Starter Solenoid Corrosion...source?

[madmax-im]

In my previous thread on starter issues I was having ...it was resolved that the issues resided in the solenoid...which Mark and I dis-assembled and cleaned up all the electrical contacts...So now the electric starter fires right up and problem is solved right????
Well according to randy he did this 10 years ago too...but is telling me the pitted contacts are due to possibly its running too hot electrically speaking...and to check all the connections...battery cables...grounds , and the torque of the bolts that hold the starter to the engine...
All have been checked and everything is tight as it should be...
I have also noticed that up until I got a new gel battery about a 1.5 yrs ago that the starter issues never appeared... The first time I experienced the dead starter button it was only momentary dead...just long enough of a hesitation to be noticeable but then it would start right away..So at first I ignored it but over time it became worse....
So heres the question.....Is it possible that the Gel battery is responsible for running the solenoid too hot?... or is it likely that in 10 years since Randy was in there before me that its a "natural" occurance over time???...

[Old Red]

A weak battery will damage the solenoid. A fully charged battery will pull the solenoid contacts tighter together for better currant flow. With a fully charged battery the starter turns faster and draws fewer amps. Fewer amps = less load on solenoid contacts.

[madmax-im]

Thanks Earl...my thoughts now are that the old battery is that required maintainence and was never maintained properly by me....and by its own nature was a weak battery prolly before I took posession of the bike and my own lack of attention to maintainence contributed to the corrosion?

[crazy steve]

I seriously doubt that the battery had very much to do with the problem. It takes relatively little current to pull the solenoid in, if you had enough to spin the starter you had plenty for the solenoid. The solenoid contacts themselves are probably another story.

Contacts will pit over time in any case, just how fast that happens depends on multiple factors. And once they start pitting, that causes a poorer connection/higher current and starts a vicious circle. How well did Randy clean them last time? How bad were they then? How well did you clean them this time? Copper is only a medium-duty contact material (silver is the best) and solenoid design plays into it. The XS solenoid needs a clean, dead flat contact surface for best contact, merely wire brushing/sanding the surface until it's shiny won't ensure a proper surface. For best results, both contacts should be filed/sanded smooth and dead flat with all low spots/pits removed. One thing that should be noted, if very much material is removed the stationary contact should be shimmed closer to the other to make up the difference.

If you suspect that any of the connections are suspect, checking for resistance and/or voltage drop wouldn't hurt. This is a high-current circuit, so even small amounts are magnified. A .1 ohm 'extra' resistance at 2 amps will drop .2 volt, at 90 amps (about what the XS starter draws), you've now lost 9 volts.

[madmax-im]

Thanks Steve,thats the most definitive answer yet...I havent a clue how Randy cleaned them up or how bad they were...we didnt do exactly what you describe in assuring all the contacts were even....but they were all cleaned with emory cloth...
Where do I check for resistance and voltage drop? I hate electrical crap...

[3Phase]

Like everyone else loves electrical stuff....

To measure the solenoid contact resistance, disconnect the battery and the starter from the solenoid, then measure the resistance across the solenoid terminals when the Start button pressed. Unless it's totally fried you probably won't see much with a regular handheld meter, especially for anything less than one Ohm.

With home gear, you'd do better with a good battery and measuring the voltage drop across the solenoid terminals when the starter is cranking the the engine. You want to see a drop of no more than a tenth of a Volt:-

http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm

It's easy, have fun and don't worry!

.

[DAVINCI]

Well, gee, i didn't consult a laboratory when I cleaned it, but I must have done a miserable job, it only lasted 10 freakin years

[3Phase]

Well, gee, i didn't consult a laboratory when I cleaned it, but I must have done a miserable job, it only lasted 10 freakin years

Really! No lab work or even a quick consultation? What a Slacker!

.

[madmax-im]

well i'm prolly good for another 10 years...