take the clutch cable OFF, and check it for ease of movement. Lube it while you have it off, and ensure that the routing doesn't involve any sharp turns. A sticky clutch cable can also contribute to not releasing the clutch lever completely keeping the throwout rod engaged allowing the clutch to slip.

                    The tech tip is the one about the Extra Steel plate MOD/Repair...I think I editted it since then explaining how that tip was made many years before discovering the Barnett Springs. SO...we don't really suggest the extra steel plate technique now....just good Barnett springs...and resurfaced steels and fibers within spec!

                    T.C.
                    T. C. Gresham
                    81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                    79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                    History shows again and again,
                    How nature points out the folly of men!

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