Steering head bearing?

[OMCC]

So I took my bike in for inspection today and while it passed he did bring to my attention a few things I need to look into most importantly the steering head is a bit sticky. not terrible but not smooth he said he could fail it for it but he seemed to think it was at least safely drivable.

My question is: does anyone have a tutorial for replacing or regreassing this bearing?

[DiverRay]

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...g+stem+bearing
This should help. I just used the "search" feature, but I DID need to weed through some junk to find a good thread.

[crazy steve]

Probably never been repacked....

To do both the top and bottom bearings you'll need to pull the forks completely off the bike. A lot of guy will just replace but I've rarely found a set that a good cleaning won't bring back. Discoloration of the bearings/races won't hurt, smashed rollers (from overtightening) or rust pitting is bad. If the bearings are bad, new ones are fairly inexpensive but getting the lower bearing off the stem and the races out of the frame is a PITA. Easiest method for removing the races is run a weld bead on them; when the weld cools and shrinks they fall out. A big hammer and chisel is needed for the lower stem bearing, or cut it with a dremel tool.

Fork alignment is here: http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...fork+alignment

Bearing pre-load after repacking/replacing. I use the 'fallaway' method and it goes like this; do the fork alignment as above, but don't tighten the upper tree. Remove the top tree and lay it on the tank and make there's nothing impeding free movement of the forks left/right. With the front wheel off the ground and pointing straight ahead, remove all noticeable play by tightening the lower stem nut. Push the wheel one way or the other. You should be able to push the wheel about 1/2-3/4" either way from center before the wheel 'falls away' to full lock. Less than this, the bearing is loose. More, it's too tight. Tighten the second stem (jam) nut and reinstall the top tree and check again. Because of the Yamaha design, you may have to do this several times because when you torque the stem nut it tends to reduce the play. Try for less fallaway (1/4-1/2") on the initial preload set, check for the larger amount after.

[jetmechmarty]

I believe this is the tool for removing the lower bearing.

$45 at Harbor Freight.

[BA80]

Removing the rollers isn't the hard part, getting the races out of the frame is. The best way I have found is to cut them with a dremel so they can be cracked. then they almost fall out.

Most cases of sticky steering head bearing I've run across is rust pits in the races and/or the rollers themselves.

New bearings are relatively cheap and smooth steering makes a world of difference in the handling.

[jetmechmarty]

Greg,

Will that tool not pull the inner race? I thought it would do the job.

[BA80]

Nope. The lower race in the neck is a total BITCH to get out.

You've never done one?

[jetmechmarty]

You've never done one?

Yes. I did it with a chisel and it was no fun. I hoping maybe I did it wrong. I guess not.

[bikerphil]

If you snip the cage off the lower bearing, the bearing splitter can be used with long bolts/allthread attached to the puller. Put the bearing splitter below the top spacer lip. There is no room below the bearing due to the steering stop tabs. Then you have a nifty spacer left over to install the new bearing.

[IanDMacDonald]

I've been riding my other bikes because I know my bike needs this done, and I'm avoiding the headache of doing it (the steering is getting wobbly in the turns).

[OMCC]

I believe this is the tool for removing the lower bearing.

$45 at Harbor Freight.

I bought this one when I did my wheel bearing will it work or will I need the one you posted as well

http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-h...ler-95987.html

[jetmechmarty]

Your puller will pull wheel bearings. You may have to use a chisel to remove the lower steering bearing. Search YouTube for the process. You'll find help there.