I really hate to feel this needy, but...

[madmax-im]

Thanks for all the help, the bolt worked, no more haunting
Next up: misfire on the highway, idles fine. Turn signals only work sometimes. And second gear is slipping again. I seem to remember the PO telling me he had paid someone to fix second, and it only lasted a few weeks. Anybody have any idea what could cause that?

well you have the endemic tranny failure where the gears are no longer fully engaging...dunno what the PO did but obviously didnt do it the right way...theres a whole lot of info on the 2nd gear dremel fix...BTDT as have many others here...In my case I went the big $$$ route and bought brand new factory back cut gear sets 1/4 and 2/5 and just swapped out the old ones...still some wwork involved but no dremels...backcut gears will never break again but it set me back a tad over $500 way back in 2008 or 2009 cant recall.. the dremel fix is a much cheaper...

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there again,

The beginning of this thread implied that YOU did the 2nd gear fix, but then later on you say the PO had someone do the 2nd gear fix? Now you describe it skipping again. However, if the PO had the gears fixed prior to you acquiring it, then are you sure you're sensing the actual gear skip symptom? You actually say "SLIPPING" in your post. IF you're experiencing a slipping of the clutches....where the engine rpms increase but you don't feel any increase in road speed.....then that would be clutch slipping, but not gear skipping. The skipping sensation is quite jarring and noticeable....when the dogs/slots separate under stress/load/throttle...the engine is disengaging from the transmission and then when it re-engages there's a definitive jolt.

So....just wanted to get some clarity on your description of the symptoms so we can better assist in the diagnosis. The clutch slowly becomes tighter as it wears, and requires readjustment to set the throwout rod tension to ensure it's full release. Readjusting it may help solve the slipping....if in fact it's slipping....not "skipping".

PS Max/BNE....the stock new gears are not available anymore, as well as like you said, were rather cost prohibitive.

The turn signals require quite a bit of current to make the thermal relay cycle. It could be corroded connections that are causing reduced voltage being able to get thru the circuit. Could also be the incorrect wattage of bulbs....the turn signals are supposed to be 27 watts, are special motorcycle specific for vibration stress endurance....but automotive 1157's are often only 23 watts...so less current draw so the flasher relay doesn't get hot enough to cycle. Also, just poor ground connections can also prevent the current flow....both the lights ground wires to the frame, but also the grounding components WITHIN the light stalk can form corrosion at the bulb socket and other contact points that aren't easily seen unless you take the lens off.

Also, are you still running the OEM fuseblock, or have you converted to the ATCO solid fuses? That's another weak point in the electrical circuit.

T.C.

[motoman]

Ok, so after everything this summer, did first/second gear fix, got through the clutch problems I created with that, got 2 amazing weeks of riding when, on my way home from work the other day, bike starts to misfire. got it home, making a rattling noise, like ghosts dragging chains. Spark plugs didn't look too bad, changed them anyway. I did the cam chain adjustment. Misfire seems to be gone, but if anything the rattling is worse. Any ideas?
Thanks
I really do wish I could offer more help to others here then just being a cautionary tale...

Go to the auto adjuster out of thr XV Venture, as the stockadjuster will NOT hold the salck out and WILL slip on a hard deceal

[Hmar]

Problem seems confined to second gear. PO told me he had second gear fixed several years ago. When I bought the bike it would drop into neutral if I tried to put it in second. I performed the Drexel fix at the beginning of this summer. It seemed to work for about 2 weeks. When i say it is slipping, I put the bike into second gear, it seems to accelerate, stop accelerating, accelerate over and over until I shift to third. Right around here it begins to misfire. The misfire gets worse as the bike goes faster.
As far as the blinker goes, it seems to work alright for right turns, but the lever is hard to move left, takes several tries to get it to make connection. I took it apart and cleaned it, seemed better but once I put it back together it behaved the same.

[Hmar]

Also, I have not changed the fuse block, not sure what PO might have done. I will look when I get home. Thanks.

[motoman]

H'mar, your bolt looks like Tod's did, a Japanese pointy hat!

I think I have a spare two-step bolt for the late-model XS/XJ transmission, send me a PM. Is the washer still good or did it get beaten to death making the Wham-O Hula Hoop shoop-shoop sound on the bolt?

T.C., the picture is a two-step bolt with the special washer for the skinny bearing. The early model bolt looks the same but without the steps and a separate washer so I imagine that it's not nearly as spooky sounding with no spacer washer to play sling-and-ring if the bolt comes loose.

.

That was the bolt out of mine you saw Scott.

[TopCatGr58]

Problem seems confined to second gear. PO told me he had second gear fixed several years ago. When I bought the bike it would drop into neutral if I tried to put it in second. I performed the Drexel fix at the beginning of this summer. It seemed to work for about 2 weeks. When i say it is slipping, I put the bike into second gear, it seems to accelerate, stop accelerating, accelerate over and over until I shift to third. Right around here it begins to misfire. The misfire gets worse as the bike goes faster.
As far as the blinker goes, it seems to work alright for right turns, but the lever is hard to move left, takes several tries to get it to make connection. I took it apart and cleaned it, seemed better but once I put it back together it behaved the same.

Okay, "YOU" fixed the 2nd gear, now you say that you are giving it throttle, it will accelerate but then stalls, the starts to accel, stalls...you also say it's got a miss. If it's not hammering out of gear...just that you are experiencing power....then kinda like it looses power, then power again...that's not the 2nd gear. Sounds like you may need to check out the PU coil wires.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=543

See this advert for a replacement fuseblock.
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showpost.p...5&postcount=10

Info,pricing, all correct, have in stock ready for shipping.

T.C./ADMIN

[Hmar]

Sorry to leave this thread hanging so long, I did check the pick up wires, and followed your instructions. It fixed the misfire. Still can't ride in second gear. Had some issues with a neighbor messing with the bike, tipped it over in my yard a couple of times, and someone poured water in the oil. I changed the oil 3 times, seems to run ok now. Now it doesn't seem to go into 5th gear, not sure what caused that. It's not like second where it goes in but won't stay, its like there is no fifth gear at all, lifting the lever past fourth acts like I am already in the highest gear. Could damage from being knocked over cause this? Everything else seems to be fine, I'm, as usual, at a loss here.
Also, TC, what advantage does the replacement fuse block offer?
Thanks

[trbig]

Sounds to me like you need to get a new 2nd gear. If you grind the gears and don't do the washer swap to get 2nd closer to 5th, then it's pretty likely to happen again.

If it won't go into 5th and acts like 4th is the top gear, I'm guessing that the pin on the shift drum have fallen out or been bent. You'll need to take the shift cover off on the left side to check that.

Like these here.. Check to make all 5 are there.



Your shifter pushes and pulls those pins to shift. If a pin is missing or bent, (A skipping transmission causes this frequently) it can't shift.

[MaximPhil]

Also, TC, what advantage does the replacement fuse block offer?
Thanks

Hi Hmar,
i'll answer this one The replacement fuse panel uses the modern fuses which are much more reliable in transmitting the 12 volts we all need and crave. new style Fuses are much easier to find when on a trip. The old original fuse panel is now so suspect that any electrical issue is next to impossible to diagnose without changing it...why put in a 50 year old design when the better one is so cheap ? Even I have done this upgrade
With the 6 slots you have room for the main fuse and an auxiliary in all in location.
Phil

[tomcos67]

How long has bike been exposed to possible vandalism?? Had it running .Then all of a sudden!!!! Water in crankcase not good for clutch.People knocking over bike.Thinking that might have to be addressed first..... Good luck .with that. Put camera out there.All kinds today.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there,

Well I agree with Trbig/Todd with regards to your needing to perform the Dremmel fix for your skipping 2nd gear, and do 1st while you're there. See the tech tip(s) in the Repair/Tranny section in the FORUMS menus.

Now, for the dissenting opinion regarding the washer swap part of this repair. I've done 3 of these fixes, and on mine, as well, in 2000. My first gear was skipping pretty bad and 2nd had just started to skip when I parked it in '92. Performed the Dremmel back/undercut/dovetail on the gears, 1st/4th and 2nd/5th dogs and slots, and put it back together in OEM configuration. It's been ~25K miles since then, and I hammer my first gear pretty consistently while riding... especially running the twisties in the mountains during the rallies. Lots of engine braking as well as strong throttle action, the occasional power wheelie, etc. and they are still holding strong...narry a hint of a skip. IMHO....if the undercut/backcut/dovetail is done effectively, that keeps the gear's dogs/slots engaging adequately...the pressure/torque on the gears actually pulls the gears closer to max dog/slot engagement...and so the washer is rather MOOT....again IMHO.

If you were to find a fairly unused unmolested low mileage engine that wasn't skipping, THEN doing the washer swap can help to provide deeper dog/slot engagement for 2nd/5th gears....which can "HELP" slow down and possibly prevent the otherwise eventual wearing/rounding of the edges of the dogs that allow them to finally slip apart/skip under load since the dogs are OEM straight cut!

Yamaha learned about the problem and in the subsequent replacement gears that they provided for this repair....they UNDERCUT/Dovetailed the dogs/slots at the factory....but they didn't provide a Service Tech Bulletin supplement about swapping the washer.

The shift drum pins washer is probably bentbroke, as well as your 5th gear pin falling out. The washer design was poor. Scott/3phase posted a recent thread about a way to repair it with a thick washer instead of trying to find the OEM one which is faulty and not very strong to begin with.

The fuseblock as stated has much stronger steel pressure clamps that hold and make contact with the newer ATCO style fuse pins vs. the old flimsy brass ones that liked to corrode and fail/break. Same for the use of the newer solid ATCO fuses vs the glass ones.

T.C.

[Hmar]

Thanks for the input, I did find a pin laying loose inside the cover when I took it off. I put it back in, and ran out of time. Hopefully tomorrow I can button it up and go for a ride. Tc, I do plan on buying the fuse block as soon as I satisfy myself that this bike can be saved (by me, I'm sure someone else could do it)
Thanks.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Hmar,

Well, I hope you either got a NEW star washer, or did the Washer MOD, and not just tried bending the old ones tang back into position, it won't hold, and that pin will eventually get pushed out again!

T.C.

[Hmar]

Hi TC, of course I just pushed it back in, I think we have established that I have no business taking a wrench to this thing!
I'll be looking into some new parts after christmas, things are a little too tigh right now.
Thanks for all the help, for now the bike is running.