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Cutting Down Fairing Windshield?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Ken Talbot View Post
    When you decide on a height, here's some ideas on how to do it:

    Cutting down a windshield
    Hey Ken,

    Somehow I don't remember seeing that post. I am also surprised about the use of a coarse blade vs., a fine blade. I understand your reasoning with regards to allowing the scurf/shield chips to be dispersed, and the slower cutting jig speed to reduce the friction heat build up to prevent melting. You did use the UP CUTTING BLADE which I agree is paramount to keep the shield steady and not bouncing.

    I used a finer toothed blade and a faster cutting action....but like you said, moved the saw slowly thru the material. I was concerned about a larger toothed blade making too much/deep of a bite that could contribute to excessive stress against the shield and cracking. I also didn't notice any kind of melting action of the scurf with the blade against the shield. Moving the saw slowly thru the material allowed a lot of air with the blade movement and also low heat due to low friction.

    SO...I guess the main thing is to move the saw slowly thru the material no matter which blade/jig speed one uses.

    T.C.
    T. C. Gresham
    81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
    79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
    History shows again and again,
    How nature points out the folly of men!

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    • #17
      Late as usual

      I did not respond to this as I was busy redoing a kitchen but now that I went out on my bike and reconfirmed some things I thought I'd put in my 2 cents. My bike a 1980 G has the original Yamaha Silver Bird II kit full fairing and bags made for Yamaha by Craig Vetter. It had replacement springs for front and rear to put in with dealer installation of the bags and fairing. It has a solid bolt on mount to the frame no pipe clamps.
      The fairing I have is full height but in appearance to others I have seen is at a slightly different angle. I am 5 ft 11 and sitting straight on the seat the top of the windshield hits near tree top of the distant horizon. I slid my hand up less than one inch above my helmet and hit turbulence and if I move a shoulder to the left or right I hit turbulence. I do end up viewing the road threw the windshield but if I cut mine down the wind would buffet my head and the rain would pound my helmet shield. Different fairing assemblies may be different but I warn against cutting the shield on some unless you are sure what your gain and loss is.
      When I redid the bike about 4 years ago the original windshield had severe scratches yellowing and what looked to be outer stress cracks. I refinished the shield starting with 300 wet sandpaper and polished it down to where it is very clear now. I caution anyone doing this speed is not a friend too fast you make a mess you have to be even and keep stepping up the grit to get to 2000. White polishing compound and a mix of talcum powder and in the end high quality plastic polish. If its cracked at the holes or anywhere on the edge abandon it.
      To fix the problem one should not make more assumptions than the minimum needed.

      Rodan
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khm6...liHntN91DHjHiS
      1980 G Silverbird
      Original Yamaha Fairfing and Bags
      1198 Overbore kit
      Grizzly 660 ACCT
      Barnett Clutch Springs
      R1 Clutch Fiber Plates
      122.5 Main Jets
      ACCT Mod
      Mac 4-2 Flare Tips
      Antivibe Bar ends
      Rear trunk add-on
      http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/viperron1/

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