Help with carbs, have pics

[mrhammer2u]

Since I've had my carbs rebuilt (over winter) I've run my bike every week and she's run like a champ. This time it's been 3 weeks and now I'm having issues. Started her up today and she was spitting, sputtering, back firing and little power at WOT. After about 15 minutes she ran a bit better and had more power but still back firing and not 100%. My carb does leak gas (seems like only the 1st carb, very left as your sitting on bike, leaks tho) when parked for a while....but only sometimes. When she does leak there is a trail of gas from the carb, down the engine to the floor. This is the 1st time I've seen what looks to be oil residue in the leakage path.

I did not do my carbs and have zero experience with them. So who knows what my mechanic "actually" did or was "qualified" to do. Obviously he did not rebuild them properly but the bike has been running great despite the slow leak which I was happy to ignore until later in the season when I can bring her in for more service.

Here are some pics: (I know I know,...don't bust my balls about the stacks)

Never had THIS MUCH oil in the stack


I noticed the nipple on this carb was gone. Does this being open cause any problems? What is it?


Of course this is a weekend we plan to go for a whole weekend ride....ugh!!!

[kboehringer]

Get a pack at plugs at AutoZone!

I noticed the nipple on this carb was gone. Does this being open cause any problems? What is it?

MrHammer,
I won't attempt to answer all of your questions but the missing cover on the nipple is a SIGNIFICANT issue. It's probably about $1 to fix. That port is used to check the vacuum and sync. the carbs. It must be covered or you have a severe air leak. Any of the big auto parts stores should have a little kit of rubber air line plugs you can use to plug it off. I would check all the others (3) as if this one deteriorated and fell off the others are like in the same poor condition. Replace them all it'll only cost a couple bucks.

You might find that plugging that air leak solves many of the issues you've mentioned.

Sincerely,
Kurt

[mrhammer2u]

Thanks Kurt. Do I need to re-sync after I plug it?

[kboehringer]

RE-Snyc?

Thanks Kurt. Do I need to re-sync after I plug it?

MrHammer,
I kinda assume that the plug rotted away after the sync was done. You said it ran well and began to act poorly? I suspect it started running like poooo when the cap fell off.

I wouldn't think you'd need to re-sync the carbs. You'll likely find the bike runs great with that huge air leak addressed.

Kurt

[DiverRay]

If you have the gauges, it doesn't hurt. The sync should NOT have changed, but it will change over time. The "oil" is probably gas residue caused from not turning off the fuel when parking. Your #1 may also be just a tad high on the fuel level, but you need to pull the carbs to check, and then you WILL need to re-sync.
As Kurt said, the #1 issue is the bad vacuum caps. ALL the stock caps on the XS1100's are BAD by now from age, and should be replaced. JMHO

[mrhammer2u]

That was it Kurt. $3 at pep boys. I had to buy an assortment. running like a champ again. Thanks all

[MPittma100]

Fuel Leak

You still need to address/fix the fuel leak. A fuel leak is NOT acceptable, not even a little one, due to the engine damage that can occur. Did I mention fire hazard to bike and rider?

Fuel leaking out of the carb(s) can go directly into the crankcase and mix with the engine oil. Check your oil and verify that there is no gas in it. If there is, change oil and filter ASAP.

While waiting to repair carburetor, put a 2X4 or equivalent under the front tire when bike is parked. This will prevent the fuel from getting into the oil. If you plan to ride it like it is, keep a fire extinguisher on the bike.

[Ken Talbot]

Fuel leaking from the carb is a sign that the float valve is not working properly. It is also a sign that the "octopus" is also not working properly.

Being a Special, you can get in the habit of turning off the petcocks and your leak should disappear. If you do this, just remember that both the float valves and the octopus are still defective and should be fixed - the petcock "off" is only a stopgap measure.