XS11 electrical upgrade question

[crazy steve]

...Secondly they are very small in size...

Those are very likely designed for dwell control. That's the big reason they went to dwell control; they could reduce the physical size and the cost of the coils. But without the control, they'll overheat at slower speeds and burn out.

[Boneswig]

Got that. See that's why I like talking to you guys. Ok the golf module does the tach dwell. The golf has a similar pickup structure as the XS only it's built into the distributor. The distributor has a gap and each time the gap comes round it triggers the module to spark on the coil. Note I am not talking about a ignition amplifier, I am talking about a bottom range electronic ignition which was still used up to the last golf's produced. Ignition amplifier just boosts the actual spark where as the module is made for exactly the purpose we are using it in the xs. Only difference is on the golf there is one pickup and one coil where on the xs there's two pickups and 4 coils and 0 distributor.

[Boneswig]

GY6 coils are basically the same coils you find in your offroad bikes. Works on similar setup as the xs's but on a single pickup. I figured if it can take the strain of a single cylinder offroad, it should be able to take the strain on a single cylinder on an XS. It is used on ATV's as well. The 650 raptor runs on GY6 coils. But the coils over heating part is the reaon why I walked away from standard bosch car coils. All great, perfect ohm ratings, but overheating on idle is the problem. Saw that happen on an ATV before. A quick on the road repair that resulted in a huge failure. I'm not saying your wrong, please don't misunderstand me. I'm passing on the information as I have it and basically checking if I missed something somewhere. It's always better to have more than one person looking at a problem since one might spot a problem the other is missing.

[Boneswig]

Home, finally. Ok here is the pinout I spoke of. The module is called a TP100 module. With the heatsink facing up, pins are from right to left.

Pin1 - signal to coil negative
Pin2 - Earth
Pin3 - Hall sender negative
Pin4 - Ignition Power positive
Pin5 - hall sender positive
Pin6 - Signal from Gotech box
Pin7 - rev counter

So it is fairly simple and straight forward

Pin1 goes to the coil (negative)
Pin2 goes to the frame
Pin3 goes to pickup
Pin4 goes to ignition (positive)
Pin5 left open
Pin6 goes to pickup

Pin 7 is the tricky part. Since you have two pickups, you need two modules. Running the rev counter on a single module wil give you half the reading. Two standard black diodes fixes this problem. Solder the diodes so that the little white line faces the modules. Then after the diodes, join the two wires. This wil prevent the one module return feeding the other module. The single wire from the two then goes to your rev counter.

Remember that each module has his own pickup. So don't connect both modules to a single pick up. And then it is one coil per module. You might have to play aroun a bit to see that you have 1 and 4 and 2 and 3 sparking at the right time. If it doesn't start and front and back fires alot, swop your pickup wires. And she will purr like a kitten.

Hope it helps.